The Bikes

The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.

It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.

The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.

If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.

  • Rule #12 and the Cascade EffectRule #12 and the Cascade Effect
    That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, ...
  • Guest Article: Black Is Not The New BlackGuest Article: Black Is Not The New Black
     @kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
  • Dialing in the StableDialing in the Stable
    This was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
  • Matching the drapes to the rugMatching the drapes to the rug
    As a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
  • Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the HourFestum Prophetae: Waiting for the Hour
    Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...

15,871 Replies to “The Bikes”

  1. @frank

    FMBs are great but they are expensive, well at least for me. 400 km on cobbles is what 3-4 rides here. However given that puncture protection belt on FMBs is almost nonexistent they hold up really well. It’s because of the quality of the rubber used, production and ageing process.

  2. @teleguy57

    There is really no need to apologize mate. You will get it to perfection eventually but now enjoy riding it. Like I said depending on the bar tape and shifters position it can be tricky to get that bar tape to sit perfect.

  3. @Mark1 Are those the yeoleo rims?  I’m in the market for that type of rim – be good to hear what they’re like with a few rides under your belt.

  4. Hmmm decisions decisions.  I’ve been offered a new (2013 model) BMC GF01 with Ultegra Di2 groupsan for 1/3 off list price by my LBS.  Their look isn’t everyone’s cup of tea but I’m thinking about the possibilities of commuter, long day rides for my sketchy middle aged back, part time graveur for fun, and a possible excuse to visit Flanders for my 50th in a couple of years. Hmmm decisions decisions.

  5. Absolutely cannot figure out what is going on with my Red right shifter, hoping someone might have some ideas.

    About two months old, on my cx race bike. It’s a NOS 2012 SRAM sent me to replace a broken Force. Installed it with new cables and housing, smooth paddle movement, worked great. Broken RD, replaced it, back to riding. The paddle got progressively stiffer and harder to shift. Then I lost shifting ability. Looking inside I could see the cable head would come unseated at the cam so as it turned, it wasn’t pulling cable.

    Installed new cables and housing, making sure not to kink the cable. Paddle works great in the stand with cable unattached. One hour rain ride on road/gravel path yesterday. Shifting was kinda smooth at first, then got really stiff and hard to move. Then I’d click to upshift and get no response, requiring 3-4 clicks for a one-cog jump.

    I’m thoroughly confused. New cables and housing, none of the bends are that tight in the routing, don’t think I’ve ridden enough in mud to muck up the insides. The shifting is at best stiff, requiring two fingers and a serious push, at worst, mostly unresponsive.

    Never had anything like this with my other shifters (non-SRAM) but I simply cannot seem to get the right shifting well for more than a run through in the stand.

  6. @Ron Did you make sure to run the cable through the little guide/track underneath the derailleur? I had the same problem once when I first started riding SRAM after I recabled the first time. I came straight out of the housing to the cable nut, missing the guide that redirects the cable and works as a pulley essentially. Took me a while to sort out and felt like a dumbass when I did but it’s easy enough to do.

  7. @Mark1

    @Barracuda

    Hi @Barracuda, I built the wheels myself. Open mould 38mm tubular rims, Tune Mag 170 Mig 180 hubs with Tune DC-14 quick release skewers, Sapim CX-Ray spokes finished off with a pair of Vittoria Corsa CX tyres. Came in at 1,150 gms excluding tyres of course.

    Very nice looking wheels.  Can you tell me what rims you bought?  Looking to build up a set of either 38-40mm or 50-56mm tubulars for myself.

  8. @teleguy57 Really cool bike. I’ll ride Ti someday. Those ENVE forks are the business. I gotta ask though, how can you live with the bar tape gaps in the bends under the hoods? Those are the bane of my wrapping existence.

  9. @marko

    @teleguy57 Really cool bike. I’ll ride Ti someday. Those ENVE forks are the business. I gotta ask though, how can you live with the bar tape gaps in the bends under the hoods? Those are the bane of my wrapping existence.

    Thanks @Marko.  Ti is a sweet ride.  Had a choice between the Enve and Falz, and while I like the smooth curve on the Falz the Enve has a bit more clearance.  I can run Ultremo ZX 28s on a 23mm rim (tires measure out at a hair over 29mm) with Campagnolo SR dual pivots and still have acceptable (albeit a minimal 3mm) of clearance.

    As I’ve posted elsewhere, this was V1 of the build.  NDS wrap job went fine and looks good.  DS wrap in the photo wasn’t to my standards either, but since I was antsy to get out for the inagural voyage and I knew I’d likely be tuning bar/lever position a bit I left it as is for a short time.  My faux pas in posting that pic here…   Have had two rides so far and one more lever adjustment to make, then the final wrap takes place.

    It is a pain to get the wrap around the levers right; I like the fig 8 wrap and eschew the piece of tape over the clamp.  Does make it more challenging to get the aesthetics right….

  10. Since I’ve finally taken the opportunity to ride up Mount Hamilton, I tried to get a Rule #26 compliant photo, but I realize that my Rule #29 violation may negate my attempts at Rule #26 compliance.  Anyway… Here’s my new beauty in the wild:

  11. @marko

    @Ron Did you make sure to run the cable through the little guide/track underneath the derailleur? I had the same problem once when I first started riding SRAM after I recabled the first time. I came straight out of the housing to the cable nut, missing the guide that redirects the cable and works as a pulley essentially. Took me a while to sort out and felt like a dumbass when I did but it’s easy enough to do.

    Hi Marko,

    I think so. I’ve looked at the tech docs and photos as well. I think the cable should a) come out of the barrel adjuster (area) b) be routed under the slotted arm/wing c) go around the clamp bolt on the high/outer/visible side and then emerge kinda pointing towards the crankset, along the chain stay.

    I really am confused by what is going on. I’m going to ride a pals Red equipped bike around the block tonight and see how his shifts in order to compare.

  12. @Simon

    @Mark1 Are those the yeoleo rims? I’m in the market for that type of rim – be good to hear what they’re like with a few rides under your belt.

    Hi @Simon, got it in one. Only done 50 dry miles on them so far but the Welsh roads are far from perfect and all good so far. Combined with Swiss Stop yellows braking is solid and predictable – I’ll keep you posted.

  13. @teleguy57

    @Mark1

    @Barracuda

    Hi @Barracuda, I built the wheels myself. Open mould 38mm tubular rims, Tune Mag 170 Mig 180 hubs with Tune DC-14 quick release skewers, Sapim CX-Ray spokes finished off with a pair of Vittoria Corsa CX tyres. Came in at 1,150 gms excluding tyres of course.

    Very nice looking wheels. Can you tell me what rims you bought? Looking to build up a set of either 38-40mm or 50-56mm tubulars for myself.

    Sure, they came from Yoeleo, standard width tubulars. See above – all good so far but early days.

  14. Thoughts ?  help ?    Surely my 12 month old DA C24’s should not have this happening.

  15. @marko – I’m really loving it so far. The brakes have a LOT of stoppiness to ’em for sure! My ride on Saturday has really cemented the deal for me. This guy was very comfortable going up and coming down. I’m really looking forward to getting many miles on it. =)

  16. @Barracuda  – Are those carbon or aluminum? Either way, I agree with Red on this. Check to see if they’re covered under warranty.

  17. @Barracuda

    Thoughts ? help ? Surely my 12 month old DA C24″²s should not have this happening.

    I’m not a doctor, but I’d say your rims are fucked. Stop riding them and take them to the LBS where you bought them.

  18. @Barracuda

    I’ve seen this on my c24’s which are also young. It is just the clear coat coming off, nothing strucutural to worry about. In my case, the coat is peeling under when I put the tie downs for 2x1000kms trips. On the first trip I put tape on the rims to stop the straps scratching only when I pulled the tape, it took the paint with it. On the second trip, I put some creame on the rim first to prevent the tape sticking… it still screwed up the clear coat. I now put a piece of high density foam between the stap and the rims.

    In your case, it seems to have happened without cause so by all means try for a warranty. I never bothered assuming they’d reject the claim based on mal treatment.

  19. @Xyverz

    @Barracuda – Are those carbon or aluminum? Either way, I agree with Red on this. Check to see if they’re covered under warranty.

    They are both. Alloy brake track/bread, structural back.

  20. @Mark1 Beauty, thanks Mark.  Guessing the Welsh roads are pretty similar to NZ ones – full of potholes, wet, covered in shit and sheep…if they’re OK there…

  21. @Barracuda If that is carbon you can use a coin and perform a tap test. if the sound is different from the “good” part to the “bad” part, you have de lamination. which is what that looks like anyway

  22. Well I’d better get a pic up here soon of my lowly(compared to some on here)Ridley Icarus SLS;it’s currently not in proper compliance as it’s still in winter commute mode so lights/mudguards are on but these will soon be removed and some proper pics can be posted.

    A quick resume;

    Icarus ally frame/caron forks,Shim 105/Planet x gears/brakes,Deda bars,stem and post,San Marco Regal-e saddle and Campy Zondas with either Mich pro-4 sc’s or Conti gp4000s.

  23. Thanks to @redranger for finding this sweet deal on ebay and a bunch of other fuckers for pressuring me into it, I’m now the proud owner of my first CX frame, which will be built into a proper gravel bike under the guidance of @scaler911 in preparation of Heck of the North this October.

  24. More substitutes for the C24’s – not Chris King, but they still buzz, lotta fun to be had on 50mm

  25. @mcsqueak

    Thanks to @redranger for finding this sweet deal on ebay and a bunch of other fuckers for pressuring me into it, I’m now the proud owner of my first CX frame, which will be built into a proper gravel bike under the guidance of @scaler911 in preparation of Heck of the North this October.

    TCXs seem to be getting popular.

    Is that one of those silly 42/38 cranks? Am I the only one that sees a 4 tooth gap a bit useless?

  26. @Weldertron

    @mcsqueak

    Thanks to @redranger for finding this sweet deal on ebay and a bunch of other fuckers for pressuring me into it, I’m now the proud owner of my first CX frame, which will be built into a proper gravel bike under the guidance of @scaler911 in preparation of Heck of the North this October.

    TCXs seem to be getting popular.

    Is that one of those silly 42/38 cranks? Am I the only one that sees a 4 tooth gap a bit useless?

    A 42/38 is an amazingly rad ratio, although I prefer the more rare 44/38 myself. The Common 46/38 is a juvenile bird, too short on the bottom and too long on the top.

    For gravel application, however, no less than a 50T is required as a smaller big ring will sap you of the V. The 38 is the tits although a smaller gear is welcome on the steep gravel grades one finds about oneself from time to time.

  27. @fenlander Sounds like a beautiful bike mate, but you’ve got to register and use the upload button (which looks like a camera) to get your photo to show up. Sorry its not easier.

  28. Have stumbled upon a major disagreement between Yurup and North ‘Murica between discs and canti’s on CX bikes.

    Europeans say discs are the tits whilst ‘Muricans say they’re a liability for a variety of reasons especially maintenance in the field and wheel interchangeability.

    Heading to an LBS that isn’t my “home” LBS to look at Ridley X-BOW and I need to get my head round the right answer. Right now I think canti’s are the way to go.

  29. @frank @Weldertron

    I’m just glad the bike is coming with a crank as it’s one less thing I need to buy initially. There is more than enough hilly and flat gravel around here for me to figure out if it’ll be a good ratio for me.

  30. @the Engine

    Heading to an LBS that isn’t my “home” LBS to look at Ridley X-BOW and I need to get my head round the right answer. Right now I think canti’s are the way to go.

    Given two similar options, go with the more simple. Cantis will let you interchange wheels and allow an on-the-road repair using a standard multi-tool.

  31. @mcsqueak That thing is smoking man. I cant wait to see it in person. Im sure we will both enjoy the fuck out of our TCX’s

  32. @RedRanger

    @mcsqueak That thing is smoking man. I cant wait to see it in person. Im sure we will both enjoy the fuck out of our TCX’s

    Yup. Makes me horny to find my gravel rig and start sweating up the long forest roads behind the Compound in preparation for the Heck.


  33. Its been a while since I posted a photo. I’ve made a few changes to the fit and gone to speedplay pedals that I’m really enjoying.

  34. @PeakInTwoYears

    @RedRanger

    @mcsqueak That thing is smoking man. I cant wait to see it in person. Im sure we will both enjoy the fuck out of our TCX’s

    Yup. Makes me horny to find my gravel rig and start sweating up the long forest roads behind the Compound in preparation for the Heck.

    Regardless of the big European events I’ve got lined up this year, I’m deeply jealous of all of you going to the Heck.  I’ve never ridden on the gravel but am determined to try it, plus the number of Velominati attending is going to be some sight.

  35. @norm

    Great bike mate!

    Having tried most of the road pedal systems (except Shimano but they are close enough to Look idea) I can tell you that you have made a good call with Speedplays.

    Good riding.

  36. @norm Looking good.

    The speedplays are great but take care of them in Rule #9 weather, mine didn’t survive being submerged on the London Cogal. I’ve got a replacement bearing kit and I’m waiting for a set of Ti spindles from ebay so that I can rebuild them. Can’t wait, my spd shoes are fine for commuting but begin to hurt at 80Km.

  37. @Chris

    You didn’t look after them in the first place Chris, did you?

    Because I don’t believe they got destroyed in one rainy ride.

  38. @TommyTubolare One rainy ride? It was a bit wetter than that.

    I greased them on a fairly regular basis per the instructions but I may not have attended to them immediately after that ride. I didn’t get home until about 11pm and I can’t remember whether I got round to it the next night or the night after.

    They were from ebay so I’ve no idea how old they were or how well they were looked after before I got hold of them but there was a bit off roughness developing despite regular greasing. I probably would have gone for new bearings regardless.

    There’s no rocket science when it comes to their maintenance.

  39. It looks like my bike may be done for after getting hit, dropouts are out of alignment and rear wheel is not completely true-able.  It gets a vibration that is unnerving for cornering and especially descending.  The insurance company is talking reimbursement of purchase price less depreciation.  My LBS is saying it has always been MSRP reimbursement from their experience.  Anyone here know what is up?

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