Categories: La Vie Velominatus

La Vie Velominatus: Cable Obsession

Cable organization perfection: resistance is futile.

I’m fluent in three languages: Dutch, English, and Hyperbole. The third is an acquired talent developed by creative and narcissistic tendencies; the narcissism feeds a belief that normal words can’t properly describe the magnitude of my experiences, and the creativity struggles to cope with restrictive paradigms like “facts” and “reality”. I have also been diagnosed with obsessive-compulsive disorder which, when taken with everything else, suggests that my darling partner exhibits some questionable judgement.

I have a visceral response to clutter; when I see things out of order, my insides turn about themselves and cause me physical discomfort. If the clutter escalates to becoming a “mess”, my mood changes and I become irritable. This applies to everything from our house, my workshop, my office, desk space, my computer desktop, my briefcase, and my bicycles’ cable organization. I don’t have to tell you that the last one is the only one that really matters.

The tidiness of the cables on a bicycle are one of several key factors that elevate the Velominatus above the Common Cyclist. The old style of STI shifters and their protruding cables were barbaric; they represented a principle reason for my dislike of Shimano’s system. Campagnolo took a few extra years to produce the Ergo shifters, and I am quite convinced they spent that extra time sorting out how to internally route the cables.

The organization of a rider’s cables and the length to which they are trimmed is a critical detail to which we must all pay close attention. No matter how beautiful the bike, disheveled cables will always bring it down. I hereby give you the V Principles of Cable Routing:

  1. It is of paramount importance that the housing exit the bar tape at precisely opposite points on the bars. This extends beyond the cables taken in aggregate, and applies to both the brake and shift housing meaning that if they are routed together, the brake cable must always be below the shift cable, and if they are route front/back on the bars, they must both be routed in the same fashion.
  2. The housing must be organized such that they mimic and mirror each other’s curves to the maximum capability of the frame and application. This is to say that housing intersections and contact points must be minimized and under no circumstances may a shift-brake cable pair be split by another cable running from its mirrored set.
  3. Cable housing must be cut to the shortest length possible while still allowing full movement of the handlebars. It must, however, be cut long enough to allow that the cables run in a smooth curve at all points, minimizing friction. The shift cables should be cut such that they overlap only slightly; the ideal is that they just kiss each other at the apex of their arch to the frame.
  4. Inner cables must be cut to a length not exceeding 2cm. The ideal length is 1.5 times the length of the cable end.
  5. Cable ends will always be crimped using a crimping tool. Extra points awarded for a diagonal double-crimp. Under no circumstances are frayed cables to be tolerated.

Go with Merckx, and do not violate these principles. Vive la Vie Velominatus.

[dmalbum path=”/velominati.com/content/Photo Galleries/frank@velominati.com/Cables/”/]

frank

The founder of Velominati and curator of The Rules, Frank was born in the Dutch colonies of Minnesota. His boundless physical talents are carefully canceled out by his equally boundless enthusiasm for drinking. Coffee, beer, wine, if it’s in a container, he will enjoy it, a lot of it. He currently lives in Seattle. He loves riding in the rain and scheduling visits with the Man with the Hammer just to be reminded of the privilege it is to feel completely depleted. He holds down a technology job the description of which no-one really understands and his interests outside of Cycling and drinking are Cycling and drinking. As devoted aesthete, the only thing more important to him than riding a bike well is looking good doing it. Frank is co-author along with the other Keepers of the Cog of the popular book, The Rules, The Way of the Cycling Disciple and also writes a monthly column for the magazine, Cyclist. He is also currently working on the first follow-up to The Rules, tentatively entitled The Hardmen. Email him directly at rouleur@velominati.com.

View Comments

  • @roger

    the fi'zi:k finish tape looks better legible from the front, not while mounted. you seem to be of both camps, frank.

    He is covering his OCD bets. Very observant Wodger.

  • Lest those forget an emphasis on color choices.

    Detailing to match the Columbus MXL decal.

  • @Marcus

    Do you worry about cable rub on the Veloforma head tube?

    You'll have to be much more specific - which Veloforma? I've never worried about cable rub ever. That said, I have some little pads on the Strada iR that will keep it from happening and I'm using Jagwire's rubber pads on the CCX.

    I ultimately think cable rub is nothing to worry about and these are the first two bikes I've taken any precaution for - mostly just to do it and see if it helps.

    And to bring the conversation to your level, cable rub can be fantastic.

  • @SloKenny

    I ditch the cable ends and instead superglue the cut tips of the cables.

    That's a good approach. I was going to mention that soldering the ends is the most badass way to go, which is what my first Sensei did. He had spent years as the head mechanic for Helvetia La Suisse. He would also cut the cables basically to the bolt after soldering them. Class act, that one.

  • @Chris

    In my defence, though, I suspect it's probably easier to get a neater cable set up if you happen to need a 12 foot Dutch Monkey stem. Using a (considerably) shorter stem seems to push the cables forwards which doesn't work so well.

    That is some class rationalization. You must suffer from the same creative bent I do where reality has nothing to do with the theories you spin.

    That said there is room for improvement and I'll also start saving for a bike that is much to small for me so I can go for a frankenstem.

    And then you redeem yourself. Frankenstem into the Lexi, then.

  • @Weldertron

    I just realized my rear brake cable runs between the other 2.

    ugh.

    Look like some jackhole even created special anchors to enable this horrible contravention. Remedy immediately. Luckily, you should be able to do what I did when I made this same mistake and just pull out the front brake cable and sort the mess out.

  • @sthilzy

    I've been wondering if there was a Rule on inner cable length of cut.

    • Inner cables must be cut to a length not exceeding 2cm. The ideal length is 1.5 times the length of the cable end.

    What was I thinking waaaay back then?! Actually I wasn't, therefore the tow rope hanging from my front caliper.

    • Cable ends will always be crimped using a crimping tool. Extra points awarded for a diagonal double-crimp. Under no circumstances are frayed cables to be tolerated.

    I use to use a soldering iron with solder to neaten the cable end, then cut off the fray if any.

    Ferrules are much nicer and with so many colours to choose from.

    Love that shot! Your front brake is like the strings on guitars from some of those guys who love leaving the ends long. (And yes, you can bet your life that my guitar strings are all neatly clipped.)

    The soldering, as I just mentioned, is a classy way to go, if a bit unnecessary and labor-intensive. And I agree the color options may be fun. Something to explore. Orange, anyone?

    @roger

    the fi'zi:k finish tape looks better legible from the front, not while mounted. you seem to be of both camps, frank.

    bullet point 1 is a pet peeve of mine. how some guys can have cables taped up forward of the bar, and the other side taped at the bottom position or rear, near palm, baffles me. no visual symmetry makes not a happy roger

    I'm a bit of a switch hitter on this; I've always done it to be legible from the front, but then decided I wanted to try it the other way. Which meant I retaped all my bikes. Its pleasant from the rider's position, but ultimately I think I do prefer it legible from the front.

  • @Gianni

    This applies to everything from our house, my workshop, my office, desk space, my computer desktop, my briefcase, Gianni's wallet and my bicycles' cable organization.


    Ah, yes. I forgot the wallet issue. All bills have to face the same direction, and all ordered from highest to lowest. The credit cards all go in opposite of the previous in order to increase the slimness of the package.

    I will not leave the register before all this is sorted out correctly.

    The ideal length is 1.5 times the length of the cable end... What does that mean? 1.5 times the housing diameter? Gianni confused.

    I mean that the distance from the bolt holding the cable to the beginning of the cable end should be .5 as long as the cable end. This is the perfect aesthetic balance and keeps things tidy by including the Proportion of V.

    We used to solder the cable end too but stainless cable is wicked hard to solder or we lost out touch. It did look very tidy though.

    This was, apparently, much more prevalent than I thought. Top marks all around. We really are the Velominati. It was written long ago.

  • I think we should add that the correct brake lever should go to the correct caliper

    and I will probably be whipped for this but I am not a huge fan of the v cogs on the handle bars.

  • @RedRanger

    I think we should add that the correct brake lever should go to the correct caliper

    and I will probably be whipped for this but I am not a huge fan of The V cogs on the handle bars.

    Me neither, they are gone already, to be replaced with matte black ones. Its just the only photo I had on hand with the correct routing.

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