What’s your ride number?

Eight point V bar. From the moment I bought my first set of high quality road clinchers, I’ve ridden at that pressure. I started with that number because that’s the pressure the sidewall told me to pump them up to; I didn’t yet understand much about balancing the benefits of high and low pressures to optimize comfort and friction; I just pumped them up as instructed and off I went merrily down the road.

I’m not as thin as I’d like to be, which is the same thing as saying I’m fatter than I should be, though I certainly hope I climb well for my weight, especially as my third (and hopefully charmed) ascent up Haleakala is looming large in Vajanuary. The point is, I’m not a whippet and even if I starved myself for the next five months and subsist exclusively on IPAs (I draw the line at cutting beer out of my theoretical diet; I might get desperate, but I’m no savage) I’d still be an Eros Poli at best. Being a big guy, the only factor that mattered to me when it came to tire pressure was avoiding the pinch flats that plagued me during my time riding cheaper tires and that meant maximum pressure, no questions asked.

We always dialed our pressure in for Mountain biking and would pull a few pounds out of our road tires when riding in the rain, but by and large, tire pressure was tire pressure, and as far as I was concerned, more was better. I even had a set of 20mm tires on a makeshift TT bike I had that I blew up to a whopping 10 bar. In the last few years, however, the Cycling world has become obsessed with doing the limbo and seeing how low they can go on tire pressure. It all began with an article in Bicycle Quarterly which conducted an extensive and flawed study on the effects of tire pressure and tire width, and concluded that lower pressure and wider tires are faster and more comfortable than high pressure, narrow tires; the idea is that lower pressure allows small bumps to be absorbed by the tire rather than bouncing the bicycle (and rider) in the air, and that wide tires flex more efficiently than narrow tires resulting in lower rolling resistance. Its important to remember that this gain in comfort and efficiency also comes with an increased risk of pinch flats.

This is all well and good, of course, though we always have to be careful to remember the basic principles of such a compromise; lower pressure and wider tires also mean an enlarged surface area which necessarily means more friction; a perfectly hard, narrow tire on a perfectly smooth surface would have almost zero friction, to the point that you’d be unable to gain enough traction to actually move the bicycle at all. What we’re after, in a practical sense, is a balance between the two extremes which optimizes comfort and tire efficiency against reduced surface area and the risk of pinch flats.

I became infected with Tire Pressure Fever myself as the Cycling world became increasingly obsessed with tire pressure. Down went the pressure in my tires and immediately I felt sluggish and lethargic on the bike. Climbing out of the saddle, I could feel the tires flex as I unleashed the Awesome Devastation of the Toothpicks of Navarone. Cornering was like steering in molasses; turn the bars, weight the pedals and then wait a few moments while the bike got round to responding.

These observations first had me reaching for the pump and then got me theorizing about what is really going on with tire pressure and what pressure is right for a given rider. I say “theorizing”, but most other people would use something closer to “guessing assertively”. But that doesn’t mean I’m wrong.

Basically, it comes down to finding the highest pressure and narrowest tire you can that gives a rider of your weight the right amount of tire flex such that your bike isn’t bouncing as it rolls over the tarmac and allows it to roll efficiently, all while minimizing surface area, risk of punctures, and sidewall deformation when accelerating (cornering and climbing are basically the same as accelerating; the acceleration vector is just in some other direction than forward.) This means that each rider at each weight with different preferences on the sliding scale between the above compromises will find a different optimal pressure. Impressed by Tom Boonen’s tire pressure at Roubaix? Tread carefully; that pressure was dialed in based on very specific criteria and unless you’re eating the same cobbles and weigh the same as he does, you’ll need a different pressure to find the same balance. Bicycle Quarterly has a chart that shows what they believe to be the ideal pressure by rider weight, though I don’t believe a word of it; I do however entertain the possibility that I could be missing something based on the fact that I didn’t actually read the article.

Me? I’m still happily riding at 8 point V. I’m comfortable, I’m not flatting, and I’ve got good control. Besides, it just has a nice ring to it.

frank

The founder of Velominati and curator of The Rules, Frank was born in the Dutch colonies of Minnesota. His boundless physical talents are carefully canceled out by his equally boundless enthusiasm for drinking. Coffee, beer, wine, if it’s in a container, he will enjoy it, a lot of it. He currently lives in Seattle. He loves riding in the rain and scheduling visits with the Man with the Hammer just to be reminded of the privilege it is to feel completely depleted. He holds down a technology job the description of which no-one really understands and his interests outside of Cycling and drinking are Cycling and drinking. As devoted aesthete, the only thing more important to him than riding a bike well is looking good doing it. Frank is co-author along with the other Keepers of the Cog of the popular book, The Rules, The Way of the Cycling Disciple and also writes a monthly column for the magazine, Cyclist. He is also currently working on the first follow-up to The Rules, tentatively entitled The Hardmen. Email him directly at rouleur@velominati.com.

View Comments

  • I experimented with this extensively over the last year.  I basically pumped my tires up to 120 and then didn't add air until I would occasionally feel the rim hit the ground on bumps.  

     

    Results:

    I did this for a year and have nothing to add to the conversation other than the fact that I did it and continue to do it mostly due to laziness now.  Only pinch flatted once when I didn't see a large rock in the dappled sunlight.

  • Frankly Frank as long as the rims aren't running on the tar I'm fine! Being probably even worse than most of you in the "too fat to climb" camp (215lbs when toweled bone dry, and it's not like I can blame freakishly overdeveloped biceps and pecs) sometimes even 10bar wouldn't be enough to stop the black bits bulging.

  • I've settled on 7 on the front and 8 on the back. They probably drop to around 6 and 7 bar before they get pumped up again.

    I'm currently riding 25mm's on my now N2 and will do for the rest of the winter, the bigger the cushion the sweeter the pushing.

    My new N1 has got Conti Attack / Force that are 22mm on the front & 24mm on the back. The bike is fast but I'm undecided on them.

  • I prefer something closer to 7 point oh V bar.  I don't think it was mentioned (I didn't read very carefully) but the front tire gets about point V less bar than the rear.

  • Nice one, Franki Poli! And really slick lead photo. Mmm, low profile rims & plenty o' spokes.

    I've actually never been that concerned with tire pressure. I inflated until they feel pretty darn hard to the squeeze, far from scientific, and then head out. I know, a potentially unacceptable method for a Follower. I do inflated my front tire less but in general I ignore the dial on the Park Tool pump since I don't know if it's that accurate. Then again, I ain't so big which might make pinch flats less of a concern. I do however remember my first pinch flat on a road bike, which occurred on a sidewalk in Washington, DC. That'll teach me to ride on darn sidewalks.

    I do now pay more attention to tire pressure on my CX bike, set up tubeless. Oh, and I think I'll try out some 25s next time I invest in new tires. For now I have a big stock of 23 mm road tires.

    Michael, your method has me feeling a lot less bad about myself...

  • If only all the tubes, if you will, who rode on pavements (or sidewalks if you prefer) got pinch flats then the world would be a better place.

    Ron,

    That is a perfectly acceptable way of checking tyre (note TYRE) pressure, if they were bigger as in a farm tractor size I would kick them but I don't want to risk damaging my baby. So I use the squeeze test as well, but I'm not sure if I should recalibrate the pinch between wearing mitts and full on winter gloves.

  • rule of thumb to start from: 1 bar for each 10kg of rider's weight. easy!

    @motor city i'm also running the conti force / attack set. 8 bar in front, 7 point V on the back. great grip cornering!

  • I got turned on to 25mm tires a few years ago and have never looked back. I ride both clincher and tubular 25s.  High quality 25s are nearly as light as 23s but they roll faster, corner better and last longer than thinner tires. The extra comfort doesn't hurt either. I've tried 28s but got that sluggish feeling from the front end trail getting all goofed up. Next set you buy, get 25s.

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