Categories: The Bikes

Front Chainrings and The Theory of Relativity

The old rings.

Disregarding my Schwinn Typhoon, I started keeping score with my 1976 Peugeot PX 10 LE. It came with a Stronglight 52 x 45 and a 14 x 21 five speed freewheel. I always thought this Peugeot was set up for the pavé of northern France with those gears and wire-wrapped and soldered 3x tubular wheels. Yet according to Peugeot’s advertising, this is what the boys rode in the Tour de France. Chapeau! Since this was my first real bike, the coolness of this Rule #5 rig was lost on me. The uncoolness of Mafac brakes and Simplex derailleurs was not lost on me and over time I swapped out many of the French components for Campagnolo ones but the Stronglight crankset was worthy and it stayed the longest. I found a drilled-out 42 inner ring. Surely Bernard Thévenet would approve of that. It was not such a taskmaster as the 45 and scored very high on the cool scale.

Eventually the 52s went to 53s and the 42s to 39s and there they stayed.

Post-Peugeot I lived on the sandy moraine called Cape Cod. It is rolling, easy-to-ride country; there were no steep, long climbs and the default 39 inner ring was too small for the Cape. Some switched back to 42s but our LBS had a handful of Campagnolo 44 tooth inner rings and a few of us installed them. It didn’t occur to me at the time but I was reverting to a more modern version of my original Peugeot gears. This was not a chainring for the early season but once summer arrived, it made perfect sense. The shifts between the front two chainrings were subtle and smooth. It was all good until we ventured over to a proper climb on the nearby island of Martha’s Vineyard. That climb, known to us as the hill-o-death, started off steep and never eased (this was pre-Garmin world, an estimated 15% grade). It actually was the kind of climb where if you were going to have a heart attack, it would be here. The 44 worked, it just meant most of it was done out of the saddle and the pain cave entrance was lower down. But, it may have been a faster way to get the job done. There was no in-the-saddle spinning going on; it was just more heaving of bike and body trying to turn over the shortest gear the 44 would give up.

I came to Maui armed with the 53 x 39. Earlier on Kauai, I once felt shame and horror as an older dude with stick legs passed me on the Waimea Canyon climb. Those sorry sticks were whizzing over a vile compact crankset. It gave me pause. But on Maui the 53 x 39 got the job done, until I did Maui’s version of the hill-o-death, The Wall. I got up it, but it wasn’t pretty or easy. Something was going to break doing that: knees, heart, chain, pedal, more likely part of me, rather than the bike. I was on Maui for the long haul and the Wall was not going anywhere so I opted for a compact crank.

My above prologue leads me to this, my theory of relativity. The terrain dictates the chainrings. You want a 52 x45 on your bike, stay away from the Pyrenees. If you have a compact crankset on there, there had better be some big ass climbs out your front door. But here at Velominati we like to quantify our suffering. My math is as weak as my VAM but I’m working on a calculation with correction factors which would determine what kind of crank one should have on their bike.

((GLx %Gr) 1/age) Bf x BPf x Df

Where:

GL = length of toughest grade encountered on Sunday ride.

Gr = Steepest sustained section of GL.

B = Belgian Factor, also known as Museeuw. The need to always ride in the large ring, always.

BPf = Big Pussy Factor, inverse of Bf. The inclination when a climb begins to sit when one might stand, to shift down rather than up.

Df = The Dutch factor, this is a terrain correction for sea level riding, as the Dutch do along the North Sea.

 

 

Gianni

Gianni has left the building.

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  • @Deakus

    Great article....you had me, right up until the introduced the maths!

    I'll be busted as soon as a math person shows up.

    @Teocalli  I think the V was stronger in everyone back then. Everyone had a straight block and raced nearly everything with it.

    When I get the bike back on the road I have a vision of that moment when the guns give up and I fall sideways to the ground. Just leave me on the bike and bury me here please just as I landed..

    me too. People can ride by and touch the brim of their cap. ta.

  • @Gianni

    me too. People can ride by and touch the brim of their cap. ta.

    In fact that might be a great way to go.  Can you imagine an archeologist finding the burial in a couple of thousand years time and deciding it must be a warrior of a long lost cycling tribe.  However, the way we are treating the word it's more likely we will just be part or an ants nest as the insects are probably going to be the only survivors.

  • @Gianni

    @Chris

    @ChrisO

    Two bikes, one standard, one compact.

    Horses for courses.

    Damn, that is the easy solution to all this.

    Four - don't forget you have to double up for winter bikes...........

  • Perhaps I'm crazy but I've never fussed with the chainrings that have come on my bikes and the only crankset I've purchased a la carte has been a 53/39.  So I have a 50/34 on Bike #1, a 53/39 on Bike # 2, a 52/42 on Bike #3 (that currently lives on the indoor trainer), a 46/36 on the CX bike and then another 52/42 that's on the town bike.  I'm too fucking lazy to figure out the math as to which, if any of those, are appropriate.

  • Bike #1 Compact 50/34. Bike #2 Standard 53/39.

    Bike #1 for more adventurous rides in the middle of the year. Bike #2 for colder months. I confess, I need the 34 on Britain's short but steep hills and the 50 let's me run a better chain angle onto the rear sprockets when rolling along the flats.

  • In Japan, I am 30 minute's ride from the mountains. We have everything from short, 2k climbs at 8% to 20k at 6%. On every climb, though, there always seems to be a Wall (or "Cowface" we call it) that is 100 to 200m at a ridiculous 20%. I guess Japanese cars are great at going up hill. However, it's not uncommon for seeing pros here on compacts with 28 or 32 large cog. I was riding standards with 11-28 for a couple of months before I decided to get a compact. Best decision I made.

  • @DeKerr Acually I've a bottle in the back of the jersey! You can tame it but you can not beat human physiology (especially in Summer).

  • Flemish compact with an 11-26 cassette works for everything here in norcal.  Most climbs are 5-10% and 3+ km's long.  Anything over 15% takes a good grunt, but it's not unrideable.  I think about 20% is my limit with that gearing.

    The cx bike has 42-39 on the front and 11-28 in the back.  Grip starts to become the limiting factor here but Garmin tells me I've made it up 25% hills before.

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