The Bikes
The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.
It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.
The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.
If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.
- Rule #12 and the Cascade Effect
That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, ... - Guest Article: Black Is Not The New Black@kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
- Dialing in the StableThis was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
- Matching the drapes to the rugAs a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
- Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the HourEveryone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...
@GottaRideToday
only problem with that is Shimano doesnt support the BB30.
@sthilzy
Yeah that was silly of me, wasn’t thinking about the paint. White spirit would be better.
Cobbled together. Hincapie syndrome paranoia got the better of me, replaced the original fork with an alloy steerer Easton. Yeah I know his steerer was alloy. Might have to get that sucker painted though…
@UNPULL
It’s testament to the awesomeness of your bike that nobody picked you up on the tyre labels (pretty much what @Marco said). It’s a beauty.
@brett
Ha, I see what you did there! I assume that’s what you’re taking on the tour in spring?
Just saw a feature about some Japanese folks who made violin strings from spider silk. I’m wondering when someone will make brake cables from that stuff and how it will perform.
@snoov
thank you for your guidelines. I am still a bit worried, what if it fails? then I have pieces of expanding foam in my frame, and these will probably be difficult to remove. I hope you did not ruin a frame by testing it, which I sincerely appreciate.
I will post some pictures of the top tube when I get home this weekend. I am trying the zip ties to keep the cable tight, but did not ride cobbles, so there was no propper test run…
Does the housing just go in and back out the hollow frame tube, or is it running through a guide?
If it’s the latter, do what I did with my Bianchi and wrap a layer or two of electrical/insulation tape around the housing every 3-4cm. It made a bad rattle on rough roads completely disappear.
If it’s the former, you’ll be surprised how much weight filling the tube with foam will be, plus it could even change the handling characteristics of your frame. I definitely would not fill my frame with expanding foam, although I’m afraid I don’t really have another idea.
@King Clydesdale
lol… I know I shouldn’t laff but now I know fuckin’ up your repairs is universal; how long did it take for you to realise your mistake; when that good idea turned into a daymare and for you to stop swearing? as for your problem ask someone who really knows what they’re doing…
@JC Belgium
Old School – never fails.
Need to see pics of the top tube cable holes.
As Oli asks,“Does the housing just go in and back out the hollow frame tube, or is it running through a guide? “
Can you pull the seat out and shove a couple/few packaging foam bits in the top tube? Or, when threading cable through can it be detoured out the seat tube and put tight fit o rings along the outer cable, pulled back in and out the brake cable exit hole?
@zalamanda
Problem solve for the most part. I acetone and the dremmel got the old stuff off, new chainring and chainring bolts with thread-locker (I made sure to scold the superglue for deceiving me). I still get get proper shifting though with the front derailleur right now (I also replaced my cables and housings). Trying to Zinn my way through the process, might just bring the bike in to the shop for them to adjust the drivetrain.
As I said however this bike will be the rain/don’t want to hurt bike #1 bike. In the process of finding my second bike. Will be my first carbon bike, and the first bike I buy new. Very excited.
In fact I think the Caad knows it’s going to get replaced and is jealous, and that’s why she’s giving me so much shit.
@JC Belgium
The experiment is in progress. No carbon fibre frames have been abused or risked at any point during my experiment!
@Oli
I’d hoped for some input from you Oli. I realise the expanding foam is a desperate measure but our Belgian friend seems desperate! I’m not talking about completely filling the top tube with foam, just a squirt. From my research last night it looks like some carbon fibre manufacturing uses expanding foam inside some shapes so I’m thinking it won’t affect the resin in a bad way. Maybe you have a contact that knows the deal removing any assumptions I’ve made.
@sthilzy
The idea of pushing a little piece of foam into the top tube by way of the seat tube (or head tube) is far simpler and risk free, that’d be the second thing to try after the electrical tape solution. I was also thinking of a sort of umbrella thingamyjig that one pushes into the hole which then opens up inside and holds the cable in the centre of the tube. (I have yet to patent this idea)
@Oli
@snoov
@sthilzy
it s without a guide, goes in left and comes out left, the cable is bent upwards and hitting the top tube somewhere in the middle (see earlier posts). it would indeed be a pity to fill the frame with foam.
quite desperate I am indeed, I can t find a propper solution. I even considered bying a new bike, though I like riding it. but that sound on the cobbles is annoying and half of the cogals around here include cobbles.
the frame also has an internal seat post, so it will be difficult to put in a piece of foam. or I can take out my fork, if necessary of course…
You gave me some good ideas to work with!
(I found some pics in a catalog, shots of my bike next weekend…)
the quality is far worse than I expected…
To add to the 3T love here is a pic of the new stem. matches my bike awesomely. its a 120 but with such a fat head tube it almost looks shorter. please excuse the spacer stack. this stem as a good 5mm less stack than the V stem and I havnt had to cut the steer tube down.
next upgrade is a 3T post and as stated she needs to be retaped ASAP
@RedRanger
Nice transport set up too. I’ve been planning something like that.
@RedRanger
3T LOVE sounds as though it should be in the lexicon some how ??
(3) more photos to post before shifting my focus to turning the pedals. And with that said, I should remember “Of thinking too precisely on th’ event””rule V.”
@UNPULL
Nice photos!
@RedRanger
Be wary over the 3T Palladio seatpost, although it is innovative, it appeared unsure of itself. The design is like a carbon (bottom bracket-like) shell around the DiffLock adjusting mechanism that secures the rails. My rider weight category is ‘Clydesdale’ and you may not have to worry. Purchased one thru Wiggle and immediately returned it.
@UNPULL
I need one with more setback than that.
@UNPULL
maybe Fränk could stylize up a cool printable version of the rules with some V logos as watermark and pdf it for the site. I’d actually be happy to do that. Let me know.
@UNPULL
Nice photos, I got that same seat a few months back, for me it’s much more comfortable than the CX Arione in my soft tissue department. It sits atop a Dorico Team post which has also proven to improve comfort (@RedRanger 25mm setback).
Lovely photos!
@grumbledook
I die a little bit every time I see that stunning IF Ti CX frame of yours.
@Tartan1749
Good. I believe that your entire identity is a great asset — and you could allow true disciples to purchase a moleskin “hard copy” edition of “Obey the Rules”. A gift that any cyclist can appreciate. But I know that it is also an ongoing body of work and would be difficult to continually update for a latest “hard copy” edition — digital printing low quantities.
@snoov
Oh yeah !! — biggest factor was the 143mm width. And good to know that I can get 25mm setback versus 20mm on the Zipp Service Course SL
@UNPULL
Anyone picked up on the (GREEN) soda can that we inserted around the seatpost. On the maiden voyage the post slipped and after 40 minutes of trying any other 27.2 post and still moving — we elected to use a can sleeve. This was done only in an attempt to go back and intercept the morning group (un)expectedly! No time to order a shim!
@acciaio
Just lovely.
I’ll look forward to seeing it in the flesh in a few weeks time….
@UNPULL
Those red cables look like veins!
@sthilzy
Veins.. I like it… could have the right side “blue” and left side “red” !!
@UNPULL
Or as our friend over at BRR would say – blood pipes.
@marko
Almost as crazy as Hoogerland’s!
@JC Belgium
Ok here are the results of my experiment.
The cable was easily pulled out leaving the foam securely in the tube.
The foam inside the tube weighed 3g barely as much as a gulp of water from the bidon.
I’m still not encouraging anyone to fill their carbon frame with expanding foam, just throwing ideas out there in the Pursuit of Silence.
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@snoov
Good one!
The Hilti is the foam? Can the foam be squirted through a flexible hose, through the head tube/seat tube to top tube holes to get the foam in the middle of the top tube, or 2/3rds of the way?
If needing to re-thread outer cable, may need a cone shaped plug to fit into the inner diameter of the outer cable.
@sthilzy
Can you ask your friend who works on aircraft if he thinks the ingredients in the foam would degrade the carbon fibre resin in any way, that’s the only thing that worries me about this process.
The Hilti is the foam, yes.
Yes the foam can be squirted through a flexible hose. I reckon one lump of foam in the centre would be ample. Care must be taken though as my gun allows me to adjust the flow rate of foam, the ones you buy in DIY stores don’t have any control so you’d have to attach the hose, squirt till it’s coming out the end, feed into the tube and then squirt a short burst of foam, like half a second. It’d be wise to practice first.
If I were replacing the outer cable I’d use electrical tape and join the new outer end to end with the old one and carefully pull it through (or some similar method). I reckon anyone who used this method and pulled the old cable out would regret it. However, the hole through the foam is pretty solid. It takes several hours for the foam to harden, I’d leave it overnight to be safe.
@JC Belgium
The foam is very sticky when it first comes out of the gun, this causes it to stick to the inside of the tube so it wouldn’t be rattling around inside there, it’ll stay put. I’m pretty confident this will work my only reservation is with regard to any of the ingredients degrading the carbon fibre or resin. I hope @sthilzy can clear that up for us.
@snoov
Can you ask your friend who works on aircraft if he thinks the ingredients in the foam would degrade the carbon fibre resin in any way, that’s the only thing that worries me about this process.
Will ask in the morning – Melbourne time and post answer.
@JC Belgium
My friend has the same problem with his Wilier Cento Uno, and he doesn’t go near cobbles, the noise drives him nuts.
Glad to see this foam experiment seems to be working.
However, going back to a point I made a while ago, one of the key things to how a frame ‘feels’ is due to the fact the tubing is hollow allowing road vibrations to resonant and disperse. By adding foam you are effectively making the tubing solid which could deaden the ride – which could be to the detriment or the benefit of different frames in different ways. I’m sure someone out there has got a more technical or scientific explanation of this and the possible side effects of spray foaming the tube.
I guess all I’m trying to say is I’d be wary of solving a problem but creating a new one in the process.
@motor city
I understand what you’re saying, I’m not the expert you seek and I would also defer to those with more knowledge.
The foam I’m using does flex, it’s easy to squeeze it between your fingers and I’m using the least amount of foam possible so any flex or deadening would be at a minimum.
I’m going to write an email to Calfree and see if I get a response.
Sometimes the Pros put weights in the crank shaft or in the seat tube to get their bikes up to the UCI weight limit. I’m sure this also effects the handling by lowering the centre of gravity of the bike. All I’m saying is that sometimes it’s not a bad thing to change the characteristics of a bike. I’m not saying this foam thing is the solution. I’m just looking at it as a possible solution.
@snoov
I think if it works it’ll be a great solution.
The more I think about it, the idea of filling handlebars with the right sort of spray foam might be a good idea. Would the foam dampen road buzz and smooth out a ride or would it make the transfer of vibration worse?
All this foam shit is crazy! I use that stuff to seal the windows and doors on the house I’m building – not for my bike. I guess though, if that’s what you need to do.
@motor city
see Rule #5.
@Marko
+1. some one is going to ruin their bike and be really mad about it. I am sure the foam idea had been thought of more than once and Im sure more than afew people are regretting it. if the bike manufacturer thought it was a good idea they would have done it themselves.
@Marko
I agree. No way would I put this foam in my bike.
@JC Belgium
If I was doing this to my own bike I would get some 5mm internal diameter tube and poke it through some polystyrene/sponge or similar that would stop it rattling round inside the frame, so you now have 5mm id tubing inside the frame. It is held in place by something that should not cause any damage and you can get it out if you need to. You then push the brake cable outer through the 5mm id tube making it easy to replace.
I hope that makes sense to someone
@Lepidopterist
Not sure how you’d get the sponge positioned inside the frame but I’m listening. As you point out the manufacturers have probably tried it. They also sometimes solve problems that don’t exist, as in the debate regarding disc brakes on road bikes.
@RedRanger
I’m not at work, bored waiting for Paris Nice to come on, trying to think of something to help but as you say, Rule V ought to be applied. My levers rattle on rough bits of road. I hate it but the brake springs are on their tightest setting and that’s all that can be done – I think so anyway.
@snoov
I would try first getting some string through the frame, small weight on the string and lower it down the top tube. Obviously I am assuming the fork and seatpost are out. Pre fit pieces of sponge onto your plastic tube and fix them in place. Tie string onto plastic tube and pull through as you feed in. Remove string when you have the end of plastic tube through the frame. That should do it.
Or if your plastic tube is fairly stiff you could glue the sponge onto the tube and just push it through.
Or somwhat more involved you fit pieces of sponge onto your plastic tube all at one end. Get your string through the frame,then your plastic tube goes through, then you pull the string through with the bits of sponge attached at whatever intervals you want. You would have to leave the string inside doing this.
Your bits of sponge dont have to be a really tight fit in the frame, just enough to stop the annoying rattle.
Hope this gives you some ideas to play with at any rate.
@Lepidopterist
I like it, +1.
I’m with @motor city on this – if it does fuck up the feel of your frame it’s too late to do anything about it. You’re most likely right that it’s harmless, but it’s a big gamble for me.
Bianchi (and others) used to use foam inside the tubes around the b/b to smooth out the ride of a rigid frame. Well, that was the marketing – I thought it was more likely to quiet it down and/or reinforce the area. Most of them cracked around the b/b anyway…though that’s most likely a coincidence.
2011 French Broad Cycling Classic RR, Marshall, NC — my only documented photo of the Corsa Extra 2010 build. Frame went to Greenwood, MS buyer.
Pinarello Montello crashed Jan 28, 2010 — only documented photo of this bike (too late). Nothing could be trusted or salvaged from head on impact at 38.6km/hr. Note that Columbus designed this fork to bend uniformly upon a head on impact.