The Bikes
The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.
It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.
The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.
If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.
- Rule #12 and the Cascade Effect
That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, ... - Guest Article: Black Is Not The New Black@kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
- Dialing in the StableThis was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
- Matching the drapes to the rugAs a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
- Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the HourEveryone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...
@TommyTubolare
Sweet ride! How do you like the wheels? Great paint and tape.
From back on page 44:
I have Deda Newton shallow bars paired with an “Uno” stem, given to me by a friend in the bike world who told me this is a house brand where other nice stuff is made. Maybe Easton stems? The bars were used when I got them, so was the stem. The stem clamp at the fork does in fact close all the way down & meets. There is a gap where the faceplate meets the bars. The fork is brand new. This leads me to believe, based on what a few of you said, that the stem has been overtightened at some point at the fork, probably not the bars. A noticeably bigger gap there, the type that was mentioned I should have.
I’m going to pick up a new stem, looking at the Deda Zero 1. Would love the Zero 100, but it’s a lot more money and not much lighter.
I think the bars are okay judging by the existence of some clamp gap. I’ll install the new stem with a torque wrench and once properly installed if it pulls together there I think that’ll tell me the bars also need to be replaced.
I currently have a Ritchey WCS carbon post installed, used to have a Ritchey stem. Thinking I’ll pick up the Deda Zero 100 post. Would like the SuperZero, but not really in the Budgetatus right now.
Would I be crazy to put an alloy post on a carbon bike to match bars, stem, post? I’m not worried about the weight penalty so much as the ride quality change. Am I going to notice a carbon-to-alloy swap in the post area on a full carbon bike (minus bars/stem, which are alloy)? I ain’t too heavy, around 65 kgs.
I feel kind of bad putting second tier stuff on the #1, but I think I’m overthinking this and being a bit crazy. The Zero 1 stem and Zero 100 post are still darn nice stuff. And while there is Rule #4 to consider, the bike is still quite nice.
@Ron
The stem is probably a Kalloy Uno – Kalloy make lots of stems for lots of brands, but Uno is definitely one of the model names they market their own stuff as.
As for a aluminium seatpost question, go for it. You won’t feel much of a difference (if any) at all.
I guess the seat post issue is which is the most Rule compliant: match bars, stem to post, even if the post is alloy?
Or, save up some funds, ride the Ritchey post for now, and then buy the Deda SuperZero carbon post down the line?
@Calmante
Thanks mate.With a bit of stretching and lower back exercises you can get any drop you want.Question is do you want it?
In terms of the bars these aren’t my favourite either however I feel nicely locked in the drops when riding and since I’m on a rivet financially at the moment they will do!
I have 3T Ergonova on the other bike and I like them more.
@Anjin-san
Thanks.In terms of wheels I can’t say it better than Gianni did and made me laugh so I’m gonna quote him:sweet baby jesus…those are some nice wheels.
Is there anything particular that you want to know about them that is not explained in the quote?
@DerHoggz
No problem mate.Really I understood your comment in a positive way so no worries.
@JC Belgium
He’s just a dude, that is all, a complete frickin dude
That said, last years kit was just a bit more badass awesomest
@Anjin-san
How did you do it? I also have a one of those Look HSD Stems that double as a truncheon? But mine is cooler because it is white. Did you simply find a bigger o-ring?
That photo has changed orientation and has become somewhat distorted. They are both 110mm stem. I swear!
Scratch that – now its landscape. WTF is going on Fronk?
@Marcus
Posting drunk again?
@minion
worse – have just completed my first alcohol-free day since before Christmas. I guess it was the cold turkey lying on my side whilst reading the screen that messed with me.
Anyway monkey-wrench boy, how do you mount a garmin on a massive LOOK stem? The o-rings supplied don’t reach far enough around.
I’m super tempted to try this thing where you use Campy shifters with SRAM rear derailleur (on my cross bike).
Frank said it will work (in theory?).
Centaur shifters can be purchased for $200, which is a lot less than the Shimano shifters I was going to go with instead. The bike is all SRAM right now but I hate the SRAM shifters.
And a cross bike is supposed to be a mutt with mismatched parts salvaged from the spare parts bin. Right?
@G’rilla
Sourced from Cycling Sensei, Sheldon Brown:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/shiftmate.html
@marcus
Two o-rings, one at the front and one at the back?
Ok so I have been thinking for a while of upgrading to 3T post, stem and bars. I have the PRO vide stem 110mm with a 5mm(I think) spacer under it. The V stem is a -10 degree stem and 3T only make 6 and 17 degree stems. Could I switch stems and keep my current fit? Btw I’m planning on going with the pro series of 3T
@RedRanger
I think you’d be able to use the 6 degree 3T stem and take out the spacer for near enough the same position.
I put a bid on a Dorico team seatpost (with white detailing not red) which I didn’t expect to win but got it and it’s carbon rather than aluminium so I was hoping it would flex more. Definitely more comfortable and a fair bit lighter than the Pro. This could also be because it has more layback that my previous post so the weight is further back which also could mean more flex.
I’ve also got a set of Ergonova Pro bars and a Pro stem and am very happy with those too. Lots of folks here go with the Rotundo bars, I’m sure you know that though.
@snoov
I’m looking at the ergosum bars. But bars would me the last thing I get as long as I can get the same fit. I would consider going a bit lower but defiantly not higher.
Today I chalked one up to experience when I broke my first chain. I’m pretty sure it was my fault though. Not because I had just ridden up a 12-15% gradient (which I had) but because when I got the chain (Ultegra 6701) I thought I’d ignore the instructions and use a Sram Powerlink connector instead of the pin that came with the chain.
The powerlink connector just wouldn’t engage so I was forced to put a link back on the chain using the left over links. I’m pretty sure the pin that I pushed out and then back in was the place where the chain broke. @Oli will probably tell me that I shouldn’t have done it, I should have asked him before diving in but at the same time I have learned a valuable lesson and am passing it on to all of you.
Then, possibly because I had to repair the chain in a farmers driveway and got mud in my speedplay cleats, while pedalling like crazy on the wee ring I came up to some traffic lights and couldn’t unclip my right foot. I managed to take most of the impact on my knee and forearm and thought that the ground had helped me unclip, but no, half the cleat was still on the pedal and half still on my shoe. After the chain repair I was freezing (1 degree C) and couldn’t feel my thumbs and the ends of my fingers but now I’m home and looking forward to getting out on Saturday.
Scratches on my shifter and rear mech.
Not a great day but not a disaster either, my body is fine and nothing is bent. New chain and cleats will hopefully arrive tomorrow and I’ll search the house tonight for stuff to sell on eBay.
@G’rilla
RECORD (10spd) shifters can be purchased for $200 on eBay. Have them serviced by someone who knows what they’re doing, and you’ll be off and running.
Considering the same thing for my rain bike, but used Chorus mechs are cheaper than new Rival mechs. So I’ll probably go all Campa.
@snoov
I’ve got a KMC powerlink thingy in my Ultegra chain and it’s absolutely fine apart from not being able to get it apart without my Park Masterlink pliers (simple genius kit). You need to give a sharp turn on the crank to seat it but once done it’s staying there.
Originally I had a 105 chain that had the Shimano pin holding it togeher. I also had a rather nice 105 rear derailleur but the pin didn’t hold and the chain plates splayed. When they got to the cage, they didn’t stop but took the mech up and round until the whole lot hit the seat stay. The whole lot only had 525km on the clock at that point. Now I’ve got an Ultegra mech and chain without the Shimano fixing pin.
Love my Speedplays but wouldn’t want them for CX!
@snoov
You were spot on about the 6 degree stem and removing the spacer. Frank set me on the right path with the math I needed to do so I pulled out the old protractor and yup there would be a really small amount of rise. The advantage would be that I would have a fully slammed stem. Disadvantage would be the stem would be less sharply angled. But it seems like the -10 degree stem is actually an oddity and most make em in 6 or 17 degrees
@RedRanger
Does the 3T pro come in -17? I’ve only seen the carbon one in -17.
@Chris
That’s just the information I was looking for – hadn’t thought of KMC. Thanks, I’ve just ordered a couple.
@RedRanger
I was going to draw you a diagram this evening as I had to go out and help a plumber but if Frank has sorted you out I won’t bother, and yeah the slammed stem will look fabulous too.
@Nate
Isn’t it the other way round? Carbon stem 6 degrees, Alu stems 6 and 17 degrees?
@Nate
They make em in both.
@snoov
Having actually bothered to look it up, you are right, the carbon only comes in -6. The alloy Team comes in -6 or -17; the Pro only comes in -6. The Team costs half again as much for red paint, Ti bolts and 9 fewer grams.
My bike is matte black and white. Which is why I want to go with the Pro line. I’ll defiantly post updated pics as it progresses.
Now I’m wondering if I want to go with a 120mm.
I’ve seen some 3T Team stuff in white too, if the Dorico Team seatpost I got on eBay was in red I wouldn’t have wanted it.
@RedRanger
What layback/offset is your current seatpost? I put on a shorter stem and moved the seat back same amount. To my mind this gives your bodyweight more leverage to make the seatpost flex thus improving comfort.
It may be nothing to do with the position change but my lower back hasn’t been getting as sore since I did this. It could just be that the Team seatpost flexes more and that is what has caused the reduced pain or it could be both. It could also be the extra stretches I’ve been doing before riding. It could be all three or none of the above.
@snoov
I’m not sure what the set back is actually. It’s it looks the same as the Dorico.
@RedRanger
What size is your frame/toptube?
It’s a C’Dale 56. Don’t have te geo at the moment to give an exact measurent. My setback is 25mm
@RedRanger
Either 110 or 120 seems proportionate to a 56.
@Nate
Yeah that 120 would look nice for sure. I don’t know about that extra stretch.
@RedRanger
I hear you. I am currently running the 120 Ritchey my bike came with. I switched to 3T Rotundos and got myself a 3T 130mm stem after a few weeks to go with, but it’s been sitting in my parts bin taunting my lack of flexibility for a good 3 months now.
@snoov
Dude, I am ALL ABOUT THE CONNEX chains. I hate that you can’t just take a chain off to clean it or put it in the dishwasher or use it as a garrote wire. And the new SRAM one’s lock permanently, so what good does that do?
My Connex shifts just as well (and possibly better/more quiet) than the standard Campy chain and you don’t have to buy a $30 connector kit to break the chain.
All of this is to say that one time I broke my VMH’s Campa chain to clean it and put it back on like an idiot. She snapped it on the next ride. Probably because she was firing off the howitzers, but I still felt responsible.
@RedRanger
Depends on how stretched you are now. But extra stretch will compensate for a little less drop as well.
@frank
If I did my math right, a 120 would be less drop than a 110 if both are -6.
@Nate
It’s not because you’re less flexible(maybe it is?) but because 3T is slightly longer than Ritchey in the same measurement.
3T measures their stems on the + angle.So for example 3T stem 110mm 6 degrees measures 110mm exact on +6 degrees side(mounted upwards) and almost 115mm on -6 degrees side.Measure yours and you will see what I mean.Ritchey is dead on 110mm on -6 degrees side.If you were on the limit with Ritchey 120 mm you should have bought 110mm from 3T.130 mm from 3T is probably around 138mm on -6 degrees side.
If you’re to use -17 degrees stem the differences are even bigger because of the bigger angle.
@snoov
Mistakes happen so don’t worry and I’d advise you to always use a pin when possible instead of powerlinks.Since you shouldn’t take off your chain for cleaning anyway why would you need powerlink?
Powerlink creates a weak spot on a chain and usually it’s the powerlink that brakes and not the chain or the link next to powerlink.
If you really have to use it use a powerlink from the same brand as your chain.
@TommyTubolare
Very interesting, thanks for the info. So a 110 3T is a bit shorter than a 120 Ritchey, and a 120 3T is what, about 127?
@TommyTubolare
Again, I concur with my esteemed colleague. Even the filthiest chain shouldn’t be removed from the bike to be cleaned.
@TommyTubolare
Wow, that’s good to know. I’m about to buy a new stem, and I was looking at both 3t and Ritchey.
You wouldn’t happen to know how Easton measures their stems, would you?
@Nate
Yes.120mm Ritchey is spot on 120 mm.For that matter I just took the measurement again from the 110 mm -6 stem I have here that’s not mounted.115mm so all you have to remember that clamp will open once you install the bars.Sorry for the shitty quick photo but just so you have an idea.
@Oli
Thanks for your comment.And yes the only time you break/take off your chain is when it’s time for new one.
@TommyTubolare
@Oli
Aha, thanks guys. So I will use the pin when the new chain arrives and take the powerlinks out on rides as spares in case of a mechanical. As with all things, if you clean it often, a chain takes less time to clean, minimum every second ride at my house.
Although I’m thinking it would be a bit of an own goal for Sram and KMC to sell something that causes a weak link in their chains, surely that kind of thing would be all over the internets?
@The Oracle
IIRC they measure slightly longer also depending on the degree.I think 100mm 10 degrees stem is very close to 110mm when mounted negative as -10 (downwards).Sorry but I can’t take any proper measurements now.
@snoov
It wouldn’t be the first time a bike component company invented a solution in search of a problem.