The Bikes

The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.

It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.

The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.

If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.

  • Rule #12 and the Cascade EffectRule #12 and the Cascade Effect
    That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, ...
  • Guest Article: Black Is Not The New BlackGuest Article: Black Is Not The New Black
     @kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
  • Dialing in the StableDialing in the Stable
    This was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
  • Matching the drapes to the rugMatching the drapes to the rug
    As a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
  • Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the HourFestum Prophetae: Waiting for the Hour
    Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...

15,871 Replies to “The Bikes”

  1. @Rick

    I’ve used a soft bag a bunch of times and the only issue I had was self inflicted – I left a couple of tools loose in the bag which ended up scratching the bike. Nowadays, the tools either travel in separate bags or in the bike bag pocktes.

    As an extra precaution, I use foam pipe insulation to cover the frame tubes and remove the bars and rear mech. The rear mech also gets wrapped in bubble wrap.

    CylcingTips did an article on the advantages of sort bags over hard boxes a year or so ago. I’m not sure how much truth there was in it but it may be worth a look.

    One of the advantages of a sort bag like mine is that it’s pretty easy to put on the roof of a rental car withour needing a roof rack. The bag has zipped slots for straps so sit the bag on the roof pass the straps though the slots in the bag but under the bike and through the open doors of the car, tighten the straps, get in, close the doors and drive off. You can also place a towel between the bag and the rood to stop it slipping and provide a bit of protection. You may even want to do this out of sight of the rental guys although in Spain they didn’t seem to give a shit.

  2. Having travelled a lot with my bike I would never use anything but a hard case.

    I’ve used a SciCon for 4 years and done probably 30 trips with it – lots between Dubai and London and various spots in Europe but also places that would be high on a danger list for bikes like Mumbai, Rio de Janeiro and South Africa.

    I never have even a momentary heart flutter when it disappears down the luggage belt. Bike Box Alan are also very good, or B&W. I like the SciCon and Alan because there’s basically only one way to pack the bike – if you don’t do it a lot it helps to not be able to fuck it up !

    I haven’t used American airlines but even my hard case with a small tool bag and shoes/helmet weighs in around 22kg. Most luggage allowances are 30kg so if you can stick within that then you’re OK.

  3. https://cyclingtips.com/2016/06/flying-with-your-bike-tips-from-a-baggage-handler/

    https://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/bikes-public-transport/bikes-air

    The second link has airline sample carriage pricing.

    Most recently I borrowed a solid box similar to the Serfus the thing was build like a tank but the problem was that the wheels were across the long width of the box.  So wheeling it through the airport and subsequently by train on arrival the thing was a bit of a mare.  So my lesson learned on that one is to get something easy to wheel in crowded spaces and get on/off trains if you are likely to be travelling that way.

  4. @teocalli

    https://cyclingtips.com/2016/06/flying-with-your-bike-tips-from-a-baggage-handler/

    https://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/bikes-public-transport/bikes-air

    The second link has airline sample carriage pricing.

    Most recently I borrowed a solid box similar to the Serfus the thing was build like a tank but the problem was that the wheels were across the long width of the box. So wheeling it through the airport and subsequently by train on arrival the thing was a bit of a mare. So my lesson learned on that one is to get something easy to wheel in crowded spaces and get on/off trains if you are likely to be travelling that way.

    0

    What a surprise, it’s triathletes who cause the most problems.

    Can’t they do anything properly?

  5. @RobSandy

    Nice piece by the baggage handler. I’s been a while since I trusted a bike to baggage handlers, but I used a pretty thin nylon bike bag (hey, it was 1989!) and no harm came. That being said I lagged the bike in foam piping, removed pedals, bars, seatpost and rear derailleur.

    If you use and kind of non-hardshell case, why would you not dismantle the bike as much as possible? Taking out the seatpost, removing the bars and pedals seem like no-brainers and with some previously applied tape on the seatpost and a couple of tools, you’re soon in business upon your arrival. Unless, your technical ability is below competent . . .

  6. I’m glad this thread started, just discovered there’s a guy who rents Bike Alan boxes about 2 miles down the road from me.  So sorted for next season.  Plans so far:

    Strade Bianche

    RVV

    Anjou Velo Vintage

    Eroica Limburg

  7. @chris

    @Rick

    You might want to consider this as a budget but innovative option.

    0

    I saw this article and thought it was a fantastic solution. I have a bike carrier and feel comfortable with getting my steed packed. My problem is that it seems to be very expensive to transport across the Atlantic.

  8. Switching topics a little, I plan on gluing these in the next few days.  I haven’t used the Graphenes before, has anyone else?  Replacing Corsa CXIII.

  9. @MangoDave

    Yes, like @Teocalli, I’ve got G+ Open and tubulars. A great ride on both and so far they seem pretty durable. Although I haven’t ridden through a whole winter, the G+ Open showed no discomfort in ferrying my heft across the cobbles of the Ronde. They’ve replaced Paves and Open Paves.

    My only regret is not getting the tubulars in 28mm.

  10. @chris

    @MangoDave

    Yes, like @Teocalli, I’ve got G+ Open and tubulars. A great ride on both and so far they seem pretty durable. Although I haven’t ridden through a whole winter, the G+ Open showed no discomfort in ferrying my heft across the cobbles of the Ronde. They’ve replaced Paves and Open Paves.

    My only regret is not getting the tubulars in 28mm.

    0

    I’m running the opens right now and initially was thinking damn these are slow. They’d been used to replace some really sweet Speshy Turbo Cottons. But I do find that I like them well enough at higher pressures than I normally am accustomed to running. Probably because they’re 23’s. I super glued some cuts in the tread and closed ’em up as they’d occurred way to soon for me to consider chucking the tires. Cheers

  11. @Randy C

    @chris

    @MangoDave

    Yes, like @Teocalli, I’ve got G+ Open and tubulars. A great ride on both and so far they seem pretty durable. Although I haven’t ridden through a whole winter, the G+ Open showed no discomfort in ferrying my heft across the cobbles of the Ronde. They’ve replaced Paves and Open Paves.

    My only regret is not getting the tubulars in 28mm.

    0

    I’m running the opens right now and initially was thinking damn these are slow. They’d been used to replace some really sweet Speshy Turbo Cottons. But I do find that I like them well enough at higher pressures than I normally am accustomed to running. Probably because they’re 23’s. I super glued some cuts in the tread and closed ’em up as they’d occurred way to soon for me to consider chucking the tires. Cheers

    0

    Ditto to @Teocalli and @Chris – Corsa G+ on the training wheels and tubs on the race wheels, all in 25.

    Have just ordered Rubino for the winter bike though. I still have a Pave on the front with another season left in it – I’ll miss that when it’s gone.

    Randy are you using latex tubes? Corsas are noticeably better with them. I’m not particularly sensitive about tyres as a general rule but that’s a difference I really notice.

  12. @Randy C

    I’m running the opens right now and initially was thinking damn these are slow.

    0

    First time I ran them (and using latex tubes) I went out for a cruise and set PBs most of the way round and for a month or so was smashing PBs on every ride on #1.  The inference being that they genuinely seemed to ride faster.  Prior to that I had been running Schwalbe One.

  13. @Teocalli

    @Randy C

    I’m running the opens right now and initially was thinking damn these are slow.

    0

    First time I ran them (and using latex tubes) I went out for a cruise and set PBs most of the way round and for a month or so was smashing PBs on every ride on #1. The inference being that they genuinely seemed to ride faster. Prior to that I had been running Schwalbe One.

    0

    Any speed issues I have are nothing to do with the tyres. I’m just damn slow.

  14. @ChrisO

     

    Randy are you using latex tubes? Corsas are noticeably better with them. I’m not particularly sensitive about tyres as a general rule but that’s a difference I really notice.

    I bet you are right about that. And when they were on my daughter’s DA C35 wheel set we did use latex as the Vittoria stems are long enough. But when I swapped over to the Jet 4s I run on my CAAD I was feeling lazy about using the valve extenders and just used the Conti butyl tubes with 60mm stems. I ended up using the pink tubes under the Pave’s I mounted on the Ardennes for upcoming winter season dirt road riding.

    I just can’t get past idea of leaving the latex Vittoria presta valve open under the extender. I know I know… but, I’ve always filled the tube and removed the extender and closed the valve. I’ve been instructed to actually twist the valves beyond open to “lock” them open before installing the extenders over teflon tape and then just leave them there.

     

  15. @Randy C

    @ChrisO

    Randy are you using latex tubes? Corsas are noticeably better with them. I’m not particularly sensitive about tyres as a general rule but that’s a difference I really notice.

    I bet you are right about that. And when they were on my daughter’s DA C35 wheel set we did use latex as the Vittoria stems are long enough. But when I swapped over to the Jet 4s I run on my CAAD I was feeling lazy about using the valve extenders and just used the Conti butyl tubes with 60mm stems. I ended up using the pink tubes under the Pave’s I mounted on the Ardennes for upcoming winter season dirt road riding.

    I just can’t get past idea of leaving the latex Vittoria presta valve open under the extender. I know I know… but, I’ve always filled the tube and removed the extender and closed the valve. I’ve been instructed to actually twist the valves beyond open to “lock” them open before installing the extenders over teflon tape and then just leave them there.

    0

    Ah yes… I have been known to use a straw with a bit of blue tack in the end.

    But the elegant solution I employ now is to use extenders with the valve at the end, where you remove the core and put it in the end of the extension. It also solves the problem of not getting accurate pressure.

  16. @Teocalli

    @Randy C

    I’m running the opens right now and initially was thinking damn these are slow.

    0

    First time I ran them (and using latex tubes) I went out for a cruise and set PBs most of the way round and for a month or so was smashing PBs on every ride on #1. The inference being that they genuinely seemed to ride faster. Prior to that I had been running Schwalbe One.

    0

    I am running Schwalbe Ones currently so I know which to get next time.

  17. @ChrisO

    I fitted Conti GP4000s ii’s to my race bike (I think on a recommendation from someone here), and I’ve researched tyres for the new race bike, and assuming I’m going to run clinchers rather than tubs (which I think I’d prefer), most of the advice is that those tyres are some of the fastest available. So I guess I’ll stick with them.

    One of the things that puts me off tubular wheels is that 2nd hand (which is how I’m likely to buy) they tend to come with the tyres fitted so you’re kind of stuck with them. So you’ll see a pair of Plant X 60mm aero wheels (for example) with Gatorskins glued on. Doh.

    I’d also like to try latex tubes again; last time I tried I couldn’t get my pump to grip the valve stem. It popped off at about 80psi. Do I just need different tubes?

  18. @KogaLover

    @ErikdR @RobSandy

    Not promoting Twitter but cool to see my trackbike featuring on the velodrome’s site.

    https://twitter.com/offenerennbahn




    0

    Awesome.

    I had my first session back on the boards on Friday night. Love the speed. At the end of the session I discovered my saddle had dropped by about 1-2cms during the session. Might explain why I was so deep in the pain cave during the last drill (a team 10m TT).

  19. Anybody here interested in a 1950’s track bike restoration project? Someone from my club is selling this (I think he’ll be lucky to find a taker to be honest), but I thought I’d spread his net a little wider. I don’t know him or anything about him but he says he planned to do it himself but realised that the frame was to small for him and also he was struggling with the time.

    It’s a Gillot track bike and he’s selling with loads of period specific kit. If anyone is interested I can get more details.

  20. @RobSandy

    @ChrisO

    One of the things that puts me off tubular wheels is that 2nd hand (which is how I’m likely to buy) they tend to come with the tyres fitted so you’re kind of stuck with them. So you’ll see a pair of Plant X 60mm aero wheels (for example) with Gatorskins glued on. Doh.

    I’d also like to try latex tubes again; last time I tried I couldn’t get my pump to grip the valve stem. It popped off at about 80psi. Do I just need different tubes?

    0

    Just rip ’em off. I’d always rather ride tubs that I’ve put on myself anyway.

    For the latex tubes, were they Vittoria? They do have a smooth stem but it has a little bit of thread on the end. Seems to work OK on my Joe Blow but if the grip on your pump head isn’t strong then it might be a problem.

  21. @ChrisO

    @RobSandy

    @ChrisO

    One of the things that puts me off tubular wheels is that 2nd hand (which is how I’m likely to buy) they tend to come with the tyres fitted so you’re kind of stuck with them. So you’ll see a pair of Plant X 60mm aero wheels (for example) with Gatorskins glued on. Doh.

    I’d also like to try latex tubes again; last time I tried I couldn’t get my pump to grip the valve stem. It popped off at about 80psi. Do I just need different tubes?

    0

    Just rip ’em off. I’d always rather ride tubs that I’ve put on myself anyway.

    True, but then you’ve got to budget for a new set of tubs as well as the wheels. I’ve more or less decided to stick to clinchers.

    For the latex tubes, were they Vittoria? They do have a smooth stem but it has a little bit of thread on the end.

    Yep. My pump works fine on every other tube I’ve used but caused me huge problems with the latex tubes. Mind you, if I have deep section wheels I’ll need valve extenders anyway.

    Seems to work OK on my Joe Blow but if the grip on your pump head isn’t strong then it might be a problem.

    Ooh, missus.

     

  22. I’ve moved a few things around in the house recently, and we’ve been busy so my projects to build the new race bike and decorate the spare room are both on hold. So I thought it would make sense to store them together.

    Means every time I get to the top of the stairs I get to stare at this for a while.

    2 things also became clear.

    1. I’ve made a complete dogs dinner of getting the saddle level.

    2. The hoods are also pointing up a bit. Would you aim to get the stem/bars/hoods all level if possible? It seems to me that would be the most aesthetic option. Then the levers should be near to vertical. The option is to rotate the bars down.

  23. @RobSandy

    My rule of thumb is to set the bars such that viewed from the side the end of the drops is at right angles to the head tube.  I picked this up somewhere from one of the bar manufacturers instructions some time ago.  Might not be valid for all bar shapes thought I guess.

  24. @Teocalli

    @RobSandy

    My rule of thumb is to set the bars such that viewed from the side the end of the drops is at right angles to the head tube. I picked this up somewhere from one of the bar manufacturers instructions some time ago. Might not be valid for all bar shapes thought I guess.

    0

    Hmm, I guess I’m not far off that actually.

    And looking at it again the bars could do with rotating down a smidge to follow the same level as the stem, and the hoods down a smidge likewise. Just think that’s a good place to start.

    Hope I left enough slack in the housings.

  25. @RobSandy

    I’ve moved a few things around in the house recently, and we’ve been busy so my projects to build the new race bike and decorate the spare room are both on hold. So I thought it would make sense to store them together.

    Means every time I get to the top of the stairs I get to stare at this for a while.

    2 things also became clear.

    1. I’ve made a complete dogs dinner of getting the saddle level.

    2. The hoods are also pointing up a bit. Would you aim to get the stem/bars/hoods all level if possible? It seems to me that would be the most aesthetic option. Then the levers should be near to vertical. The option is to rotate the bars down.

    0

    Errr . . . the saddle has more slope than a ski hill! Is it a tricky clamp to fine tune? Some can be a bugger as they have notches/ridges and it always seems to be the case that one notch or another (in either direction) puts it too far up or down.

    Personally, I think the bars need to rotate down and the shifters moved up. But that’s a personal thing. That looks like a 120mm stem on there so that would shorten the reach on the drops.

    Good luck. If I was in your shoes, I’d prioritize the bike, but then I suspact you have other “constituents” to consider!

  26. @wiscot

    @RobSandy

    I’ve moved a few things around in the house recently, and we’ve been busy so my projects to build the new race bike and decorate the spare room are both on hold. So I thought it would make sense to store them together.

    Means every time I get to the top of the stairs I get to stare at this for a while.

    2 things also became clear.

    1. I’ve made a complete dogs dinner of getting the saddle level.

    2. The hoods are also pointing up a bit. Would you aim to get the stem/bars/hoods all level if possible? It seems to me that would be the most aesthetic option. Then the levers should be near to vertical. The option is to rotate the bars down.

     

    0

    Errr . . . the saddle has more slope than a ski hill! Is it a tricky clamp to fine tune? Some can be a bugger as they have notches/ridges and it always seems to be the case that one notch or another (in either direction) puts it too far up or down.

    Yup, hence my ‘dog’s dinner’ comment. It adjusts with a bolt at the front and a turny-wheel thing at the back. So you get the wheel where you think you want it but then tightening the bolt up pulls the nose down. I’ll sort it.

    Personally, I think the bars need to rotate down and the shifters moved up. But that’s a personal thing. That looks like a 120mm stem on there so that would shorten the reach on the drops.

    Well I think the tops of the hoods should be horizontal and the levers vertical however I have the bars. I’m looking for a long/low geo for this bike so rotating the bars down would help that as long as it doesn’t look too weird.

    Good luck. If I was in your shoes, I’d prioritize the bike, but then I suspact you have other “constituents” to consider!

    The wait to finish the bike is somewhat due to budget and somewhat due to deceit. I’ve told the Mrs I’ll finish it after my birthday, for which I’ve asked for cash/vouchers to buy the components I need. Of course, I couldn’t wait so already have all said components (apart from pedals and cages) sitting under my desk at work.
    Don’t need it til the Spring really.
    I’m also holding out some hope that something may have been arranged regarding race wheels for my birthday. A mechanic friend of mine is selling a set of Mavic Cosmic CLX’s (I think). 60mm deep section, exalith brake surface. They look the absolute balls.

     

  27. @RobSandy

    I’ve moved a few things around in the house recently, and we’ve been busy so my projects to build the new race bike and decorate the spare room are both on hold. So I thought it would make sense to store them together.

    Means every time I get to the top of the stairs I get to stare at this for a while.

    2 things also became clear.

    1. I’ve made a complete dogs dinner of getting the saddle level.

    2. The hoods are also pointing up a bit. Would you aim to get the stem/bars/hoods all level if possible? It seems to me that would be the most aesthetic option. Then the levers should be near to vertical. The option is to rotate the bars down.

    0

    fix the saddle, of course.  the bar/ brake scheme looks great.  you’ll likely rotate the whole assembly at the stem here and there as you get used to the bike, anyway, no?

  28. I’ll have a full review forthcoming for PEZ Cycling News, but my first impressions of Absolute Black oval chainrings that I installed yesterday after work and rode today (~34 miles) for the first time:

    1. The pedal stroke feels pretty normal. Not at all weird.

    2. If you’re a spinner, you can spin, spin, spin. I did several extended stretches at 100-110rpm. And some short stints at 130-140rpm.

    3. Standing climbing feels very fluid.

    4. No problems shifting, which can be a bugaboo with oval chainrings.

    5. They look badass!

    Note that Absolute Black makes both Dura Ace and Ultra chain ring bolt covers that give the crankset a more finished OEM look. I’m supposed to be getting a set. But in the meantime, riding with a more “industrial” look. One of my riding buddies likes this look and thinks I should just keep it. What do y’all think?

    Yes, I know my crankset is scratched.

    Supposed to do ~60 miles rouleur tomorrow, so we’ll see if my first impressions hold up.

  29. @RobSandy

     

    Now I know why you want to slam your stem. You have an extended height head tube. Even with the taller headset top piece and a 10mm spacer, my stem/bars are lower (relative to the top tube) on my Felt FC.

  30. @chuckp

    I have no idea why they designed an aggressive aero race bike with such a tall headtube. I think it’s higher than on my F75. It also came fitted with a 30mm high headset top cap!

    However, set up as you see it should be fine for me. And I’ll ride in the drops a lot.

  31. @RobSandy

    @ChrisO

    I fitted Conti GP4000s ii’s to my race bike (I think on a recommendation from someone here), and I’ve researched tyres for the new race bike, and assuming I’m going to run clinchers rather than tubs (which I think I’d prefer), most of the advice is that those tyres are some of the fastest available. So I guess I’ll stick with them.

    One of the things that puts me off tubular wheels is that 2nd hand (which is how I’m likely to buy) they tend to come with the tyres fitted so you’re kind of stuck with them. So you’ll see a pair of Plant X 60mm aero wheels (for example) with Gatorskins glued on. Doh.

    I’d also like to try latex tubes again; last time I tried I couldn’t get my pump to grip the valve stem. It popped off at about 80psi. Do I just need different tubes?

    0

    everybody i know is either a Conti rider, or a Vittoria rider.  i don’t think i know anybody with Michelins or Schwalbes currently fitted.

  32. I stick resolutely to Veloflex Master or Corsa on my best bike, they’re the best rolling tyre I’ve ever used. For my other bikes I’m less fussy but I will probably never fit Michelin again – those Pro models are absolute bastards to fit (although I’m not the most nimble/ strong fingered of people), especially at the roadside on a cold day. Tonight I’m fitting 28mm Conti 4 Seasons to the wheels on my old aluminium Angliru, and I’m quite excited to see how I get on with the wider tyres. Anybody used Conti 4 Seasons on tracks – I mean dust/ shale type routes (non-metalled roads) rather than muddy paths? Might try a few short stretches of off-road this autumn if the 28mm Contis are ok on “looser” surfaces.

  33. I shod Challenge Open Roubaix for Strada Bianche in the Spring and it was wet and pretty loose and slimy and they ran and gripped well – and I stayed upright.  So I was pretty pleased with how they stood up.  So we had everything from dry/wet/puddled roads to wet Strada bar the dust.  Hoping to try them on dusty Strada in the Spring……..

  34. @Teocalli

    I shod Challenge Open Roubaix for Strada Bianche in the Spring and it was wet and pretty loose and slimy and they ran and gripped well – and I stayed upright. So I was pretty pleased with how they stood up. So we had everything from dry/wet/puddled roads to wet Strada bar the dust. Hoping to try them on dusty Strada in the Spring……..

    0

    Never tried Challenge tyres. Are they all hand made? They never seem to attract the same levels of discounting that most of the other brands do.

  35. @Steve Trice

    @Teocalli

    I shod Challenge Open Roubaix for Strada Bianche in the Spring and it was wet and pretty loose and slimy and they ran and gripped well – and I stayed upright. So I was pretty pleased with how they stood up. So we had everything from dry/wet/puddled roads to wet Strada bar the dust. Hoping to try them on dusty Strada in the Spring……..

    0

    Never tried Challenge tyres. Are they all hand made? They never seem to attract the same levels of discounting that most of the other brands do.

    0

    Yes handmade in Thailand.

  36. @Cary

    @RobSandy

    @ChrisO

    I fitted Conti GP4000s ii’s to my race bike (I think on a recommendation from someone here), and I’ve researched tyres for the new race bike, and assuming I’m going to run clinchers rather than tubs (which I think I’d prefer), most of the advice is that those tyres are some of the fastest available. So I guess I’ll stick with them.

    One of the things that puts me off tubular wheels is that 2nd hand (which is how I’m likely to buy) they tend to come with the tyres fitted so you’re kind of stuck with them. So you’ll see a pair of Plant X 60mm aero wheels (for example) with Gatorskins glued on. Doh.

    I’d also like to try latex tubes again; last time I tried I couldn’t get my pump to grip the valve stem. It popped off at about 80psi. Do I just need different tubes?

    0

    everybody i know is either a Conti rider, or a Vittoria rider. i don’t think i know anybody with Michelins or Schwalbes currently fitted.

    0

    I became a 25mm Velo Flex believer last year w/ Vittoria latex. And then allroad tested 28mm S-Works Turbo {Gripton} w/ Vittoria latex – good flexibility, but not good flexibility w/ race speed.

  37. A good news story – I bought some rubber frame plugs to cover the holes for the internal housing routing through my new bike. I had to order them from Felt Europe and they were quite expensive for what they were. But there we go.

    DHL then made a complete balls of delivering it, consistently failing to take the parcel to where I wanted it to go (to a neighbour, to the local collection point, etc). Eventually I got them to hold it at the depot and I drove down and picked it up. I didn’t realise but the phone number I’d found to talk to DHL was a premium rate line, and in total the negotiations cost me another £25.

    Anyway, I mentioned this in am email to Felt and they have given me a £45 voucher to spend on their online shop. Trouble is, now I don’t really have anything to buy. A Felt jersey, or is that a bit overkill if you’re riding a Felt bike?

  38. @RobSandy

    A good news story – I bought some rubber frame plugs to cover the holes for the internal housing routing through my new bike. I had to order them from Felt Europe and they were quite expensive for what they were. But there we go.

    DHL then made a complete balls of delivering it, consistently failing to take the parcel to where I wanted it to go (to a neighbour, to the local collection point, etc). Eventually I got them to hold it at the depot and I drove down and picked it up. I didn’t realise but the phone number I’d found to talk to DHL was a premium rate line, and in total the negotiations cost me another £25.

    Anyway, I mentioned this in am email to Felt and they have given me a £45 voucher to spend on their online shop. Trouble is, now I don’t really have anything to buy. A Felt jersey, or is that a bit overkill if you’re riding a Felt bike?

    0

    Not felt, try wool or lycra instead

  39. @chris

    @MangoDave

    Yes, like @Teocalli, I’ve got G+ Open and tubulars. A great ride on both and so far they seem pretty durable. Although I haven’t ridden through a whole winter, the G+ Open showed no discomfort in ferrying my heft across the cobbles of the Ronde. They’ve replaced Paves and Open Paves.

    My only regret is not getting the tubulars in 28mm.

    0

     

     

    Just ordered the new Vittoria Corsa G+ Control tires. It’s Vittoria’s replacement for the Pave. Available in both tubular and clincher.

  40. Turns out the frame clearance on my front fork is not quite enough for a 28mm Conti 4 Season tyre (and the back’s a bit close tbh). Sadly I only found this out after fitting them, so if anybody is interested in a pair of 28mm Contis, fitted once but never ridden, they are available at a bargain price. On the plus side Sigma Sport are offering a pair of 25mm, plus 3 Continental tubes, for £70.00.

  41. @KogaLover

    @RobSandy

    A good news story – I bought some rubber frame plugs to cover the holes for the internal housing routing through my new bike. I had to order them from Felt Europe and they were quite expensive for what they were. But there we go.

    DHL then made a complete balls of delivering it, consistently failing to take the parcel to where I wanted it to go (to a neighbour, to the local collection point, etc). Eventually I got them to hold it at the depot and I drove down and picked it up. I didn’t realise but the phone number I’d found to talk to DHL was a premium rate line, and in total the negotiations cost me another £25.

    Anyway, I mentioned this in am email to Felt and they have given me a £45 voucher to spend on their online shop. Trouble is, now I don’t really have anything to buy. A Felt jersey, or is that a bit overkill if you’re riding a Felt bike?

    0

    Not felt, try wool or lycra instead

    0

    Funny guy. I laughed. I cried.

  42. @ChrisO

    @RobSandy

    Might as well just top it up and get another bike.

    0

    I think the new bike I haven’t built yet is probably enough new bikes.

    Might save it and put it towards a new seatpost – there’s a very small crack in the current one which apparently has never got any bigger. I might feel better with one without a crack in it at all – but they are £175 each!

  43. @fignons barber

    Just ordered the new Vittoria Corsa G+ Control tires. It’s Vittoria’s replacement for the Pave. Available in both tubular and clincher.

    0

    Intrigued to hear how you get on. Their website has them listed as very supple and very puncture-resistant, which sounds incredible in both senses of the word. Let us know.

  44. @Steve Trice

    I stick resolutely to Veloflex Master or Corsa on my best bike, they’re the best rolling tyre I’ve ever used. For my other bikes I’m less fussy but I will probably never fit Michelin again – those Pro models are absolute bastards to fit (although I’m not the most nimble/ strong fingered of people), especially at the roadside on a cold day. Tonight I’m fitting 28mm Conti 4 Seasons to the wheels on my old aluminium Angliru, and I’m quite excited to see how I get on with the wider tyres. Anybody used Conti 4 Seasons on tracks – I mean dust/ shale type routes (non-metalled roads) rather than muddy paths? Might try a few short stretches of off-road this autumn if the 28mm Contis are ok on “looser” surfaces.

    0

    Conti 4 Season GPs are my go-to tire.  i have ridden them in every condition, and i have found them to be ESPECIALLY good at sloppy wet gravel and chip and seal, even extending to steep and punchy climbs on those surfaces.  i have been assured that the standard GP4000 are even better, but i haven’t tried those in inclement conditions.

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