The Bikes

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The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.

It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.

The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.

If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.

  • Rule #12 and the Cascade Effect That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, it ...
  • Guest Article: Black Is Not The New Black  @kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
  • Dialing in the Stable This was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
  • Matching the drapes to the rug As a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
  • Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the Hour Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...
  1. @Teocalli

    @chris

    @Teocalli

    I hadn’t spotted the flappy bit, or is it something in the background. @Fronk can’t be that sloppy.

    It’s defo a flappy bit.

    Think of the drag that flappy bit must create.




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  2. @Teocalli

    @chris

    @Teocalli

    I hadn’t spotted the flappy bit, or is it something in the background. @Fronk can’t be that sloppy.

    It’s defo a flappy bit.

    I’m not sure, it doesn’t look like it’s in focus despite everything else on that plane being in focus




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  3. @chris

    @Teocalli

    @chris

    @Teocalli

    I hadn’t spotted the flappy bit, or is it something in the background. @Fronk can’t be that sloppy.

    It’s defo a flappy bit.

    I’m not sure, it doesn’t look like it’s in focus despite everything else on that plane being in focus

    You can see the colour just at the end. The worrying part here is realising that Frauhnck has a limp, dangling, orange, flappy thing blowing in the wind.




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  4. @Teocalli

    @chris

    @Teocalli

    @chris

    @Teocalli

    I hadn’t spotted the flappy bit, or is it something in the background. @Fronk can’t be that sloppy.

    It’s defo a flappy bit.

    I’m not sure, it doesn’t look like it’s in focus despite everything else on that plane being in focus

    You can see the colour just at the end. The worrying part here is realising that Frauhnck has a limp, dangling, orange, flappy thing blowing in the wind.

    Lexicon Entry // Dutch Floppy/Frhonk’s Dutch Dangle




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  5. @chris

    @RobSandy

    Rob, I’m confused. Surely cleanliness is binary; it either is or it isn’t.

    Shades of grey are par for the course on a commuter. Of course, now it’s become a proper Nr.2 it will remain much cleaner and looked after than when it was just a commuter.

    Good to hear you’ve got it working although tightening something with the wrong tool sounds like a guaranteed way of not being able to loosen it in the future.

    I think it will be ok.




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  6. @Rick

    Valve stem and tire labels ? Though admittedly in this circumstance it works given the the tire, wheel, valve stem combo going on.

    @chris

    Oh man… that’s a good reminder that nothing needs be dangling off a bike.




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  7. @Randy C

    ….and the fact that he rides tubs!




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  8. @frank

    When did this place turn into facebook? Are we getting emojiis too?




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  9. My TIE-fighter’s here! I’m off to chase some Rebels up hills!




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  10. @Quasar

    My TIE-fighter’s here! I’m off to chase some Rebels up hills!

    Sweet. None more black.




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  11. @RobSandy

    @Quasar

    My TIE-fighter’s here! I’m off to chase some Rebels up hills!

    Sweet. None more black.

    Wow. I thought my #1 and #2 were black, both that’s a black bike! Nice!




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  12. @wiscot

    It looks like death!

    Oh, and slam your stem.




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  13. @wiscot

    @RobSandy

    @Quasar

    My TIE-fighter’s here! I’m off to chase some Rebels up hills!

    Sweet. None more black.

    Wow. I thought my #1 and #2 were black, both that’s a black bike! Nice!

    Cheers guys! I like to think of it as Sith black, with (six) Sith yellow eyes…




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  14. @RobSandy

    @wiscot

    It looks like death!

    Oh, and slam your stem.

    The stem will come down gradually. In this position the saddle to bars drop is almost exactly what a professional bike fit recommended on my other bike a couple of years ago. With quite a lot of riding (and some massage sessions) since then I’m sure I will be fine at least 5-8mm lower, maybe more, but I have to work up the courage to pull hard enough to loosen the stem first…




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  15. @Quasar

    You know I was only teasing.

    I’m working up the courage to cut 10mm off my steerer tonight. I had to drill out a top cap bolt (which was bad enough) to get the nut out (which had come loose). Next I have to take a hacksaw to my steed.

    Somehow, I only realised last night my bike has a carbon steerer. I was sure it was alloy.




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  16. @RobSandy

    @Quasar

    You know I was only teasing.

    Of course. That’s what we do here! But since this was the plan anyway I saw no reason not to answer it.

    As for cutting the steerer if the stem goes down far enough to warrant it, there is no way in Hell (or any other unpleasant place) I’m doing that myself. When there is any chance of permanent damage I getting pros to do it…




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  17. WTF!!!! It’s Thursday. The Giro starts on Saturday. Why can’t we post our picks?




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  18. @Quasar

    @Quasar

    You know I was only teasing.

    As for cutting the steerer if the stem goes down far enough to warrant it, there is no way in Hell (or any other unpleasant place) I’m doing that myself. When there is any chance of permanent damage I getting pros to do it…

    I used to think like that but I’ve started going for it more. I stripped all the cables off my commuter and re-cabled the lot (and fit some drop bars and brifters while I was at it), then set up the brakes and drive train myself. Nothing went disastrously wrong. I’ll post a pic because even though in the scheme of things it’s a piece of shit bike, I’m inordinately proud and love riding the thing.

    As for the steerer, it’s all fairly simple and I’m not cutting it down to remove all the spacers (I currently have about 20mm above the stem and that feels like too much). I think my chances of completely fucking it up are low. I’ll report back.




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  19. @RobSandy


    As for the steerer, it’s all fairly simple and I’m not cutting it down to remove all the spacers (I currently have about 20mm above the stem and that feels like too much). I think my chances of completely fucking it up are low. I’ll report back.

    They may not be as low as you think. First, put 1″ or more wide painter’s tape around the steerer tube where you want to make the cut and (obviously) mark on the tape where you want to make the cut. This will help prevent fibers from fraying. Second, you really need a jig and saw guide to lock the steerer tube in place and to ensure you get a completely straight/level cut. Fortunately, the shop my wife used to work for had this and I was able to use it when I cut my steerer tube. If you try to do it “by hand,” you actually do risk fucking it up.

    FWIW, I run two 10mm spacers above my stem because I ended up lowering my stem (now, no spacers under it and just the headset top cap but it’s a semi-tall top cap ~8mm) after about a year of riding on my original set up. The look of it has actually grown on me. But I’m also running a semi-longish -17 degree 120mm stem.




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  20. Different view/angle from same ride last Sunday in Ashland, VA.




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  21. @RobSandy

    @Quasar

    @Quasar

    You know I was only teasing.

    As for cutting the steerer if the stem goes down far enough to warrant it, there is no way in Hell (or any other unpleasant place) I’m doing that myself. When there is any chance of permanent damage I getting pros to do it…

    I used to think like that but I’ve started going for it more. I stripped all the cables off my commuter and re-cabled the lot (and fit some drop bars and brifters while I was at it), then set up the brakes and drive train myself. Nothing went disastrously wrong. I’ll post a pic because even though in the scheme of things it’s a piece of shit bike, I’m inordinately proud and love riding the thing.

    As for the steerer, it’s all fairly simple and I’m not cutting it down to remove all the spacers (I currently have about 20mm above the stem and that feels like too much). I think my chances of completely fucking it up are low. I’ll report back.

    It needs to be square – do you have a saw guide?




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  22. @Teocalli

    @RobSandy

    @Quasar

    @Quasar

    You know I was only teasing.

    As for cutting the steerer if the stem goes down far enough to warrant it, there is no way in Hell (or any other unpleasant place) I’m doing that myself. When there is any chance of permanent damage I getting pros to do it…

    I used to think like that but I’ve started going for it more. I stripped all the cables off my commuter and re-cabled the lot (and fit some drop bars and brifters while I was at it), then set up the brakes and drive train myself. Nothing went disastrously wrong. I’ll post a pic because even though in the scheme of things it’s a piece of shit bike, I’m inordinately proud and love riding the thing.

    As for the steerer, it’s all fairly simple and I’m not cutting it down to remove all the spacers (I currently have about 20mm above the stem and that feels like too much). I think my chances of completely fucking it up are low. I’ll report back.

    It needs to be square – do you have a saw guide?

    At the risk of sounding sloppy and giving bad advice, it doesn’t need to be absolutely square (though I do everything I can to ensure it is). The top of the steer tube will have a gap between it and the stem cap to allow tightening of the headset. This gives you a little bit of leeway with the cut. I’ve found that using a metal hose clamp on the steerer will act as a guide for a straight/square cut if you don’t have a saw guide. It also protects the steerer from getting scarred from a slipping saw should you have an ‘oops’ moment.




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  23. @Quasar

    My TIE-fighter’s here! I’m off to chase some Rebels up hills!

    Nice! Just in time for Star Wars Day.




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  24. @wiscot

    WTF!!!! It’s Thursday. The Giro starts on Saturday. Why can’t we post our picks?

    Actually, unless I am mistaken, it starts in about 16 hours, not Saturday, Mate!




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  25. @MangoDave

    @Teocalli

    @RobSandy

    @Quasar

    @Quasar

    You know I was only teasing.

    As for cutting the steerer if the stem goes down far enough to warrant it, there is no way in Hell (or any other unpleasant place) I’m doing that myself. When there is any chance of permanent damage I getting pros to do it…

    I used to think like that but I’ve started going for it more. I stripped all the cables off my commuter and re-cabled the lot (and fit some drop bars and brifters while I was at it), then set up the brakes and drive train myself. Nothing went disastrously wrong. I’ll post a pic because even though in the scheme of things it’s a piece of shit bike, I’m inordinately proud and love riding the thing.

    As for the steerer, it’s all fairly simple and I’m not cutting it down to remove all the spacers (I currently have about 20mm above the stem and that feels like too much). I think my chances of completely fucking it up are low. I’ll report back.

    It needs to be square – do you have a saw guide?

    At the risk of sounding sloppy and giving bad advice, it doesn’t need to be absolutely square (though I do everything I can to ensure it is). The top of the steer tube will have a gap between it and the stem cap to allow tightening of the headset. This gives you a little bit of leeway with the cut. I’ve found that using a metal hose clamp on the steerer will act as a guide for a straight/square cut if you don’t have a saw guide. It also protects the steerer from getting scarred from a slipping saw should you have an ‘oops’ moment

    I may be misinterpreting you, if so then apologies, but I read this to mean that you cut the steerer tube so short that it doesn’t protrude all the way through the stem? I personally think this is wrong, and the steerer should be long enough to protrude beyond the stem, so the stem clamp is supported through its entire depth. Otherwise the stem clamp will exert crushing forces on the end of the steerer. You should fit a spacer above the stem onto which the headset cap is tightened. I also think the cut should be square, as if you want to get the lengths right and use a fairly thin spacer (3-5mm) then there’s not much room for a ragged or diagonal cut.

    Regarding the saw guide, you can buy a perfectly good one for about £15 that allows you to clamp the whole lot in a vice and get a perfectly square cut. It’s worth noting (assuming carbon steerer) that carbon saw ‘blades’ are in fact just strips of metal with an abrasive coating on the cutting edge, and are more susceptible to wandering about during the cut than a normal hacksaw blade cutting metal. Weigh this against the cost of a new fork, or the pain (or worse) of a face plant in the case of a steerer breaking…




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  26. @Geraint

    @MangoDave

    @Teocalli

    @RobSandy

    @Quasar

    @Quasar

    You know I was only teasing.

    As for cutting the steerer if the stem goes down far enough to warrant it, there is no way in Hell (or any other unpleasant place) I’m doing that myself. When there is any chance of permanent damage I getting pros to do it…

    I used to think like that but I’ve started going for it more. I stripped all the cables off my commuter and re-cabled the lot (and fit some drop bars and brifters while I was at it), then set up the brakes and drive train myself. Nothing went disastrously wrong. I’ll post a pic because even though in the scheme of things it’s a piece of shit bike, I’m inordinately proud and love riding the thing.

    As for the steerer, it’s all fairly simple and I’m not cutting it down to remove all the spacers (I currently have about 20mm above the stem and that feels like too much). I think my chances of completely fucking it up are low. I’ll report back.

    It needs to be square – do you have a saw guide?

    At the risk of sounding sloppy and giving bad advice, it doesn’t need to be absolutely square (though I do everything I can to ensure it is). The top of the steer tube will have a gap between it and the stem cap to allow tightening of the headset. This gives you a little bit of leeway with the cut. I’ve found that using a metal hose clamp on the steerer will act as a guide for a straight/square cut if you don’t have a saw guide. It also protects the steerer from getting scarred from a slipping saw should you have an ‘oops’ moment

    I may be misinterpreting you, if so then apologies, but I read this to mean that you cut the steerer tube so short that it doesn’t protrude all the way through the stem? I personally think this is wrong, and the steerer should be long enough to protrude beyond the stem, so the stem clamp is supported through its entire depth. Otherwise the stem clamp will exert crushing forces on the end of the steerer. You should fit a spacer above the stem onto which the headset cap is tightened. I also think the cut should be square, as if you want to get the lengths right and use a fairly thin spacer (3-5mm) then there’s not much room for a ragged or diagonal cut.

    Regarding the saw guide, you can buy a perfectly good one for about £15 that allows you to clamp the whole lot in a vice and get a perfectly square cut. It’s worth noting (assuming carbon steerer) that carbon saw ‘blades’ are in fact just strips of metal with an abrasive coating on the cutting edge, and are more susceptible to wandering about during the cut than a normal hacksaw blade cutting metal. Weigh this against the cost of a new fork, or the pain (or worse) of a face plant in the case of a steerer breaking…

    I’m keeping a 5-10mm spacer above the stem, which should eliminate the crushing problem of which you speak. I wrapped the steerer in duct tape (I tried masking tape but it wouldn’t stick), measured and marked where I wanted the cut (2-3mm below the top of the spacer), clamped a jubilee clamp (hose clamp) above and below the cut line then went at it. Nice, straight, level cut in exactly the right place.

    My headset is now all right and lovely again (I also discovered how to tighten the steerer nut today), and one spacer less. I was feeling so good about it I trimmed a bit off my commuters steerer too (metal in this case) to get rid of one annoying spacer.

    Easy.




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  27. @RobSandy

    I’m keeping a 5-10mm spacer above the stem, which should eliminate the crushing problem of which you speak. I wrapped the steerer in duct tape (I tried masking tape but it wouldn’t stick), measured and marked where I wanted the cut (2-3mm below the top of the spacer), clamped a jubilee clamp (hose clamp) above and below the cut line then went at it. Nice, straight, level cut in exactly the right place.

    My headset is now all right and lovely again (I also discovered how to tighten the steerer nut today), and one spacer less. I was feeling so good about it I trimmed a bit off my commuters steerer too (metal in this case) to get rid of one annoying spacer.

    Easy.

    Sounds good – very nice bit of improvisation with the jubilee clips too! My comments were intended as a counterpoint to MangoDave’s suggested approach, just saying that it’s not desirable to have the steerer below the top of the stem clamp.




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  28. @Geraint

    Sounds good – very nice bit of improvisation with the jubilee clips too! My comments were intended as a counterpoint to MangoDave’s suggested approach, just saying that it’s not desirable to have the steerer below the top of the stem clamp.

    I read the jubilee clamp suggestion somewhere, they were £1 each. I can think of various other uses too.

    I agree with you about cutting too low, I’ll make sure I keep a thin spacer above the stem for that purpose.




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  29. @RobSandy

    @Geraint

    Sounds good – very nice bit of improvisation with the jubilee clips too! My comments were intended as a counterpoint to MangoDave’s suggested approach, just saying that it’s not desirable to have the steerer below the top of the stem clamp.

    I read the jubilee clamp suggestion somewhere, they were £1 each. I can think of various other uses too.

    I agree with you about cutting too low, I’ll make sure I keep a thin spacer above the stem for that purpose.

    It’s a quality hack that is. Just developing the idea, you could clamp an old mudguard – fork bracket into one of the jubilee clips and grip it in a vice…




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  30. @Geraint

    I may be misinterpreting you, if so then apologies, but I read this to mean that you cut the steerer tube so short that it doesn’t protrude all the way through the stem? I personally think this is wrong, and the steerer should be long enough to protrude beyond the stem, so the stem clamp is supported through its entire depth. Otherwise the stem clamp will exert crushing forces on the end of the steerer. You should fit a spacer above the stem onto which the headset cap is tightened. I also think the cut should be square, as if you want to get the lengths right and use a fairly thin spacer (3-5mm) then there’s not much room for a ragged or diagonal cut.

    Regarding the saw guide, you can buy a perfectly good one for about £15 that allows you to clamp the whole lot in a vice and get a perfectly square cut. It’s worth noting (assuming carbon steerer) that carbon saw ‘blades’ are in fact just strips of metal with an abrasive coating on the cutting edge, and are more susceptible to wandering about during the cut than a normal hacksaw blade cutting metal. Weigh this against the cost of a new fork, or the pain (or worse) of a face plant in the case of a steerer breaking…

    OK, just so people don’t take me as being too casual to the point of carelessness — I only meant to suggest that there isn’t a need to be so perfectly square that only NASA engineers are capable of doing it. With some care and some reasonably good shop tools, it’s something that can easily be done yourself. If you (generic “you”, not you specifically) can’t get it square enough that a 3-5mm spacer won’t fit correctly, then you probably need to take it to a professional shop or invest in better tools. I’m suggesting that a half millimeter or so won’t make a difference. It doesn’t matter if the spacer is on top of the stem and the steerer goes all the way through the stem, there’s still a small gap between the top of the steerer and the stem cap inside the spacer. If not, the headset won’t tighten properly. I’ve done enough of these over the years without any issues that I’m confident that I’m doing it correctly. Maybe I’m not explaining it properly, though.




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  31. @Geraint

    @RobSandy

    I’m keeping a 5-10mm spacer above the stem, which should eliminate the crushing problem of which you speak. I wrapped the steerer in duct tape (I tried masking tape but it wouldn’t stick), measured and marked where I wanted the cut (2-3mm below the top of the spacer), clamped a jubilee clamp (hose clamp) above and below the cut line then went at it. Nice, straight, level cut in exactly the right place.

    My headset is now all right and lovely again (I also discovered how to tighten the steerer nut today), and one spacer less. I was feeling so good about it I trimmed a bit off my commuters steerer too (metal in this case) to get rid of one annoying spacer.

    Easy.

    Sounds good – very nice bit of improvisation with the jubilee clips too! My comments were intended as a counterpoint to MangoDave’s suggested approach, just saying that it’s not desirable to have the steerer below the top of the stem clamp.

    No, that’s not my suggested approach. You are correct, make sure the steerer goes all the way through.




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  32. @MangoDave

    Clearly I did misinterpret you, so apologies again. Sounds like we’re all on the same page here.




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  33. @Geraint

    @MangoDave

    Clearly I did misinterpret you, so apologies again. Sounds like we’re all on the same page here.

    No apologies necessary. If you misunderstood me, chances are someone else might, also. I rather clarify than spread misinformation. Cheers!




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  34. @MangoDave

    @Quasar

    My TIE-fighter’s here! I’m off to chase some Rebels up hills!

    Nice! Just in time for Star Wars Day.

    Best May the Fourth I can remember having!




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  35. Enduringly the #1 bike – British-made Engima Esprit Ti. SRAM Red and tubs on Zipp 303s. Silk. All-up weight of just over 7kg. And the sweetest love.




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  36. @MangoDave

    I only meant to suggest that there isn’t a need to be so perfectly square that only NASA engineers are capable of doing it.

    But it does take people who have English as a first language (and PhD) to understand it. They say a picture speaks louder than a 1k words, so please can you post a pic what you are trying to say? Thanks (am really keen to understand it; I equally struggle with the Rule explanation on cable length/routing.)




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  37. @Quasar

    Man I love black bikes. And that black bike is blacker than my black bikes.

    @Monty Stubble

    Sweet Ti bike. Very.

    @chuckp

    And that Felt is dressed up just right for this time of year!




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  38. Someone here once described using latex tubes as something along the lines of secretly going about with frilly pink underpants… that thought’s always cracked me up. And it being summer time, and time to remove the winter tires, I spent a little time this am stuffing some cotton gum walls with frilly pink underpants. Good fun and makes for a great ride. Cheers all




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  39. @Randy C

    Someone here once described using latex tubes as something along the lines of secretly going about with frilly pink underpants… that thought’s always cracked me up. And it being summer time, and time to remove the winter tires, I spent a little time this am stuffing some cotton gum walls with frilly pink underpants. Good fun and makes for a great ride. Cheers all

    Agree latex tubes provide a great ride. Those look like carbon rims, though, so be careful if you’ll be doing much downhill braking. (Or are those disc wheels?)




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  40. @Randy C

    Someone here once described using latex tubes as something along the lines of secretly going about with frilly pink underpants… that thought’s always cracked me up. And it being summer time, and time to remove the winter tires, I spent a little time this am stuffing some cotton gum walls with frilly pink underpants. Good fun and makes for a great ride. Cheers all

    Is that bottom spoke pulling through the rim, or an illusion?




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  41. @Skip

    @fignons barber

    That’s a carbon fairing. These are HED’s Jet 4 wheels. Box rim alloy with C fairing. I use the + version of HED’s Ardennes and Jets and love ’em. Cheers




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  42. @Randy C

    Indeed. Latex does it for me.

    Interesting to read what Continental’s Mark Turner said to CW last year though: “For the pros we put latex tubes into our Competition Pro tubulars, however for consumers, there isn’t a latex tube that meets Continental’s minimum safety standards. With heavy braking, such as while descending, you can cook the wheel rim and high temperatures can cause a latex tube to burst.” He concludes with the understatement: “Latex tube failure at 60mph could be life-changing.”

    http://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/product-news/latex-inner-tubes-worth-hassle-282066

    So, it’s Vittoria and FMBs for me – and no descending at 100kmh either.




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  43. @Randy C

    @Skip

    @fignons barber

    That’s a carbon fairing. These are HED’s Jet 4 wheels. Box rim alloy with C fairing. I use the + version of HED’s Ardennes and Jets and love ’em. Cheers

    OK. Enjoy the supple ride, then. Rubber side down! (Rule #49 and all that.)




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  44. @Monty Stubble

    @Randy C

    Indeed. Latex does it for me.

    Interesting to read what Continental’s Mark Turner said to CW last year though: “For the pros we put latex tubes into our Competition Pro tubulars, however for consumers, there isn’t a latex tube that meets Continental’s minimum safety standards. With heavy braking, such as while descending, you can cook the wheel rim and high temperatures can cause a latex tube to burst.” He concludes with the understatement: “Latex tube failure at 60mph could be life-changing.”

    http://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/product-news/latex-inner-tubes-worth-hassle-282066

    So, it’s Vittoria and FMBs for me – and no descending at 100kmh either.

    Well the fastest I believe I’ve every gone is around 52 mph I garmin’d in a race descent a few years back and that speed was hit briefly and total descent was probably no more than minute. Highest elevation in Alabama is around 2400′ and any bombing down Alabama “mountains” happens real fast before it turns back up. And w/alloy rims too I suspect the only thing getting cooked on a bike ride will be me ! and for sure not the tubes.

    I will note that I’ve witnessed a C wheel burst (delaminate?) at bottom of a particularly steep descent here in town. BOOM was like a shotgun. There were more than a few of us accumulating at the bottom of a 2k straight uphill TT when this guy just was getting to bottom and like I said, BOOM across the parking lot. Brand new wheel set too. It was hot. Literally.

    Cheers




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  45. @KogaLover

    @MangoDave

    I only meant to suggest that there isn’t a need to be so perfectly square that only NASA engineers are capable of doing it.

    But it does take people who have English as a first language (and PhD) to understand it. They say a picture speaks louder than a 1k words, so please can you post a pic what you are trying to say? Thanks (am really keen to understand it; I equally struggle with the Rule explanation on cable length/routing.)

    I can try to take a picture, but it might be difficult. Most of what I was describing is hidden inside/under the headset cap. Look at the “spazio necessario” arrow…

    Image result for aheadset diagram

    You can see for yourself if you remove the cap. Look down and you should be able to see the top of the steerer tube recessed below the top of the spacer by a couple of millimeters or so (assuming there’s a spacer on top of your stem). That gap is important because it allows the compression forces of the stem cap to be directed through the spacer and ultimately the stem/headset assembly to allow proper tightening. The facing of the spacer top and bottom absolutely needs to be parallel (i.e., square, perpendicular to the steer tube length) for even pressure to be applied. The top of the steer tube is not in contact with the cap, so there are no compression forces pushing down on it. (There are clamping forces from the stem, but that’s different.) Thus, any *slight* variance in the steer tube cut by a reasonably competent home mechanic won’t affect the distribution of force by the cap assembly.

    OK, I started to get technical again – a result of my chemistry and engineering background. I’m sure most people have already (or should) skip over my entire comment and just go for a ride.




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  46. @KogaLover

    @MangoDave

    (am really keen to understand it; I equally struggle with the Rule explanation on cable length/routing.)

    You’re trying to get me in trouble, aren’t you? First, my casual comment about steer tubes necessitated a lot of clarification, including the above response. Now I may have to confess to not agreeing with details of Rule #73. I like to keep them short, nicely arced, but long enough not to bind up when turning. However, I don’t like both cables routed under the tape along the front of the handlebar. If you examine the Campa brake hood design, one cable exits perfectly aligned with the rear of the handlebar, the other perfectly aligned with the front. It also happens that my handlebar has two cable grooves front/back for this very purpose.




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  47. @MangoDave

    Thanks for the stem-pic!

    I was not suggesting or asking for a picture of your cables’ routing. Only from/for stem-saw-off clarification. I merely referred to the cable-routing-saga as yet another Rule where I sometimes struggle to really understand the English, ie transform words into a picture. Add to that the fact that in UK, the brakingcables are reversed (normal: left brake=front wheel for me, but in UK is other way around) and hence chaos emerges in my OCD (optimal cable desire) brain.




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  48. @chuckp

    Looks crisp.

    Only, if it was me – that front light would be fixed the other way up, shining from underneath the bar!

    Tidier and more out-of-the-way IMO – including, for the clip mount when the unit is removed.




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  49. @Randy C

    @chuckp

    And that Felt is dressed up just right for this time of year!

    Thanx! If you’re referring to the lights … I’ve decided that function/safety take precedence over any of The Rules. Especially if I’m riding solo somewhere I don’t really know. Even during the day, I’d rather have bright blinky lights (the front is 700 ions and the rear is supposed to be visible from 2km away) to help cars see me.




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  50. @richardplondon

    @chuckp

    Looks crisp.

    Only, if it was me – that front light would be fixed the other way up, shining from underneath the bar!

    Tidier and more out-of-the-way IMO – including, for the clip mount when the unit is removed.

    I agree, but there really isn’t room to mount it upside down with the brake/derailleur cable housing running on the underside of the bar. The “perfect” solution is an add-on accessory to my BarFly mount that allows you to attach a light underneath the Garmin. You may have given me a reason to go ahead and do that!




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