The conundrum for the Cyclist (but not the bike rider) presents itself daily. We try to keep ourselves safe every time we get on our bikes, and we want to achieve a balance between form and function. Sometimes function wins, though mostly it’s form with the upper hand. A YJA isn’t going to protect you if you’re already under the wheels of a car, and will do little to prevent you from getting there. Likewise a helmet, yet it is considered an essential item, whereas a fluoro anything will (should) quickly be dismissed.

Like a helmet, lights are one of those essentials that we wouldn’t think of riding without. When we go out on our bikes after dusk, I’d bet that lights will always be reached for before, or instead of, a YJA. The commuter will buy either the cheapest and therefore weakest light set, or go to the other end of the spectrum and get the most powerful lights they can find for the meagre amount of cash they are willing to spend. The middle ground seems to be largely ignored, possibly because someone spending $100 on a headlight will more likey be tempted to spend an extra fifty to double the output. This is where it gets tricky.

Because being seen is the most useful thing for a night rider, more power and more lumens are coveted. With the tech available now, a super-powerful light can be bought for a fraction of what they cost even a few years ago. Lumens are increasingly hitting over the 2000 mark. Batteries charge quicker, run longer and weigh bugger-all. These lights are what we coveted back in the 90s when we first discovered how much fun riding through the bush in darkness was. And it was dark; the Halogen bulbs and brick-like Ni-Cad batteries doing their best but falling well short of adequate output for snaking through trees and down rutted singletrack descents. As the technology moved on to LED and Li-Ion, prices first skyrocketed but then rapidly fell as more small manufacturers got it on the action. Now we could light up the trails like daytime and not have to carry an extra five kilos to achieve it.

Then the commuters got wind of these cheap, powerful, bright lights. Why spend $100 for a 150 lumen job when $200 will get you an 800 lumen hole-burner? Geez, for another $60-100 you can almost double the power. Because you can’t put a price on safety and peace of mind, especially if you ride your bike in traffic every day, it makes sense to have good equipment. So here’s that tricky part: what if the gear you bought to keep you safe was actually putting you in the way of more harm than good? What if that light does a brilliant job of illuminating dark backroads, but conversely is too much for urban use? The trouble with these high-powered lights is they are designed with off-road riding in mind, where mega-lumens are king, where you need to be able to light every nook and cranny that the trail presents. And they’re brilliant at that.

When these lights find their way onto a road or commuter bike, however, it’s a clear case of overkill. 1500 lumens is way too much for the road, especially in built-up areas. If you’re out in the desert or boondocks, perfect; it’s when they’re unleashed in traffic that problems arise. Cars have high and low beams for a simple reason. If you are looking into a bright light coming towards you, you will be impaired and at risk of being temporarily blinded, not good when you are in control of a two-tonne vehicle. Hence drivers are required to dip their lights when 200m away from oncoming traffic. Bike riders are not. So they hit the high beam, get the strobe effect going, and feel safe in their perceived bubble. Meanwhile, everyone else is impaired and endangered by them. Off-road lights shouldn’t be on road-going bicycles. It’s like a redneck with those huge spotlights on their truck, driving around town with each one blazing. And can you imagine the chaos if car headlights had a strobe function?

Drivers don’t need any more reasons to get pissed off at cyclists; in fact they don’t need any it seems. When I’m in my car, or on my bike at night and am blinded by an oncoming cyclist, it’s usually by a high-powered light set to strobe. The brightness is one thing to deal with, but the strobing effect really intensifies the effect and more worringly diminishes the driver’s ability to correctly judge the distance that the bike is away from them. It’s near impossible. On a recent after-dark road ride with @Bianchi Denti, we encountered an oncoming rider at least 300 metres away, travelling toward us; we were pretty much sheilding our eyes and having to look off to the side of the road not to be blinded. It was ridiculous. When I offered that the flash and brightness was dangerous, we were met with a hail of expletives along the lines of “yeah whatever, why should I be unsafe”. Well, having a vision-impaired truck driver hurtling towards him might be the wake-up call he needed.

 

*Keep the lumens under 300-400 for road: It’s more than enough for the darkest backroads, and you can drop the beam lower in built-up areas. A small USB-rechargeable light is less bulky, all-in-one (no extra battery pack) and does a stellar job.

*Don’t flash: This is the worst feature ever for a headlight. It’ll disorient drivers and other riders, and how anyone doesn’t get a migraine from riding with that thing flashing constantly I’ll never know. They probably do. Have a solid beam at all times, and if you really want something flashing, make sure it’s a small output and is mounted fairly close to the solid beam light as well.

*Flash at the back if you must: Except if you’re riding in a bunch and someone has to stare at your light for prolonged periods. Then use a solid beam or a low-frequency pulse. And if you must flash, then keep it simple and use a basic on/off pattern. Those disco-light patterns with eight different LEDs doing various things? Ridiculous, and another enabler of motorist condemnation.

*Helmet-mounted lights are awesome: For mountain biking! It allows you to project light where your bars may not be pointing, essential for trail riding at night. For the road: ridiculous. All they do is give the impression that there’s a low-flying plane coming in to land on the highway, and when you look directly at drivers, well, you know what happens…

*”I didn’t see you.”: Yes, even with your bike lit up like a disco, drivers/pedestrians/other riders may not see you. No matter how safe you think you are being, how many lights you have, how bright your YJA, you still need to be attentive and assume everyone is out to run you over. And if you read the comments on any online story of Cyclist and driver interaction, a lot of them probably would.

 

 

Brett

Don't blame me

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  • @extra special and bitter

    Excellent idea regarding the downward pointing light on the seat tube. I think I'll give that a try.

    In relation to headlights sometimes I think drivers are more responsive to the moving arc of light that is cast by the light and illuminates the road (rather than the actual headlight itself), so it makes sense to cast a tight circle of light around you on the road.

    I might've expressed that inelegantly but hopefully not to the point of incomprehension.

  • @Al__S

    I’m doing the Dunwich Dynamo (for the first time). Don’t want to run them too bright on that, I fear lighting up the countryside will just encourage a crowd of poorly-equipped wheel suckers!

    Quite. I very nearly came off, riding the DD two years ago - when some blinking bright bulb arrived suddenly on my shoulder, in a pitch dark section.

    I'm riding it for the second time, at the weekend. Looks likely to be very warm, with chance of storms (grin) so the moon will probably be of little help.

    The small self-contained USB rechargeable light is the perfect solution I think (on steady beam, except when commuting in traffic near dusk or dawn).

    The Lezyne Macro current model seems to me well designed, in that it's got two modes:

    • (standard) cycles through various differently bright and/or blinking patterns
    • (race mode) alternates simply, at a press of the button, between "economy" (100 lumens) steady, and brightest possible (400 lumens) steady, and that's all.

    I think the latter mode will work nicely on the DD at the weekend. When following (near or distant) tail-lights, I found 100 lumens to be both plenty, and socially appropriate.

    The train only needs a big light on the locomotive: only when you find yourself alone or at the front of a group, on unlit twisty roads at 2am, do you need more. 300 lumens felt just about enough for that, on the DD 2013 (Exposure light; conked out recently). But that was only ever for a few minutes at a time; and sparsely. New Lezyne Macro is closer to 400 lumens and claims 8 hours on economy when new (let's say, 6) and 1.5 hours on full.

    A basic secondary front light will serve until 10:30pm or so, then act as backup. The brighter light's charge then only needs to make it through until daylight; which comes well before 5am.

    The rear light does not need to be a very bright one (and should not be). Any car driver will have already passed a lot of other cyclists before you, so will definitely be on the lookout (or taking some other route). But some visibility of lights from the side of the bike, is very important.

    If riding with other people, arrange somehow to be uniquely recognisable in the dark! There'll be lots of similarly clad people on similar, similarly lit bikes; so you'll see a fair amount of additional illuminations. These serve the double purposes of fun, and identification. Of course the penny-farthing or dog transport etc stand out sufficiently by themselves.

  • @piwakawaka

    @Ron

    don’t flash @Ron!

    The light has 70 lumens on high. During daylight I really don't think it's bright enough for motorists to see me. Why not use it on flash? I definitely think it helps drivers see me.

  • @Joe

    Now if we could get the caged idjits to turn their lights on when it’s raining . . .

    Argh, yes, I spend many days in winter and during summer storms telling the fucking drivers to put their lights on. I almost feel like some people are so fucking stupid they think leaving them off saves gas or money or something. When every single other fucking driver has their lights on, how does it not strike them to put theirs on?

  • Any ideas for rear lights for aero seat tubes?  I like and use the big cateyes, but I'd like a smaller, USB chargeable one for backups and wet, 'orrible races.  I think the Lezynes and Knogs are out...any other ideas?

  • @simon

    Any ideas for rear lights for aero seat tubes?  I like and use the big cateyes, but I’d like a smaller, USB chargeable one for backups and wet, ‘orrible races.  I think the Lezynes and Knogs are out…any other ideas?

    Serfas Thunderbolt. Weather proof. Bright. USB chargeable. Attaches with rubber straps, can be fit on any bike/tube.

    I use a Planet Bike Super Flash on my saddle or post, can fit the Thunderbolt on the seat stay or elsewhere in winter conditions for two rear lights.

  • Having been taken out in broad daylight in a classic SMIDSY, and coming within millimetres from meeting my maker (fractured C1, thank you very much) I am a huuuuge advocate of a bright flasher during daylight hours. And since a wee steady light during the evening peak hour Sydney commute just blends in, if not absolutely pointless, is sitting right next to pointless, sharing its popcorn and backwashing in its Coke.

    Having said that, the key is simply not being a douche. Turn the light to dim  (or drape the hand over it in a casual fashion) when stopped in traffic, or coming face to face with someone on a narrow road, and aim about 5m ahead of the bike.

    A balance can be struck between being visible and being overly annoying without being a danger to others. Advocating a blanket ban on flashers is simply a misguided polemic.

  • @Ron

    While we're on the subject of aero shaped components, same question for headlights for aero handlebars? I hope to get the miner's light off my mate's helmet. I'm sick of being blinded everytime I do a shoulder check with him on my wheel.

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