The Rules

We are the Keepers of the Cog. In so being, we also maintain the sacred text wherein lie the simple truths of cycling etiquette known as The Rules. It is in our trust to maintain and endorse this list.

The Rules lie at the beginning of The Path to La Vie Velominatus, not at the end; learning to balance them against one another and to welcome them all into your life as a Velominatus is a never-ending struggle waged between form and function as we continue along The Path towards transcension.

See also The Prophet’s Prayer.

  1. // Obey The Rules.
  2. // Lead by example.It is forbidden for someone familiar with The Rules to knowingly assist another person to breach them.1
  3. // Guide the uninitiated.No matter how good you think your reason is to knowingly breach The Rules, it is never good enough.
  4. // It’s all about the bike. It is, absolutely, without question, unequivocally, about the bike. Anyone who says otherwise is obviously a twatwaffle.
  5. // Harden The Fuck Up. 2,20
  6. // Free your mind and your legs will follow.Your mind is your worst enemy. Do all your thinking before you start riding your bike.  Once the pedals start to turn, wrap yourself in the sensations of the ride – the smell of the air, the sound of the tires, the feeling of flight as the bicycle rolls over the road.
  7. // Tan lines should be cultivated and kept razor sharp.Under no circumstances should one be rolling up their sleeves or shorts in an effort to somehow diminish one’s tan lines. Sleeveless jerseys are under no circumstances to be employed.
  8. // Saddles, bars, and tires shall be carefully matched.3Valid options are:

    Match the saddle to the bars and the tires to black; or

    Match the bars to the color of the frame at the top of the head tube and the saddle to the color of the frame at the top of the seat tube and the tires to the color where they come closest to the frame; or

    Match the saddle and the bars to the frame decals; or

    Black, black, black

  9. // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.Fair-weather riding is a luxury reserved for Sunday afternoons and wide boulevards. Those who ride in foul weather – be it cold, wet, or inordinately hot – are members of a special club of riders who, on the morning of a big ride, pull back the curtain to check the weather and, upon seeing rain falling from the skies, allow a wry smile to spread across their face. This is a rider who loves the work.
  10. // It never gets easier, you just go faster.As this famous quote by Greg LeMan tells us, training, climbing, and racing is hard. It stays hard. To put it another way, per Greg Henderson: “Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.” Sur la Plaque, fucktards.4
  11. // Family does not come first. The bike does.Sean Kelly, being interviewed after the ’84 Amstel Gold Race, spots his wife leaning against his Citroën AX. He interrupts the interview to tell her to get off the paintwork, to which she shrugs, “In your life the car comes first, then the bike, then me.” Instinctively, he snaps back, “You got the order wrong. The bike comes first.”21
  12. // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.While the minimum number of bikes one should own is three, the correct number is n+1, where n is the number of bikes currently owned. This equation may also be re-written as s-1, where s is the number of bikes owned that would result in separation from your partner.
  13. // If you draw race number 13, turn it upside down.Paradoxically, the same mind that holds such control over the body is also woefully fragile and prone to superstitious thought. It fills easily with doubt and is distracted by ancillary details. This is why the tape must always be perfect, the machine silent, the kit spotless. And, if you draw the unlucky Number 13, turn it upside down to counter-act its negative energy.
  14. // Shorts should be black.Team-issue shorts should be black, with the possible exception of side-panels, which may match the rest of the team kit.
  15. // Black shorts should also be worn with leader’s jerseys.Black shorts, or at least standard team-kit shorts, must be worn with Championship jerseys and race leadership jerseys. Don’t over-match your kit, or accept that you will look like a douche.
  16. // Respect the jersey.Championship and race leader jerseys must only be worn if you’ve won the championship or led the race.
  17. // Team kit is for members of the team.Wearing Pro team kit is also questionable if you’re not paid to wear it.  If you must fly the colors of Pro teams, all garments should match perfectly, i.e no Mapei jersey with Kelme shorts and Telekom socks.
  18. // Know what to wear. Don’t suffer kit confusion.No baggy shorts and jerseys while riding the road bike. No lycra when riding the mountain bike (unless racing XC). Skin suits only for cyclocross.
  19. // Introduce Yourself.If you deem it appropriate to join a group of riders who are not part of an open group ride and who are not your mates, it is customary and courteous to announce your presence. Introduce yourself and ask if you may join the group. If you have been passed by a group, wait for an invitation, introduce yourself, or let them go. The silent joiner is viewed as ill-mannered and Anti-V. Conversely, the joiner who can’t shut their cakehole is no better and should be dropped from the group at first opportunity.
  20. // There are only three remedies for pain.These are:

    If your quads start to burn, shift forward to use your hamstrings and calves, or

    If your calves or hamstrings start to burn, shift back to use your quads, or

    If you feel wimpy and weak, meditate on  Rule #5 and train more!

  21. // Cold weather gear is for cold weather.Knickers, vests, arm warmers, shoe covers, and caps beneath your helmet can all make you look like a hardman, when the weather warrants their use. If it isn’t wet or cold, save your Flandrian Best for Flemish weather.
  22. // Cycling caps are for cycling.Cycling caps can be worn under helmets, but never when not riding, no matter how hip you think you look. This will render one a douche, and should result in public berating or beating. The only time it is acceptable to wear a cycling cap is while directly engaged in cycling activities and while clad in cycling kit. This includes activities taking place prior to and immediately after the ride such as machine tuning and tire pumping.  Also included are cafe appearances for pre-ride espressi and post-ride pub appearances for body-refueling ales (provided said pub has sunny, outdoor patio – do not stray inside a pub wearing kit or risk being ceremoniously beaten by leather-clad biker chicks).   Under these conditions, having your cap skull-side tipped jauntily at a rakish angle is, one might say, de rigueur. All good things must be taken in measure, however, and as such it is critical that we let sanity and good taste prevail: as long as the first sip of the relevant caffeine or hop-based beverage is taken whilst beads of sweat, snow, or rain are still evident on one’s brow then it is legitimate for the cap to be worn. However, once all that remains in the cranial furrows is salt, it is then time to shower, throw on some suitable aprés-ride attire (a woollen Molteni Arcore training top circa ’73 comes to mind) and return to the bar, folded copy of pastel-coloured news publication in hand, ready for formal fluid replacement. It is also helpful if you are a Giant of the Road, as demonstrated here, rather than a giant douchebag. 5
  23. // Tuck only after reaching Escape Velocity.You may only employ the aerodynamic tuck after you have spun out your 53 x 11; the tuck is to be engaged only when your legs can no longer keep up. Your legs make you go fast, and trying to keep your fat ass out of the wind only serves to keep you from slowing down once you reach escape velocity. Thus, the tuck is only to be employed to prevent you slowing down when your legs have wrung the top end out of your block. Tucking prematurely while descending is the antithesis of Casually Deliberate. For more on riding fast downhill see Rule #64 and Rule #85.
  24. // Speeds and distances shall be referred to and measured in kilometers. This includes while discussing cycling in the workplace with your non-cycling coworkers, serving to further mystify our sport in the web of their Neanderthalic cognitive capabilities. As the confused expression spreads across their unibrowed faces, casually mention your shaved legs. All of cycling’s monuments are measured in the metric system and as such the English system is forbidden.
  25. // The bikes on top of your car should be worth more than the car. Or at least be relatively more expensive.  Basically, if you’re putting your Huffy on your Rolls, you’re in trouble, mister. Remember what Sean said.
  26. // Make your bike photogenic.When photographing your bike, gussy her up properly for the camera. Some parameters are firm: valve stems at 6 o’clock. Cranks never at 90 or 180 degrees. Others are at your discretion, though the accepted practices include putting the chain on the big dog, and no bidons in the cages.
  27. // Shorts and socks should be like Goldilocks.Not too long and not too short. (Disclaimer: despite Sean Yates’ horrible choice in shorts length, he is a quintessential hard man of cycling and is deeply admired by the Velominati. Whereas Armstrong’s short and sock lengths are just plain wrong.) No socks is a no-no, as are those ankle-length ones that should only be worn by female tennis players.
  28. // Socks can be any damn colour you like.White is old school cool. Black is cool too, but were given a bad image by a Texan whose were too long.  If you feel you must go colored, make sure they damn well match your kit. Tip: DeFeet Wool-E-Ators rule.
  29. // No European Posterior Man-Satchels.Saddle bags have no place on a road bike, and are only acceptable on mountain bikes in extreme cases.
  30. // No frame-mounted pumps.Either Co2 cannisters or mini-pumps should be carried in jersey pockets (See Rule #31). The only exception to this rule is to mount a Silca brand frame pump in the rear triangle of the frame, with the rear wheel skewer as the pump mount nob, as demonstrated by members of the 7-Eleven and Ariostea pro cycling teams. As such, a frame pump mounted upside-down and along the left (skewer lever side) seat stay is both old skool and Euro and thus acceptable. We restate at this time that said pump may under no circumstances be a Zefal and must be made by Silca. Said Silca pump must be fitted with a Campagnolo head. It is acceptable to gaffer-tape a mini-pump to your frame when no C02 cannisters are available and your pockets are full of spare kit and energy gels. However, the rider should expect to be stopped and questioned and may be required to empty pockets to prove there is no room in them for the pump.
  31. // Spare tubes, multi-tools and repair kits should be stored in jersey pockets.If absolutely necessary, in a converted bidon in a cage on bike. Or, use one of these.
  32. // Humps are for camels: no hydration packs.Hydration packs are never to be seen on a road rider’s body. No argument will be entered into on this. For MTB, they are cool.
  33. // Shave your guns.Legs are to be carefully shaved at all times. If, for some reason, your legs are to be left hairy, make sure you can dish out plenty of hurt to shaved riders, or be considered a hippie douche on your way to a Critical Mass. Whether you use a straight razor or a Bowie knife, use Baxter to keep them smooth.
  34. // Mountain bike shoes and pedals have their place.On a mountain bike.
  35. // No visors on the road.Road helmets can be worn on mountain bikes, but never the other way around. If you want shade, see Rule #22.
  36. // Eyewear shall be cycling specific.No Aviator shades, blueblockers, or clip-on covers for eye glasses.
  37. // The arms of the eyewear shall always be placed over the helmet straps.No exceptions. This is for various reasons that may or may not matter; it’s just the way it is.
  38. // Don’t Play Leap Frog.Train Properly: if you get passed by someone, it is nothing personal, just accept that on the day/effort/ride they were stronger than you. If you can’t deal, work harder. But don’t go playing leap frog to get in front only to be taken over again (multiple times) because you can’t keep up the pace. Especially don’t do this just because the person overtaking you is a woman. Seriously. Get over it.
  39. // Never ride without your eyewear.You should not make a habit of riding without eyewear, although approved extenuating circumstances include fog, overheating, and lighting condition. When not worn over the eyes, they should be neatly tucked into the vents of your helmet.  If they don’t fit, buy a new helmet. In the meantime you can wear them backwards on the back of your head or carefully tuck them into your jersey pocket, making sure not to scratch them on your tools (see item 31).
  40. // Tires are to be mounted with the label centered over the valve stem.Pro mechanics do it because it makes it easier to find the valve. You do this because that’s the way pro mechanics do it. This will save you precious seconds while your fat ass sits on the roadside fumbling with your CO2 after a flat. It also looks better for photo opportunities. Note: This obviously only applies to clinchers as tubulars don’t give you a choice.
  41. // Quick-release levers are to be carefully positioned.Quick release angle on the front skewer shall be an upward angle which tightens just aft of the fork and the rear quick release shall tighten at an angle that bisects angle between the seat and chain stays. It is acceptable, however, to have the rear quick release tighten upward, just aft of the seat stay, when the construction of the frame or its dropouts will not allow the preferred positioning. For Time Trial bikes only, quick releases may be in the horizontal position facing towards the rear of the bike. This is for maximum aero effect.9
  42. // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.If it’s preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run, it is not called a bike race, it is called duathlon or a triathlon. Neither of which is a bike race. Also keep in mind that one should only swim in order to prevent drowning, and should only run if being chased. And even then, one should only run fast enough to prevent capture.
  43. // Don’t be a jackass.But if you absolutely must be a jackass, be a funny jackass. Always remember, we’re all brothers and sisters on the road.
  44. // Position matters.In order to find the V-Locus, a rider’s handlebars on their road bike must always be lower than their saddle. The only exception to this is if you’re revolutionizing the sport, in which case you must also be prepared to break the World Hour Record. The minimum allowable tolerance is 4cm; there is no maximum, but people may berate you if they feel you have them too low.
  45. // Slam your stem.A maximum stack height of 2cm is allowed below the stem and a single 5mm spacer must always – always – be stacked above. A “slammed down” stack height is preferable; meaning that the stem is positioned directly on the top race of the headset.
  46. // Keep your bars level.Handlebars will be mounted parallel to the ground or angled slightly upward. While they may never be pointed down at all, they may be angled up slightly; allowed handlebar tilt is to be between 180 and 175 degrees with respect to the level road. The brake levers will preferably be mounted such that the end of the brake lever is even with the bottom of the bar.  Modern bars, however, dictate that this may not always be possible, so tolerances are permitted within reason. Brake hoods should not approach anything near 45 degrees, as some riders with poor taste have been insisting on doing.
  47. // Drink Tripels, don’t ride triples.Cycling and beer are so intertwined we may never understand the full relationship. Beer is a recovery drink, an elixir for post-ride trash talking and a just plain excellent thing to pour down the neck. We train to drink so don’t fool around. Drink quality beer from real breweries. If it is brewed with rice instead of malted barley or requires a lime, you are off the path. Know your bittering units like you know your gear length. Life is short, don’t waste it on piss beer.
  48. // Saddles must be level and pushed back.The seating area of a saddle is to be visually level, with the base measurement made using a spirit level. Based on subtleties of saddle design and requirements of comfort, the saddle may then be pitched slightly forward or backward to reach a position that offers stability, power, and comfort. If the tilt of the saddle exceeds two degrees, you need to go get one of those saddles with springs and a thick gel pad because you are obviously a big pussy. The midpoint of the saddle as measured from tip to tail shall fall well behind and may not be positioned forward of the line made by extending the seat tube through the top of the saddle. (Also see Rule #44.)
  49. // Keep the rubber side down.It is completely unacceptable to intentionally turn one’s steed upside down for any reason under any circumstances. Besides the risk of scratching the saddle, levers and stem, it is unprofessional and a disgrace to your loyal steed. The risk of the bike falling over is increased, wheel removal/replacement is made more difficult and your bidons will leak. The only reason a bicycle should ever be in an upside down position is during mid-rotation while crashing. This Rule also applies to upside down saddle-mount roof bars.23
  50. // Facial hair is to be carefully regulated.No full beards, no moustaches. Goatees are permitted only if your name starts with “Marco” and ends with “Pantani”, or if your head is intentionally or unintentionally bald. One may never shave on the morning of an important race, as it saps your virility, and you need that to kick ass.
  51. // Livestrong wristbands are cockrings for your arms.While we hate cancer, isn’t it better to just donate some money and not have to advertise the fact for the next five years? You may as well get “tryhard wanker” tattooed on your forehead. Or you may well be a bogan.
  52. // Drink in Moderation.Bidons are to be small in size. 500-610ml maximum, no extra large vessels are to be seen on one’s machine. Two cages can be mounted, but only one bidon on rides under two hours is to be employed. Said solo bidon must be placed in the downtube cage only. You may only ride with a bidon in the rear cage if you have a front bidon, or you just handed your front bidon to a fan at the roadside and you are too busy crushing everyone to move it forward until you take your next drink. Bidons should match each other and preferably your bike and/or kit. The obvious exception is the classic Coca-Cola bidon which by default matches any bike and/or kit due to its heritage. Coca-Cola should only be consumed flat and near the end of a long ride or all-day solo breakaway on the roads of France.
  53. // Keep your kit clean and new.As a courtesy to those around you, your kit should always be freshly laundered, and, under no circumstances should the crackal region of your shorts be worn out or see-through.
  54. // No aerobars on road bikes.Aerobars or other clip-on attachments are under no circumstances to be employed on your road bike. The only exception to this is if you are competing in a mountain timetrial.
  55. // Earn your turns.If you are riding down a mountain, you must first have ridden up the mountain. It is forbidden to employ powered transportation simply for the cheap thrill of descending. The only exception to this is if you are doing intervals on Alpe d’Huez or the Plan de Corones and you park your car up top before doing 20 repeats of the climb.
  56. // Espresso or macchiato only.When wearing cycling kit and enjoying a pre or post ride coffee, it is only appropriate to drink espresso or macchiato. If the word soy/skim latte is heard to be used by a member wearing cycling apparel, then that person must be ceremonially beaten with Co2 canisters or mini pumps by others within the community.6
  57. // No stickers.Nobody gives a shit what causes you support, what war you’re against, what gear you buy, or what year you rode RAGBRAI.  See Rule #5 and ride your bike. Decals, on the other hand, are not only permissible, but extremely Pro.
  58. // Support your local bike shop.Never buy bikes, parts or accessories online. Going into your local shop, asking myriad inane questions, tying up the staff’s time, then going online to buy is akin to sleeping with your best friend’s wife, then having a beer with him after. If you do purchase parts online, be prepared to mount and maintain them yourself. If you enter a shop with parts you have bought online and expect them to fit them, be prepared to be told to see your online seller for fitting and warranty help.
  59. // Hold your line.Ride predictably, and don’t make sudden movements. And, under no circumstances, are you to deviate from your line.
  60. // Ditch the washer-nut and valve-stem cap.You are not, under any circumstances, to employ the use of the washer-nut and valve-stem cap that come with your inner-tubes or tubulars. They are only supplied to meet shipping regulations. They are useless when it comes to tubes and tires.
  61. // Like your guns, saddles should be smooth and hard.Under no circumstances may your saddle have more than 3mm of padding. Special allowances will be made for stage racing when physical pain caused by subcutaneous cysts and the like (“saddle sores”) are present. Under those conditions, up to 5mm of padding will be allowed – it should be noted that this exception is only temporary until the condition has passed or been excised. A hardman would not change their saddle at all but instead cut a hole in it to relieve pressure on the delicate area. It is noted that if Rule #48 and/or Rule #5 is observed then any “padding” is superfluous.7
  62. // You shall not ride with earphones.Cycling is about getting outside and into the elements and you don’t need to be listening to Queen or Slayer in order to experience that. Immerse yourself in the rhythm and pain, not in whatever 80’s hair band you call “music”.   See Rule #5 and ride your bike.8
  63. // Point in the direction you’re turning.Signal a left turn by pointing your left arm to the left. To signal a right turn, simply point with your right arm to the right. This one is, presumably, mostly for Americans: that right-turn signal that Americans are taught to make with your left arm elbow-out and your forearm pointing upwards was developed for motor-vehicles prior to the invention of the electric turn signal since it was rather difficult to reach from the driver-side all the way out the passenger-side window to signal a right turn. On a bicycle, however, we don’t have this limitation and it is actually quite easy to point your right arm in the direction you are turning. The American right-turn signal just makes you look like you’re waving “hello” to traffic.
  64. // Cornering confidence increases with time and experience.This pattern continues until it falls sharply and suddenly.
  65. // Maintain and respect your machine.Bicycles must adhere to the Principle of Silence and as such must be meticulously maintained. It must be cherished, and when leaning it against a wall, must be leaned carefully such that only the bars, saddle, or tires come in contact with the wall or post.  This is true even when dismounting prior to collapsing after the World Championship Time Trial. No squeaks, creaks, or chain noise allowed. Only the soothing hum of your tires upon the tarmac and the rhythm of your breathing may be audible when riding. When riding the Pave, the sound of chain slap is acceptable. The Principle of Silence can be extended to say that if you are suffering such that your breathing begins to adversely affect the enjoyment of the other riders in the bunch, you are to summarily sit up and allow yourself to be dropped.10
  66. // No  mirrors.Mirrors are allowed on your (aptly named) Surly Big Dummy or your Surly Long Haul Trucker. Not on your road steed. Not on your Mountain bike. Not on your helmet. If someone familiar with The Rules has sold you such an abomination, return the mirror and demand a refund, plus interest and damages.
  67. // Do your time in the wind.Nobody likes a wheel sucker. You might think you’re playing a smart tactical game by letting everyone else do the work while you sit on, but races (even Town Sign Sprints) are won through cooperation and spending time on the rivet, flogging yourself and taking risks. Riding wheels and jumping past at the end is one thing and one thing only: poor sportsmanship.
  68. // Rides are to be measured by quality, not quantity.Rides are to be measured by the quality of their distance and never by distance alone. For climbing rides, distances should be referred to by the amount of vertical covered; flat and rolling rides should be referred to by their distance and average speed. For example, declaring “We rode 4km” would assert that 4000m were climbed during the ride, with the distance being irrelevant. Conversely, a flat ride of 150km at 23kmh is not something that should be discussed in an open forum and Rule #5 must be reviewed at once.7
  69. // Cycling shoes and bicycles are made for riding.Any walking conducted while wearing cycling shoes must be strictly limited. When taking a slash or filling bidons during a 200km ride (at 38kmh, see Rule #68) one is to carefully stow one’s bicycle at the nearest point navigable by bike and walk the remaining distance. It is strictly prohibited that under any circumstances a cyclist should walk up a steep incline, with the obvious exception being when said incline is blocked by riders who crashed because you are on the Koppenberg. For clarification, see Rule #5.7
  70. // The purpose of competing is to win.End of. Any reference to not achieving this should be referred immediately to Rule #5.11
  71. // Train Properly.Know how to train properly and stick to your training plan. Ignore other cyclists with whom you are not intentionally riding. The time for being competitive is not during your training rides, but during competition.
  72. // Legs speak louder than words.Unless you routinely demonstrate your riding superiority and the smoothness of your Stroke, refrain from discussing your power meter, heartrate, or any other riding data.  Also see Rule #74.
  73. // Gear and brake cables should be cut to optimum length.Cables should create a perfect arc around the headtube and, whenever possible, cross under the downtube. Right shifter cable should go to the left cable stop and vice versa.
  74. // V Meters or small computers only.Forego the data and ride on feel; little compares to the pleasure of riding as hard as your mind will allow. Learn to read your body, meditate on Rule #5, and learn to push yourself to your limit. Power meters, heart rate monitors and GPS are bulky, ugly and superfluous. Any cycle computer, if deemed necessary, should be simple, small, mounted on the stem and wireless.
  75. // Race numbers are for races.Remove it from your frame before the next training ride because no matter how cool you think it looks, it does not look cool. Unless you are in a race. In which case it looks cool.
  76. // Helmets are to be hung from your stem.When not worn, helmets are to be clipped to the stem and draped over your handlebars thusly.
  77. // Respect the earth; don’t litter.Cycling is not an excuse to litter. Do not throw your empty gel packets, energy bar wrappers or punctured tubes on the road or in the bush. Stuff em in your jersey pockets, and repair that tube when you get home.12
  78. // Remove unnecessary gear.When racing in a criterium of 60 minutes or less the second (unused) water bottle cage must be removed in order to preserve the aesthetic of the racing machine.13
  79. // Fight for your town lines.Town lines must be contested or at least faked if you’re not in to it or too shagged to do anything but pedal the bike.
  80. // Always be Casually Deliberate.Waiting for others pre-ride or at the start line pre-race, you must be tranquilo, resting on your top tube thusly. This may be extended to any time one is aboard the bike, but not riding it, such as at stop lights.15
  81. // Don’t talk it up.Rides and crashes may only be discussed and recounted in detail when the rider required external assistance in recovery or recuperation. Otherwise refer to Rule #5.
  82. // Close the gap.Whilst riding in cold and/or  Rule #9 conditions replete with arm warmers, under no circumstances is there to be any exposed skin between the hems of your kit and the hems of your arm warmers. If this occurs, you either need to wear a kit that fits you properly or increase the size of your guns. Arm warmers may, however, be shoved to the wrists in Five and Dime scenarios, particularly those involving Rule #9 conditions. The No-Gap Principle also applies to knee and leg warmers with the variation that these are under no circumstances to be scrunched down around the ankles; Merckx have mercy on whomever is caught in such a sad, sorry state. It is important to note that while one can wear arm warmers without wearing knee or leg warmers, one cannot wear knee or leg warmers without wearing arm warmers (or a long sleeve jersey). It is completely inappropriate to have uncovered arms, while covering the knees, with the exception of brief periods of time when the arm warmers may be shoved to the wrists while going uphill in a Five and Dime situation. If the weather changes and one must remove a layer, the knee/leg coverings must go before the arm coverings. If that means that said rider must take off his knee or leg warmers while racing, then this is a skill he must be accomplished in. The single exception would be before an event in which someone plans on wearing neither arm or leg warmers while racing, but would like to keep the legs warm before the event starts; though wearing a long sleeve jersey over the racing kit at this time is also advised. One must not forget to remove said leg warmers. 16
  83. // Be self-sufficient.Unless you are followed by a team car, you will repair your own punctures. You will do so expediently, employing your own skills, using your own equipment, and without complaining that your expensive tyres are too tight for your puny thumbs to fit over your expensive rim. The fate of a rider who has failed to equip himself pursuant to Rule #31, or who knows not how to use said equipment, shall be determined at the discretion of any accompanying or approaching rider in accordance with Rule #84.17
  84. // Follow the Code.Consistently with The Code Of The Domestique, the announcement of a flat tyre in a training ride entitles – but does not oblige – all riders then present in the bunch to cease riding without fear of being labelled Pussies. All stopped riders are thereupon entitled – but not obliged – to lend assistance, instruction and/or stringent criticism of the tyre mender’s technique. The duration of a Rule #84 stop is entirely discretionary, but is generally inversely proportional to the duration of the remaining time available for post-ride espresso.17
  85. // Descend like a Pro.All descents shall be undertaken at speeds commonly regarded as “ludicrous” or “insane” by those less talented. In addition all corners will be traversed in an outside-inside-outside trajectory, with the outer leg extended and the inner leg canted appropriately (but not too far as to replicate a motorcycle racer, for you are not one), to assist in balance and creation of an appealing aesthetic. Brakes are generally not to be employed, but if absolutely necessary, only just prior to the corner. Also see Rule #64.18
  86. // Don’t half-wheel.Never half-wheel your riding partners; it’s terrible form – it is always the other guy who sets the pace. Unless, of course, you are on the rivet, in which case it’s an excellent intimidation technique.22
  87. // The Ride Starts on Time. No exceptions.The upside of always leaving on time is considerable. Others will be late exactly once. You signal that the sanctity of this ride, like all rides, is not something with which you should muck. You demonstrate, not with words but with actions, your commitment. As a bonus, you make more time for post-ride espresso. “On Time”, of course, is taken to mean at V past the hour or half hour.
  88. // Don’t surge.When rolling onto the front to take your turn in the wind, see Rule #67, do not suddenly lift the pace unless trying to establish a break. The key to maintaining a high average speed is to work with your companions and allow no gaps to form in the line. It is permissible to lift the pace gradually and if this results in people being dropped then they have been ridden off your wheel and are of no use to the bunch anyway. If you are behind someone who jumps on the pedals when they hit the front do not reprimand the offender with cries of ‘Don’t Surge’ unless the offender is a Frenchman named Serge.
  89. // Pronounce it Correctly.All races shall be referred to by the name given in its country of origin, and care shall be taken to pronounce the name as well as possible. For Belgian Races, it is preferable to choose the name given in its region of origin, though it is at the speaker’s discretion to use either the Flemish or Wallonian pronunciation. This principle shall also be extended to apply to riders’ names, bicycle and component marquees, and cycling accoutrements.
  90. // Never Get Out of the Big Ring.If it gets steeper, just push harder on the pedals. When pressed on the matter, the Apostle Johan Museeuw simply replied, “Yes, why would you slow down?” It is, of course, acceptable to momentarily shift into the inner ring when scaling the 20% ramps of the Kapelmuur.
  91. // No Food On Training Rides Under Four Hours.This one also comes from the Apostle, Johan Museeuw, who said to @frank: “Yes, no food on rides under four hours. You need to lose some weight.” Or, as Fignon put it, sometimes, when we train, we simply have to go out to meet the Man with the Hammer. The exception is, of course, hard rides over two hours and races. Also, if you’re planning on being out for more than four hours, start eating before you get hungry. This also applies to energy drink supplements.
  92. // No Sprinting From the HoodsThe only exception is riders whose name starts with Guiseppe and ends with Saronni. See the Goodwood Worlds in 82.24
  93. // Descents are not for recovery. Recovery Ales are for RecoveryDescents are meant to be as hard and demanding as – and much more dangerous than – the climbs. Climb hard, descend to close a gap or open one. Descents should hurt, not be a time for recovery. Recovery is designated only for the pub and for shit-talking.25
  94. // Use the correct tool for the job, and use the tool correctly.Bicycle maintenance is an art; tools are designed to serve specific purposes, and it is essential that the Velominatus learns to use each tool properly when working on their loyal machine.
  95. // Never lift your bike over your head.Under no circumstances is it acceptable to raise one’s machine above your head. The only exception is when placing it onto a car’s roof-rack.

Posts related to The Rules may be found here.

Submit your suggestions in the posts, or via email here.

Credits

1 Thanks to Geof for this submission.
2 Stijn Devolder on Rule #5, in defense of staying in Belgium when his teammates went off to train in sunny Spain: “It is not so cold that you freeze on to your bike. You go from a temperature of zero (Celsius) to minus one and you’re not dead; It hardens your character.”
3 It is possible for experts to mix these matching guidelines successfully without breaking The Rules.  This is a very risky undertaking and can yield unpredictable results.  Proceed carefully and, if in doubt, run your configuration by the Keepers for approval.
4 Famous quote by Greg LeMond, hardman and American Cycling legend. Greg Henderson quote courtesy of Neil. (Incidentally, it does not matter how fast you go, but you may never give up.)
5 Thanks to James for his sound input on modifying this submission from it’s original draft which read, “An exception to wearing a cap when not riding is: If you have a soigneur (you don’t) and he places the cap on your head after you’ve just won a mountain top finish or soloed into the velodrome (you haven’t).”
6 Thanks to Rob for this submission.
7 Thanks to Rob (different from Rob in 6) for this submission.
8 Thanks to Saul at Speedy Reedy for this submission.
9 Thanks to BarryRoubaix for the astute observation regarding Time Trial Bikes.
10Thanks to Souleur for the astute observation regarding the Principle of Silence.
11 Thanks to Charlie for this addition.
12 Thanks to Jarvis and Steampunk for their tidy ways.
13 Thanks to Cyclops for this sensibly aesthetic addition.
15 Thanks to SupermanSam via our friends at CyclingTipsBlog.
16 Thanks to Rusty Tool Shed and Reid Beloni for assistance in helping craft the language of this Rule.
17 Thanks to Karim for this most accurate contribution.
18 Thanks to SterlingMatt for this most accurate contribution.
21 There are variants of this story, including one which is more likely to be the actual way this story unfolded, which goes that Sean Kelly is met by his wife after a the ’84 Amstel Gold Race and they get in his Citroen AX: “Ah, Sean” says his beloved wife, “in your life the car comes first, then the bike, then me.” “You got the order wrong,” Kelly scowls, “the bike comes first.” Thanks to Oli Brooke-White for helping sort out the details of the story.
22 Thanks to David Ezzy for this excellent contribution and fantastic ride out to Kaupo and back.
23 Thanks to Donnie Bugno for this most accurate contribution.
24 Thanks to Robert Millar – yes the Robert Millar for filling this most glaring omission.
25 Thanks to @urbanwhitetrash for the submission.

12,462 Replies to “The Rules”

  1. @Quasar

    @Teocalli

    @Quasar

    Does elevated SO2 from a massive volcanic eruption count as Rule #9 conditions? Disgusting stuff to ride (or walk) through, I do not recommend it.

    I think insisting that you experience a full pyroclastic flow before claiming Rule #9 compliance would, under the circumstances, probably be a tad picky.

    The volcano in question does not do those, but like other Icelandic fissure volcanoes it does send out incredible amounts of lava and this horrible gas. The lava is far away and almost inaccessible anyway, but the gas is most unpleasant.

    You may be our first openly Icelandic community member. Welcome!

  2. Advice re Rule #16 – Respect the Jersey

    Yellow Jersey, Maglia Rosa, KoM etc- all clear and all no-no’s. I have come across some shorts (and tops) that I really like as they are in the classic style. However, they also have World Champion colours as trim.

    http://www.tudorsports.co.uk/tudor-sports-products.html

    Is trim considered sufficiently discreet to act as a nod to the champions, or is any hint of the rainbow on kit beyond the pale?

    Thanks,

    David

  3. @frank

    @Quasar

    @Teocalli

    @Quasar

    Does elevated SO2 from a massive volcanic eruption count as Rule #9 conditions? Disgusting stuff to ride (or walk) through, I do not recommend it.

    I think insisting that you experience a full pyroclastic flow before claiming Rule #9 compliance would, under the circumstances, probably be a tad picky.

    The volcano in question does not do those, but like other Icelandic fissure volcanoes it does send out incredible amounts of lava and this horrible gas. The lava is far away and almost inaccessible anyway, but the gas is most unpleasant.

    You may be our first openly Icelandic community member. Welcome!

    Thank you!  I’ve been reading this site for quite a while but recently decided to take the jump off the deep end…

  4. im fairly new to cycling. however it seems that there should be a limit on the number of items/accessories/clothing matching. where not enough will deem one ‘unpro’ and too much – a douche. there should also be a coefficient depending on what colour/motif is being accented. this may be a sliding scale directly relating to its fluorescence. just a thought.

  5. @sthilzy  as you’re a Gray Order Velominatus I’ll take your advice!

    More seriously, I’m doing eroica Britannia next year on my dads 1970’s Raleigh and the kit from Tudor I think would be most suitable.

    Thanks!

  6. @davidlhill

    @sthilzy as you’re a Gray Order Velominatus I’ll take your advice!

    More seriously, I’m doing eroica Britannia next year on my dads 1970’s Raleigh and the kit from Tudor I think would be most suitable.

    Thanks!

    Hey, entry permitting we should hook up.  Did you do this year?  Jersey should be preferably wool.  Expensive but these guys do good kit…..http://www.vintagevelos.com/

  7. I feel there should be a rule (or at the very least a sub category) regarding wear helmets off the bike- e.g. shall not be worn while one is shopping or riding the bus

  8. Rule #18, Uh, how can skin suits only be for cyclocross, what about TT ? and pro’s have basically been wearing skin suits on stage races with sprint finishes… :)

  9. @Krieg I think (unless I’m very much mistaken) that you’ve misread it: it means, “when you are riding CX, only wear a skinsuit”; skinsuits are by all means valid for TTs””and track racing as well, I’d expect.

  10. @Teocalli

    @davidlhill

    @sthilzy as you’re a Gray Order Velominatus I’ll take your advice!

    More seriously, I’m doing eroica Britannia next year on my dads 1970’s Raleigh and the kit from Tudor I think would be most suitable.

    Thanks!

    Hey, entry permitting we should hook up. Did you do this year? Jersey should be preferably wool. Expensive but these guys do good kit…..http://www.vintagevelos.com/

    That sounds like a plan – apparently entries to Eroica open shortly and I’ll be clicking ‘enter’ as soon as I can.

    My current vintage top belonged to my dad – it’s a tight fit so I’ll have to keep off the pies if I want to use it next summer. Here I am modelling it at Eroica Tuscany last October.

    David

  11. Rule #49 needs some rethinking.

    It’s necessary to flip your bike upside down after it ever gets wet. Water will enter from the seat post and sit in a puddle in the bottom bracket shell and corrode the BB muy pronto. If you ride in the rain or wash your bike, flip it. If there’s any chance of condensation, flip it. If neither of these apply, flip it. Flip it. Flip it good.

  12. I took a couple of photos of my sorry looking steed yesterday, just to show that I had enjoyed a large portion of Rule #9. This was followed by an hour or so of Rule #65

    (Unfortunately I can’t share the other photo of the whole bike as I don’t want to post photographic proof of a rule violation).

  13. Just picked up a copy of the rules. This born-again rider absolutely loves it.

  14. I explained Rule #58 to my LNS (local nordic shop) this weekend when getting fitted for skate boots – they got a big kick out of it.  There was a bit of irony in that today however was when I got an email saying that they couldn’t get the boots I needed until mid-January, but that Backcountry had them in stock for the same price so I should get them there (I’m still getting the skis, bindings and poles through the LNS though).  After trying to buy XC ski gear, I’ll never complain about the scarcity of certain cycling frames/components/accessories.

  15. @Olsonist

    Rule #49 needs some rethinking.

    It’s necessary to flip your bike upside down after it ever gets wet. Water will enter from the seat post and sit in a puddle in the bottom bracket shell and corrode the BB muy pronto. If you ride in the rain or wash your bike, flip it. If there’s any chance of condensation, flip it. If neither of these apply, flip it. Flip it. Flip it good.

    Can’t say I agree with this. I’m pretty sure I’d notice water sloshing around inside my seat tube, and yes I both ride in the rain and wash it (the two usually go hand-in-hand). Curious how water would even get in, unless you remove the seat post and/or saddle?

  16. @markb

    @Olsonist

    Rule #49 needs some rethinking.

    It’s necessary to flip your bike upside down after it ever gets wet. Water will enter from the seat post and sit in a puddle in the bottom bracket shell and corrode the BB muy pronto. If you ride in the rain or wash your bike, flip it. If there’s any chance of condensation, flip it. If neither of these apply, flip it. Flip it. Flip it good.

    Can’t say I agree with this. I’m pretty sure I’d notice water sloshing around inside my seat tube, and yes I both ride in the rain and wash it (the two usually go hand-in-hand). Curious how water would even get in, unless you remove the seat post and/or saddle?

    FWIW, I get water in the frame of my BMC SLO1 after a very wet ride.  I don’t really notice it until I upend my bike and it comes pouring out.  It probably gets in through the seat post.  I guess BMC calls it a “stream post” for a reason…

  17. @markb

    @Olsonist

    Rule #49 needs some rethinking.

    It’s necessary to flip your bike upside down after it ever gets wet. Water will enter from the seat post and sit in a puddle in the bottom bracket shell and corrode the BB muy pronto. If you ride in the rain or wash your bike, flip it. If there’s any chance of condensation, flip it. If neither of these apply, flip it. Flip it. Flip it good.

    Can’t say I agree with this. I’m pretty sure I’d notice water sloshing around inside my seat tube, and yes I both ride in the rain and wash it (the two usually go hand-in-hand). Curious how water would even get in, unless you remove the seat post and/or saddle?

    Possibly the rule should be amended to say that of course a bike should be turned upside down if maintenance or cleaning dictates but under no circumstances should it be rest on the ground whilst doing so. A bike can be safely inverted for such purposes using a maintenance stand (or hung from a ceiling if one is a velominatus budgetatus).

    Or one could take the view that all that is covered by Rule #65.

  18. Today the site is loading with a heading “This website regularly exceeds the IPinfo.io API rate limits….” is this further evidence that this site contains more information than the ‘net can handle?

  19. @Olsonist

    Rule #49 needs some rethinking.

    It’s necessary to flip your bike upside down after it ever gets wet. Water will enter from the seat post and sit in a puddle in the bottom bracket shell and corrode the BB muy pronto.

    What peculiar type of bike do you ride?. About the only amount of water getting past the seat posts on my bikes is maybe an entire drop. They are a tight fit and held by friction so…

    In any case, all three of my frame have drain holes in under the BB to let said drop out.

  20. I’m new here and to cycling (purchased my first road bike back in August), so I’m hoping you all will follow Rule #3 and go easy on me. I’m weaning myself off my EPMS now that I finally have a jersey, but I may be violating something else. Bear with me.

    I started cycling with some weight to lose, and before buying my bike I hadn’t been on one in a decade. I also wanted it to commute to school, so it’s not a dedicated training machine (until I get Bike #2). It serves as commuter, bad weather bike, everything. So, when I ride to school or to a friend’s house, etc., I have to lock it up for extended periods. I have one cage, and then I have a lock mounted to the seat tube instead of a second cage (I’m still too out of shape for rides requiring two bidons anyhow).

    I’m not technically breaking a rule (I don’t think, it just looks kinda dumb), but can practicality ever outweigh looking pro? I have to lock the thing up somehow, and a cable lock won’t take long for a thief to cut through. I figure this looks better than riding with a U-lock around my top tube, but I’m often wrong. So do I keep the tube-mounted lock, or what’s my solution here? The bike has other problems at present (still no clipless pedals or proper shoes; I plan to remedy that in the next few weeks). But the mounted lock is convenient and sturdy. Anyone have any solutions for me? Do I deserve relentless mocking or am I fine? I’ll sort out the mismatched kit and pedal situation, but in the meantime, how do I keep my bike safe when it’s out of sight for extended periods of time?

    Glad I found this site. I look forward to learning more and riding better. Hopefully it will stop snowing so I can go ride…

  21. @thfc1987 I think while it’s on mule duty, the lock can be loaded there, and then on occasions where you’re just riding for riding’s sake it should be removed.

    End game should be keeping this bike as your everyday beater and once you’re feeling confident enough in your riding make the progression to a bike worthy of #1 status, pull the trigger on something sexy with proper shoes, pedals & all the trimmings.

  22. @Mikael Liddy

    @piwakawaka fuck, my eyes!!!! Such as shame as FDJ usually have some pretty en pointe kits.

    jesus & allah that is awful. Why do pro teams persist with white knicks? They have no redeeming features. None.  Give that kit some blue knicks and you might get away with it. Whatever, FDJ have just blown their season right there and Pinot knows it.  Hopefully he’s been paid in advance.

  23. @Mikael Liddy

    @piwakawaka fuck, my eyes!!!! Such as shame as FDJ usually have some pretty en pointe kits.

    Jesus, Mohammad & Allah that is a travesty.  Why do pro teams persist with white knicks? They have no redeeming features.  With some blue or even red knicks that kit might pass but white!  FDJ have just blown their 2015 season right there and Pinot knows it.  I hope he was paid in advance.

  24. @thfc1987

    I’m not technically breaking a rule (I don’t think, it just looks kinda dumb), but can practicality ever outweigh looking pro? I have to lock the thing up somehow, and a cable lock won’t take long for a thief to cut through. I figure this looks better than riding with a U-lock around my top tube, but I’m often wrong. So do I keep the tube-mounted lock, or what’s my solution here? The bike has other problems at present (still no clipless pedals or proper shoes; I plan to remedy that in the next few weeks). But the mounted lock is convenient and sturdy. Anyone have any solutions for me? Do I deserve relentless mocking or am I fine? I’ll sort out the mismatched kit and pedal situation, but in the meantime, how do I keep my bike safe when it’s out of sight for extended periods of time?

    You can get decent locks which you can wear as a belt while cycling. My wife’s got one and it’s great – once it’s on you barely know it’s there and it doesn’t have to make your steed look shit.

    They are called Hiplocks. Recommended.

  25. @PeakInTwoYears

    @RobSandy

    That Hiplok looks clever. I don’t have a need for a lock, but if I ever move back to civilization I’d give it a try.

    You wouldn’t want to give it the full V with it around your waist, but for commuting/social uses they are great. It’s a proper chunky chain and lock, too, not a silly wire thing.

    I’m pretty sure not having a lock attached to your frame (or worse, dangling off your handlebars…*shudder*) is forbidden by the same rule as no frame mounted pumps. If not, it should be.

  26. @RobSandy

    Right. It would be for the kinds of uses described by the original interlocutor hereinbefore. Re locks and the Rules, in my opinion some things are so obvious as to make redundant any discussion of them.

  27. @Mikael Liddy

    Thanks, I think that’s the plan. I actually found that the lock itself folds enough to fit in a jersey pocket, so I went ahead and removed the mount and added a second cage. No second bidon, but matching cages have it looking a little better. This way I can keep the lock in the jersey, or in a backpack or whatever.

    I went entry-level Specialized since I hadn’t been on a bike in forever and didn’t want to trash a nice machine (not to mention I’m still in school, so I didn’t really have much of a budget). With the holidays coming up, I’m eyeing some inexpensive but well-received clipless pedals and shoes so that I can learn how all that works, and get used to falling over. If anyone has any pedal/shoe recommendations for a beginner, let me know. I think once I get some more kilometres under my belt, finish grad school in May, and land an adult job (god willing), I’ll treat myself to a proper #1. Until then, I’m going to continue to beat this Megalized into the ground.

    @markb

    That actually looks incredibly handy, thanks for the tip. May invest…

    @RobSandy

    Ditto. And I think you’re right, frame mounted lock needs to be added to Rule #30.

    @PeakInTwoYears

    Hey, like I said, I’m new to this.

    As far as the new FDJ kits, I liked them when I just saw the jersey the other day. Seeing the entire thing, though? Shudder.

    Thanks for your guidance, all. I’ve got one more general question. How do you ride through winters? I’m in Wisconsin where it’s currently blowing snow, my bike control is terrible, and the thought of those skinny tires hitting ice makes me nervous. Does anyone do anything to winterize their bikes? Should I bother, or just accept the fact that I’m going to fall and get on with it? I was going to buy a turbo trainer, but, Rules #5 and #9. I think I’ll use that money for appropriate winter kit. Anything I’m overlooking?

    Once again, thanks for all the replies. I may be riding a basic cheap steed, but minus reflectors, dork disc, EPMS, and mounted lock, it does look better. As the saying goes, you look good, you feel good…

    Thanks.

  28. @piwakawaka

    I’m a little terrified to see what the new Cannondale-Garmin kit will look like. If it ends up as lime green argyle, these may look great by comparison.

  29. And while I’m blowing up the comment section, I may as well ask. One, should I bother spending $250 for a fitting session considering my bike only cost $750? Two, in comparison with some of your bikes I’ve seen and, obviously the pros, my setup isn’t remotely aggressive. I’m basically sitting upright the whole time, as my saddle is practically the same height as my bars. Even on the drops, I can’t get too low. Could this be because it’s an entry-level bike and so designed to be more comfortable?

    I’ve noticed my headset has 20mm of spacers in addition to a 20mm cone, whereas more advanced bikes I’ve seen don’t have nearly as much. Is the assumption that the more expensive the bike, the more proficient the rider, and thus the more aggressive position? I’ve read that adjusting saddle height to fix reach isn’t a great idea, but I can take a spacer off and put it on top of the stem so the bars sit lower. Should I bother, or just leave it how it is? Okay, for real, I’m done posting today. Thank you all, you’ve been great. Being new to this is confusing.

  30. @thfc1987

    And while I’m blowing up the comment section, I may as well ask. One, should I bother spending $250 for a fitting session considering my bike only cost $750? Two, in comparison with some of your bikes I’ve seen and, obviously the pros, my setup isn’t remotely aggressive. I’m basically sitting upright the whole time, as my saddle is practically the same height as my bars. Even on the drops, I can’t get too low. Could this be because it’s an entry-level bike and so designed to be more comfortable?

    I’ve noticed my headset has 20mm of spacers in addition to a 20mm cone, whereas more advanced bikes I’ve seen don’t have nearly as much. Is the assumption that the more expensive the bike, the more proficient the rider, and thus the more aggressive position? I’ve read that adjusting saddle height to fix reach isn’t a great idea, but I can take a spacer off and put it on top of the stem so the bars sit lower. Should I bother, or just leave it how it is? Okay, for real, I’m done posting today. Thank you all, you’ve been great. Being new to this is confusing.

    Look at it this way: That $750 bike isn’t going to be your last one. In a few years it’ll be #2 or #3 bike. The set-up you get now will be useful in prepping the way to make sure future purchases are sound and that you can maintain identical/near-as-dammit set-ups on all your bikes. Use this bike as the test model to find the right position. Better to make mistakes on a $750 bike than one costing several times as much. Good luck!

  31. @thfc1987

    And while I’m blowing up the comment section, I may as well ask. One, should I bother spending $250 for a fitting session considering my bike only cost $750? Two, in comparison with some of your bikes I’ve seen and, obviously the pros, my setup isn’t remotely aggressive. I’m basically sitting upright the whole time, as my saddle is practically the same height as my bars. Even on the drops, I can’t get too low. Could this be because it’s an entry-level bike and so designed to be more comfortable?

    I’m new to road bikes too (got my first 3 weeks ago). I, however, went for a racy-ish model (Felt F-75) so it may be a little more aggressive in the geometry than yours.

    Anyway, I found several How-To guides on the web which go through bike fitting step-by-step. I found it helped me make a few tweaks to my riding position which hopefully will pay off. Wont fix everything, but it’s a start.

    Achieving a lower riding position might not be possible on your bike, but everything can be tweaked; saddle height and setback, stem length, angle, stem height…etc. My approach has been to gradually lower my bars and raise my saddle, bit by bit, so my body can adapt. So I’ve held off slamming my stem for now until my back seems okay with my current riding position.

    My assumption is that as I’m really just starting the limiting factor on my speed is going to be my guns, not how aero my position is. By the time that becomes an issue (ha!) I’ll have slammed my stem, raised my saddle, or got a new bike.

  32. @thfc1987 Bike fittings are super important but $250 seems way too steep to me.  Seems like a decent fitting should not run you more than $100.

    And like someone else said a bit ago, you can self fit to a point using numerous online fitting sites.

  33. Another thing that helps a lot with bike fitting these days: stems are way cheaper and easier to install than they were in the quill stem days. No need to remove brake levers or tape. Five wee bolts and you’re in business!

  34. @RobSandy

    Now that you mention it, yeah, the legs should be more of a concern than how aero I am. Doesn’t matter much if I can’t pedal anywhere, does it? I hope you’re enjoying your Felt. I don’t know a ton, but I’ve read they’re making some really great stuff. Seems like they don’t get the same exposure as other companies because they don’t have a WorldTour team riding their bikes. As far as positioning, I’ve spent a good hour or so examining my bike, and I’m not sure it’s possible to get this thing set up too much differently. No worries, it’s still an absolute blast to ride.

    @wiscot

    Thanks, you’re completely right. I think that unfortunately (and this probably happens to a lot of people) I got a new bike, didn’t expect to fall in love with riding like I did, and now I have shiny object syndrome. I see a new machine and my immediate reaction is I WANT IT. Funny, too, as I’m not like this with other things. I drive an ordinary car, don’t own much outside of my bike, my TV, and my books. But for some reason I see a Colnago or Cervelo or something and I just start salivating. I keep thinking I’ll ride longer, faster, with more power. I keep forgetting that at this point, my limits are physical, not technological. For now I need to upgrade a few things (i.e., pedals and shoes) and get on with it.

    @Buck Rogers

    Thanks, I thought $250 seemed pricey. The fitting I got with the purchase is, according to the shop, ordinarily $60 bucks but free with a bike purchase. The other one they offer is this $250 dollar one, takes 2.5 hours and is computerized and all that. I think I’ll take everyone’s advice and find online guides to make small adjustments. The one thing I’m worried about doing myself is setting up pedals and cleats, but I suppose it can’t be that hard.

    Thanks for entertaining my questions, everyone. I was afraid to post on a website with a list of sacred rules, but you guys have been great.

  35. @thfc1987

     

    …….,now I have shiny object syndrome. I see a new machine and my immediate reaction is I WANT IT. ……….. I drive an ordinary car, don’t own much outside of my bike, ……… But for some reason I see a Colnago or Cervelo or something and I just start salivating.

    Excellent.  Sounds like you are well on the way to attaining Rule #25 conformance.

  36. @thfc1987

     I think I’ll take everyone’s advice and find online guides to make small adjustments.

    If you’re going to make many small adjustments, especially seat and stem, get your hands on a bicycle torque wrench so you don’t over/under tighten the bolts, or worse strip the threads.

  37. @sthilzy

    @thfc1987

    I think I’ll take everyone’s advice and find online guides to make small adjustments.

    If you’re going to make many small adjustments, especially seat and stem, get your hands on a bicycle torque wrench so you don’t over/under tighten the bolts, or worse strip the threads.

    Will do, thank you. Sure beats learning the hard way.

  38. @thfc1987

    @RobSandy

    I hope you’re enjoying your Felt. I don’t know a ton, but I’ve read they’re making some really great stuff. Seems like they don’t get the same exposure as other companies because they don’t have a WorldTour team riding their bikes. As far as positioning, I’ve spent a good hour or so examining my bike, and I’m not sure it’s possible to get this thing set up too much differently. No worries, it’s still an absolute blast to ride.

     

    @Buck Rogers

    The one thing I’m worried about doing myself is setting up pedals and cleats, but I suppose it can’t be that hard.

    The Felt is just spot on for me, nothing to fault about it as a just-a-bit-better-than entry level road bike. it’s about 9kg, and my old Giant Rapid (which I rode my first sportive on) weighed over 14kg! It just feels fast to ride, which is what I like. It helps I got a fantastic deal on it (which sadly contravened Rule #58, sorry).

    I’m doing as Velothon event in South Wales next July so I’m already psyched to be crushing it by then. Well, to be honest I’m an ex-rugby player so my BMI is off the scale for a cyclist, so really I’m just hoping to keep up with my skinny mates up the hills.

    I’m pretty much a retard when it comes to bike maintenance but I’ve never had any trouble with pedals or cleats. You’ll be fine. I’m currently using SPDs as it’s what I’m used to but I’ll probably switch to road pedals and cleats somewhere down the line.

    Good luck!

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