I’ve got a couple of decent pumps (Silca and SKS) but what used to drive me nuts was the chuck/valve interaction, so I sorted that out with this awesome Hirama pump head. If like me you ever get frustrated by poor clamping/valve security from your pump find one of these bad boys – you will not regret it.

I have to admit, this thing is a pleasure. I even just love how it feels etc. Such a great piece of equipment, which is not shocking since it costs as much as most pumps.

I seriously distrust anything requiring a battery.

I also doubt that is the Merckx way. Love the ‘analogue’ gauge on my Lezyne floor pump.

Rule #5 for the rest.

(or should that be blower?)

I’ve got a couple of decent pumps (Silca and SKS) but what used to drive me nuts was the chuck/valve interaction, so I sorted that out with this awesome Hirama pump head. If like me you ever get frustrated by poor clamping/valve security from your pump find one of these bad boys – you will not regret it.

You are such a little bitch. I never knew I needed one because I never knew it existed! And now I have bought one because I can’t live another day without one.

Except I have to wait until some time between May 22 and May 28. Which seems impossible.

@frank

@Oli

I’ve got a couple of decent pumps (Silca and SKS) but what used to drive me nuts was the chuck/valve interaction, so I sorted that out with this awesome Hirama pump head. If like me you ever get frustrated by poor clamping/valve security from your pump find one of these bad boys – you will not regret it.

I love the Lezyne connecter but with all the valve extenders I use they do wear out (the threads wear out due to not going on squarely enough).

I am going on a fucking mission to find one of those, that looks beyond fantastic.

Or one of these:

Now you’ve gone and done it !  I dont need one of these, but I WANT one of these, and I shall have one.

I roll 110 psi on my 25mm Conti 4 seasons, have an old school gauge on my Topeak pump.

Does anyone else have to bleed the tube a bit before pumping? Otherwise the gauge red lines and air is caught between pump and stem?

Yep and it fucks me right off!

“A man with one watch knows what time it is…

… a man with two watches is never sure.”

– Some Smart Guy

Unless they both read the same time. Great quote all the same

@Oli

I’ve got a couple of decent pumps (Silca and SKS) but what used to drive me nuts was the chuck/valve interaction, so I sorted that out with this awesome Hirama pump head. If like me you ever get frustrated by poor clamping/valve security from your pump find one of these bad boys – you will not regret it.

I love the Lezyne connecter but with all the valve extenders I use they do wear out (the threads wear out due to not going on squarely enough).

I am going on a fucking mission to find one of those, that looks beyond fantastic.

Or one of these:

I’ve got a Zefal Husky that is nearing 28 years old.  Took some thought to think back to when I bought it.  The presta adapter died long ago, and I’ve been using brass adapters ever since.  Other than that, it’s been a champ.  I’ve been lusting after a new digital Lezyne, but can’t justify it.  Need to think of a reason to have two pumps.  Maybe one permanently indoors for sessions on the rollers…

In situations such as this I ask myself whether I need a good reason or just a reason. If it’s the latter then one to inflate front wheels and one to inflate rear wheels would be my starting point.

He has gone down and then back up in the odds today.

@Oli

I’ve got a couple of decent pumps (Silca and SKS) but what used to drive me nuts was the chuck/valve interaction, so I sorted that out with this awesome Hirama pump head. If like me you ever get frustrated by poor clamping/valve security from your pump find one of these bad boys – you will not regret it.

I love the Lezyne connecter but with all the valve extenders I use they do wear out (the threads wear out due to not going on squarely enough).

I am going on a fucking mission to find one of those, that looks beyond fantastic.

It’s beautiful and it’s a Kuwahara so it’s the next best thing to having ET blow your tyres up but is it £74 worth of beautiful, alien inflation?

I’ve got a couple of decent pumps (Silca and SKS) but what used to drive me nuts was the chuck/valve interaction, so I sorted that out with this awesome Hirama pump head. If like me you ever get frustrated by poor clamping/valve security from your pump find one of these bad boys – you will not regret it.

I love the Lezyne connecter but with all the valve extenders I use they do wear out (the threads wear out due to not going on squarely enough).

I am going on a fucking mission to find one of those, that looks beyond fantastic.

I’ve got a couple of decent pumps (Silca and SKS) but what used to drive me nuts was the chuck/valve interaction, so I sorted that out with this awesome Hirama pump head. If like me you ever get frustrated by poor clamping/valve security from your pump find one of these bad boys – you will not regret it.

Mmmm, chuck porn. I second @Oli‘s Hirame reverence.

@PT

Nice floorboards by the way.

Yes, we should have paid Gianni that compliment far earlier in this discussion.

How quickly we forget our manners.

Is it also possible that they are in fact, the boards of a velodrome? Or is Gianni just making a very subtle pun? Or am I over-thinking it horribly?

Check out the info on November bikes site. They have a really interesting blog on wheels in which they discuss aerodynamics, tyre pressure, stiffness and so on. The Pacenti rim gets a few mentions along with their carbon rims.

Nice floorboards by the way.

Yes, we should have paid Gianni that compliment far earlier in this discussion.

Can definitely feel the difference in rim width with the wheels in the hand, not sure I’ve noticed much difference in wheel performance specifically, cos there’s so many things about this bike that are better.

I’m also on the “bleed the valve first” bus.

23 or 25mm Vittoria Corsa EVO CX at 110psi at the moment.  Down from 120.

Speaking of pumps; does anyone here own a Silca Super Pista yet?

Tyres and pressure.

According to the chart I should run 70psi rear and 65psi front. I’m 63kg and running Conti 25mm. I use these pressures and I have never had a pinch flat. Magic carpet ride.

Yep, magic carpet riding with w/wider rim beds and higher volume/lower pressures indeed. I also believe in the aero benefits of the more continuous sidewall to rim profile and for no reason other than what I experience coasting down hills in groups. In my mind it is a concept proven.

I will say this however, and that is that I still enjoy running 23c’s at higher pressures on the more narrow Dura Ace wheel sets. It’s definitely not the same ride and kinda changes the character of the bike after I’ve grown a bit complacent with the ride/handling on HED+ wheels with larger volume tires. I’m guessing that maybe it’s some gyroscopic kinda thing going on.

I’ve gone all the way up to 30c tires but at that size it feels to me that the tires are creating more work to get on down the road. Did I read that some teams were racing 30c at PR (?) and if so, I can’t imagine racing on this size tire. Though I’ve been riding these on an I9 wheel set built up for CX and not the HEDs. So maybe its as much the wheels as the tires.

I roll 110 psi on my 25mm Conti 4 seasons, have an old school gauge on my Topeak pump.

Does anyone else have to bleed the tube a bit before pumping? Otherwise the gauge red lines and air is caught between pump and stem?

I found running my Conti 4 Seasons at 110 meant the would be more susceptible to splitting quicker. I run mine at 100psi and I’m a chunky 17 stone super clyde who rarely gets a snakebite puncture… (I’ve fucking kinxed myself there for tonights commute haven’t I? Offers up a sacrificial inner tube to the tyre Gods).

I had some wheels made up on Pacenti SL23 rims by Wheelworks. These rims are wider than “normal’, same concept as the HED wheels. They sent out a chart with suggested pressures with this preamble:

“The wide-rim concept of the rims used in your wheelset is designed to increase ride comfort and traction.

Critical to achieving these riding qualities is correct tyre pressure. The wider rim opens the tyre’s casing up increasing air volume inside the tyre. This increased volume allows the tyre can be run at a lower pressure without having an effect on rolling resistance or pinch-flat ability.

The lower tyre pressure and wider, rounder tyre improves the wheel’s traction and road-feel, especially when rolling into corners.”

According to the chart I should run 70psi rear and 65psi front. I’m 63kg and running Conti 25mm. I use these pressures and I have never had a pinch flat. Magic carpet ride.

I roll 110 psi on my 25mm Conti 4 seasons, have an old school gauge on my Topeak pump.

Does anyone else have to bleed the tube a bit before pumping? Otherwise the gauge red lines and air is caught between pump and stem?

Yes but if I forget then I just push down on the pump and the air pressure forces the valve.

Anyhoo, here’s my recently built up track bike. I realise that I need a less-yellow saddle, but it was cheap.

@Teocalli

@SamV

You are just going to have to put Heavy Water in your Bidons.

My Bidon has the answer for you !

I suspect some politicians have that written on their head somewhere (just with “bullshit” instead of “lead”).

@SamV

You are just going to have to put Heavy Water in your Bidons.

My Bidon has the answer for you !

I roll 110 psi on my 25mm Conti 4 seasons, have an old school gauge on my Topeak pump.

Does anyone else have to bleed the tube a bit before pumping? Otherwise the gauge red lines and air is caught between pump and stem?

It’s guaranteed that my tubes won’t take air if I don’t let a bit out first. I’m relieved to hear it’s not just me.

I’ll bet I’m also not the only who has a ritual of always doing one tyre before the other at a certain point in the pre-ride preparation.

Is Heavy Water the type of stuff the dopey fools drink that is laden with carbon footprint morality luggage because it was shipped around the world to your selfish hands?

Err…well….no.  Then again on the carbon footprint front it’s definitely worse, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heavy_water

@SamV

You are just going to have to put Heavy Water in your Bidons.

Fucking awesome. I’ll have the lab manager at work order some for me. Won’t the guys at the club be impressed when I roll up with radioactive refreshment.

You are just going to have to put Heavy Water in your Bidons.

@SamV

@Oli

@Teocalli

Jan Heine did that already: Tire drop/pressure graph

Neat article. Maybe I’m an idiot who can’t read charts, but at 54 kg’s total, it looks like I should be rolling my 25mm’s just shy of 50 psi each?! That seems mighty low to me…

Your bike, kit, bidon, etc. all weigh something, too.

True. My Bike weighs ~9kg including the wheels. The bidon is another kilo. Let’s call it 10 even. Even at 67kg (including kit, helmet, sunnies, shoes, tube, CO2, levers), we’re still talking 27/40 which is just north of 60 psi on the front and 70 psi on the back.

I should probably point out I’m an engineer, so I kind of make a living out of picky. Fortunately I’m also a cyclist so can appreciate the subtleties of getting one’s pressures just so, and always +5 psi in the rear tyre. Borrowing a TT bike at the weekend with a 24mm tub on the front and a 19mm on the rear just about fried my tiny mind though. I also (despite the sheer ridiculousness of it) have a deep lust for the Silca Ultimate. I can’t justify one but I need one.

My father is a mechanical engineer. I love running things by him that I read online or in a forum. Most of the time, he points out that they’re a load of BS.

I’m not too picky about tire pressure. The best thing I do each year for my cycling is getting rid of winter hibernation weight. Once that happens in spring, I feel much better and can get back to enjoying my rides. The obvious-yet-amazing thing is that if I’m eating right and sleeping right, everything else falls into place for me, from work to cycling.

My riding pal raves about a certain pump head that can go onto any floor pump. Can’t recall the make/name right now though, so I’m fucking useless.

Still using a basic Park Tool pump that my VMH got in Prague when she was living there. She thought Park Tool was an Asian company trying to sound Western, but not too edgy…

@Oli

@Teocalli

Jan Heine did that already: Tire drop/pressure graph

Neat article. Maybe I’m an idiot who can’t read charts, but at 54 kg’s total, it looks like I should be rolling my 25mm’s just shy of 50 psi each?! That seems mighty low to me…

Your bike, kit, bidon, etc. all weigh something, too.

With 25mm tires, one can experiment with lower pressure and not flirt too much with pinch flats. It’s just air; a very cheap way to dial in your ride.

Even I’ve dropped from my beloved 120 to 115 on my 26mm tires, and I have to say I notice the difference. For me, the biggest thing about lower pressure is that shitty tires (by that I mean anything less than FMB) start to flex under power when a fat guy is the one pushing on the pedals; so long as I’m not feeling the flex, I’m happy. (I mean the lateral flex, as in the flex in the direction of bicycle, when you push hard and you feel the rim and tire not move in unison but the tire slightly behind the rim. I can’t stand that when I’m huffing and puffing up some climb and the last thing I need to know is that some of my power is going into flexing a tire, not going uphill.)

But when I ride the 26ers at 120 I do notice that I’m getting bounced around more, and I do seem to go slower, or at least I seem to struggle a bit more on the same climbs.

Anyway, I love my Lezyne and I’m now interested in that gauge. My only complaint about their pumps is that with my valve extenders I sometimes can’t get the head on tightly, and wind up eventually stripping down the thread. But Branford Bike carries them so I just go get another one for $10.

@KogaLover

@Fausto

@Gianni

Pretty sure 3% error would mean you could be 3psi out at 100psi; percentages being exactly that…

/nitpicking

Yeah, I think you are right. So one could be off by 6 psi really. In the long run reproducibility is more important.

More likely: the 3% would mean something like “99% or 95% of all pumps of this type will be off by a max of 3%”. So it’s rather a sort of confidence intervals. Same applies to torque wrench I just bought. Not sure whether it’s 1.5% each side or 3% each side.

Oh jesus, 3% at 2 sigma. We have veered off the bike path into a boggy ditch. As I said, nothing is certain.

I should probably point out I’m an engineer, so I kind of make a living out of picky. Fortunately I’m also a cyclist so can appreciate the subtleties of getting one’s pressures just so, and always +5 psi in the rear tyre. Borrowing a TT bike at the weekend with a 24mm tub on the front and a 19mm on the rear just about fried my tiny mind though. I also (despite the sheer ridiculousness of it) have a deep lust for the Silca Ultimate. I can’t justify one but I need one.

@Fausto

@Gianni

Pretty sure 3% error would mean you could be 3psi out at 100psi; percentages being exactly that…

/nitpicking

Yeah, I think you are right. So one could be off by 6 psi really. In the long run reproducibility is more important.

More likely: the 3% would mean something like “99% or 95% of all pumps of this type will be off by a max of 3%”. So it’s rather a sort of confidence intervals. Same applies to torque wrench I just bought. Not sure whether it’s 1.5% each side or 3% each side.

Oh jesus, 3% at 2 sigma. We have veered off the bike path into a boggy ditch. As I said, nothing is certain.

I didn’t click because I read it the day it was published (and I’ve linked to it whenever a “this bike’s more comfy than that bike” argument here). I have to say I’m very pleased to hear so many Velominati pumping their tyres to sensible pressures that match their weight. Too much pressure and even a cotton FMB will feel like an Armadillo. Good tyres, latex tubes and 90psi of pressure, and my 8 year old all-aluminium frame will take me past 200km in comfort.

Lezyne pumps are the tits. Love the screw-on head. Had a gauge fail after three years of hard work, went for the cheap $12 analog replacement and – good as new.

@clarksonxc

@Teocalli @samv

I think that they are dividing up your total weight between the front and rear wheel, according to the percentages listed on the page above the chart.  Then once you calculate the front and rear wheel loading, you can match it to your tire size and get the recommended pressure from the chart.

Indeed but I believe @SamV‘s point is that if you split 54Kilo front and back he’d only need to blow into the tube to get it up to pressure on the chart.  Guess it would save on a track pump though.

That is my point. Believe it or not, I’m 54kg in my entirety. So per wheel, it’s roughly 25/29 front/back. Based on that chart I may as well wrap my rims in plastic wrap. I’m not saying the science is bad, but I am saying that there appear to be limitations to the scaleability of it. I’ve only just recently started experimenting with air pressure, but I don’t plan to go anywhere near that low. I’ve got but one set of wheels for the foreseeable future and I need to keep the rims off the pavement.

@Teocalli @samv

I think that they are dividing up your total weight between the front and rear wheel, according to the percentages listed on the page above the chart.  Then once you calculate the front and rear wheel loading, you can match it to your tire size and get the recommended pressure from the chart.

Indeed but I believe @SamV‘s point is that if you split 54Kilo front and back he’d only need to blow into the tube to get it up to pressure on the chart.  Guess it would save on a track pump though.

@unversio

@rfreese888

I roll 110 psi on my 25mm Conti 4 seasons, have an old school gauge on my Topeak pump.

Does anyone else have to bleed the tube a bit before pumping? Otherwise the gauge red lines and air is caught between pump and stem?

Sure, I usually tap the stem first and it allows the floor pump (Park Tool) to give an accurate reading.

Me too. Always a quick push on the valve before the pump chuck goes on. I roll at about 90 psi on Michelin Pro 4 Endurances.

Front 102 PSI and rear 107 PSI, 25mm Gatorskins, Mavic tubes, Conti hi-pressure rim tape on 2012 Open Pros. No flats in over 2 years with riding 100 to 200 miles every week — off and on. Also ride a tubular wheelset 32h GP4s with Conti Sprinters that are holding their reputation as well at 120 PSI.

I think that they are dividing up your total weight between the front and rear wheel, according to the percentages listed on the page above the chart.  Then once you calculate the front and rear wheel loading, you can match it to your tire size and get the recommended pressure from the chart.

@Gianni I’ve been thinking a long time about exactly that: a digital Lezyne pump. For what sounds like exactly the same reason. Cheers

@Oli

@Teocalli

Jan Heine did that already: Tire drop/pressure graph

Neat article. Maybe I’m an idiot who can’t read charts, but at 54 kg’s total, it looks like I should be rolling my 25mm’s just shy of 50 psi each?! That seems mighty low to me…

I think the key is that they are only measuring tyre drop.  You are going to have a min pressure to prevent the tyre rolling off the rim (for instance) and at the top end the pressure of a tyre can’t be linear for the heavyweights.  So I would expect an S curve in reality.  It is interesting the min recommended pressures that say Vittoria Corsa’s or Pave’s as stamped on the tyres is pretty high compared to what I would guess most folk ride – and certainly well above that chart.

@Teocalli

Jan Heine did that already: Tire drop/pressure graph

Neat article. Maybe I’m an idiot who can’t read charts, but at 54 kg’s total, it looks like I should be rolling my 25mm’s just shy of 50 psi each?! That seems mighty low to me…

@rfreese888

I roll 110 psi on my 25mm Conti 4 seasons, have an old school gauge on my Topeak pump.

Does anyone else have to bleed the tube a bit before pumping? Otherwise the gauge red lines and air is caught between pump and stem?

Sure, I usually tap the stem first and it allows the floor pump (Park Tool) to give an accurate reading.

Me too. Always a quick push on the valve before the pump chuck goes on. I roll at about 90 psi on Michelin Pro 4 Endurances.

@Teocalli

Jan Heine did that already: Tire drop/pressure graph

Interesting, thanks for that.  Glad to find it just about spots it for the pressures I ride.

I roll 110 psi on my 25mm Conti 4 seasons, have an old school gauge on my Topeak pump.

Does anyone else have to bleed the tube a bit before pumping? Otherwise the gauge red lines and air is caught between pump and stem?

Sure, I usually tap the stem first and it allows the floor pump (Park Tool) to give an accurate reading.

@Fausto

@Gianni

Pretty sure 3% error would mean you could be 3psi out at 100psi; percentages being exactly that…

/nitpicking

More likely: the 3% would mean something like “99% or 95% of all pumps of this type will be off by a max of 3%”. So it’s rather a sort of confidence intervals. Same applies to torque wrench I just bought. Not sure whether it’s 1.5% each side or 3% each side.

if that’s what they mean, they should say it. 3% error at 100psi is 3psi whichever way you look at it; whether it’s plus, minus or a bit either side needs to be clear (not that it matters TBH; I wouldn’t mind betting latex tubs will lose that over a race) – just throw some random numbers at it and hope no-one asks!

Jan Heine did that already: Tire drop/pressure graph

@Teocalli

Well, you are now, aren’t you? So what’s your take on that?

On rider weight?  Well if we assume that the tyre pressure relates to optimising the contact area and deflection of the tyre then a heavier rider would ride with a higher pressure than a lighter rider.  So the logical extension of that is that tyre manufacturers should produce a recommended weight/pressure chart similar to what you have with suspension set up on a mountain bike.

Well, you are now, aren’t you? So what’s your take on that?

Yup I always give the valve a nudge to free the seat before connecting a pump.

Does anyone else have to bleed the tube a bit before pumping? Otherwise the gauge red lines and air is caught between pump and stem?

@Gianni

Pretty sure 3% error would mean you could be 3psi out at 100psi; percentages being exactly that…

/nitpicking

More likely: the 3% would mean something like “99% or 95% of all pumps of this type will be off by a max of 3%”. So it’s rather a sort of confidence intervals. Same applies to torque wrench I just bought. Not sure whether it’s 1.5% each side or 3% each side.

Pretty sure 3% error would mean you could be 3psi out at 100psi; percentages being exactly that…

/nitpicking

He isn’t wrong about the paint. But he sort of buried the lede, I never got that far into his treatise.

“A man with one watch knows what time it is…

… a man with two watches is never sure.”

– Some Smart Guy

That’s what I’m talking about. And the guy with three watches has too many fucking watches.

@Gianni that infernal link demystifies everything we do here, tantamount to pulling back the curtain on Oz. It is abominable and the fact that no one looked at it is a testament to the strength of our collective belief. Bah!

You are wise. Yeah, no one is going to give that link three seconds worth of consideration, really.  But it does make the point that the paint is important. That guy is correct there.

… a man with two watches is never sure.”

– Some Smart Guy

@gianni- The Park and Silca only go 50psi too much for me…I run my track tires from 150 to 170psi depending on which wheels/tires I am running. Those guys at Track Worlds…they are pushing 200-210psi in their tires.

Holy Shiet! I stand corrected. That’s some rock hard tires. Thanks.

@Roobar

@Nate

@Gianni that infernal link demystifies everything we do here, tantamount to pulling back the curtain on Oz. It is abominable and the fact that no one looked at it is a testament to the strength of our collective belief. Bah!

Au contraire, my take on the article is that the psychological image of the bike is more important than the form, and by meditating upon, and applying, the rules a rider is freed to apply the V, firm in the knowledge that the bike is willing and only the flesh is weak.

Additionally the fact even the pro’s cant pick weight/flex/etc. means a properly prepared Tiagra equipped aluminium framed barely above BSO bike can beat a carbon fibre Super Record Pinarello if you free your mind and just apply V. Its only your mind holding you back, probably the ultimate application of the rules. Just don’t tell the VMH.

You mean, the famous quote by a little green bloke rings true ?

” Do, or do not, there is no try !”

Or maybe the quote by a somewhat larger Belgian bloke?

“Don’t buy upgrades. Ride up grades.”

@Nate

@Gianni that infernal link demystifies everything we do here, tantamount to pulling back the curtain on Oz. It is abominable and the fact that no one looked at it is a testament to the strength of our collective belief. Bah!

Au contraire, my take on the article is that the psychological image of the bike is more important than the form, and by meditating upon, and applying, the rules a rider is freed to apply the V, firm in the knowledge that the bike is willing and only the flesh is weak.

Additionally the fact even the pro’s cant pick weight/flex/etc. means a properly prepared Tiagra equipped aluminium framed barely above BSO bike can beat a carbon fibre Super Record Pinarello if you free your mind and just apply V. Its only your mind holding you back, probably the ultimate application of the rules. Just don’t tell the VMH.

You mean, the famous quote by a little green bloke rings true ?

” Do, or do not, there is no try !”

@Gianni that infernal link demystifies everything we do here, tantamount to pulling back the curtain on Oz. It is abominable and the fact that no one looked at it is a testament to the strength of our collective belief. Bah!

Au contraire, my take on the article is that the psychological image of the bike is more important than the form, and by meditating upon, and applying, the rules a rider is freed to apply the V, firm in the knowledge that the bike is willing and only the flesh is weak.

Additionally the fact even the pro’s cant pick weight/flex/etc. means a properly prepared Tiagra equipped aluminium framed barely above BSO bike can beat a carbon fibre Super Record Pinarello if you free your mind and just apply V. Its only your mind holding you back, probably the ultimate application of the rules. Just don’t tell the VMH.

However, reading above, maybe its not 95 at all.

BTW my bike has a 130mm stem and it seemed to long, especially when I compare it to modern bikes, which seem to have quite short stems (and perhaps that makes them feel more lively). However I got my bike back after a service and the mechanic adjusted the angle of the handle bars (they had twisted down quite a bit and I hadn’t noticed) upwards, and the bike felt totally different and the stem didnt seem so long.