The Bikes
The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.
It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.
The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.
If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.
- Rule #12 and the Cascade Effect
That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, ... - Guest Article: Black Is Not The New Black@kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
- Dialing in the StableThis was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
- Matching the drapes to the rugAs a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
- Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the HourEveryone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...
Yeah, it’s so ingrained that 23’s are the proper tire width, but I’m unsure about that. Conventional wisdom is not always right. Tomorrow is the last day of the sale at one of my local shops, so I have to decide by then.
I did give the saddle bag the ‘ol heave-ho today, and that felt great. The bike just looks so much better, and I think in my mind it made a difference in handling, but that could have been all in my head.
Near the end of today’s ride I stopped into the shop where I purchased my Felt last year to look at new saddles, and was promptly offered a shot of espresso served in a tiny Assos espresso cup. That was a proper way to end a ride, right there.
@all
some opinions from any of you re: position and impact on other body parts.
I have heeded frank’s & others advice re: moving seat back & raising slightly, littered throughout these hallowed web pages. As everyone rightly advised, it has given me more power & so on but I now have a slight problem with my right wrist!
After 3hrs in the saddle yesterday, all felt good apart from the wrist. Now, to fill in some details withour boring everyone too much, I’m running Shimano on compact handlebars (I suffer from girly sized hand syndrome so have found the smaller reach suits me but feel free to mock). Now I don’t feel like I’m suddenly leaning on my wrists any more than previously with the saddle adjustments, but for the most part of the day after the ride, my wrist was aching & my grip felt weaker when doing some bonsai pruning (that’s another story for another time. If anyone is truly interested I could tell you of the comparisons between bonsai & bike riding & maintenance? There is also the Zen like feeling one obtains when I’m on the bike giving as much of the V as possible & pruning the trees. Enlightenment can come in different forms).
All I can think is that I have changed the position/angle of my wrist now when I’m shifting or braking due to the different saddle adjustment. I’ll give it another go during the week, it may have been a one off for all I know?
Thoughts?
@mcsqueak
Depending on how heavy your bag is, I definitly think it makes a difference. Especially for someone like me with lots of post showing (jealous? intimidated?) Especially if the bag isn’t tied down and sways a bit.
Besides, does it really matter if it’s in your head or real? The associated lift in morale and confidence will more than outweigh whatever “real” effect is there.
@il ciclista medio
Commiserations. I am due to have a second MRI scan on my right wrist next week. When I ride the MTB I wear a wrist brace which has an aluminium splint, and that does the trick. On the road bike I can get away with the brace without the splint. I’ve tried riding in a way which doesn’t load up the wrist, but there’s only so much your core can do. However, the complexity of the wrist means small changes in the angle of the load can make a big difference. So if it doesn’t clear up by itself (and you are not yet of an age where you’ve given up trying to hide your infirmity), try playing around with the hoods a bit to change the angle of load.
Alternatively, take advice from someone who knows what they’re talking about. The last time I took health advice from a lawyer was the last time I listened to myself, and that doesn’t appear to have worked out so well for me …
@il ciclista medio
How much did you change the posish? If it was just a bit, give your body some time to adjust to the difference before making more changes or committing. For example, based on the assumption that there are no major side-effects, I’ll spend this entire season on my new stem before really deciding one way or the other.
Certainly one ride isn’t enough, after all your body could be suffering the side effects of an overzealous pruning session or some such horror. Or maybe you cleaned some potatoes with too much zeal.
But be careful not to push a bad position through real signals from your body (like pain) that can lead to injury. Basically, proceed with caution and make small adjustments. Be especially careful of your knees as you slide your saddle back.
@il ciclista medio
And you know never to forget that old cycling aphorism about what small hands necessarily imply about the rest of that cyclist?
Small Gloves.
@il ciclista medio
My 2 cents? Bike fit is a series of trade offs that never really end. Seat goes up, more power from the legs +ve column, more weight on upper body -ve. Go down a little and come forward on the saddle or get some core exercises going, so your trunk takes some of the work that your wrists are currently doing. There is a compromise re your position in there that will be optimised by a) being able to ride comfortably and b)you’ll be able to hammer with greater efficiency. You change jobs, get older, heavier, lighter, stop/start racing, move to a different city with/without hills, the way your body works on the bike will change. My only advice (better save this before it descends into rant territory) is to read up, follow GOOD advice, and listen to your body because you’re going to be the only one who knows what works and what you can live with. Give yourself some time to adapt to any changes you make, because your body has probably adapted to your current set up over a long period of time, take your common sense tablets with you and don’t expect to suddenly feel weightless because you’ve been sold a new saddle and moved your stem down 1 degree.
Off my soapbox, wrist pain is a sign your seat’s too high. Imagine your back and arms form 2 sides of a triangle that support your upper body weight. If the angle of one of the 2 is significantly greater than the other you may want to look at making adjustments back to a more even pyramid shape than having a very steep angle for your arms (or back). I cringe when I see Frank’s set up because he must nearly be in a push up position on the bike, putting a ton of weight through his arms, and extending his lower back more than I would find comfortable,(this is my imagination at work since I’ve only seen photos and never seen him ride his bike in person) but he’s made it work for him, by adapting to the position over time and probably being 6’9 and weighing about two and a half carrots (again an assumption not anyhwere near backed up by fact) means he’s not packing the ‘sprinters muscle’ beer gut that some of us are.
BTW can we please lexicon sprinter’s muscle? It’s what you have when instead of a six pack you have one, power filled protuberance above your knees and below your chin that is the source of all your ‘explosive power’.
@frank
It was the smallest bag I could find, so there was no sway and it wasn’t very heavy. It’s probably telling that everything fit into a small ziplock (need to get a proper pouch for organizing) and into my middle pocket without feeling heavy during the ride.
At any rate, I liked going without it quite a bit. Glad I finally did it.
@minion
+1. Done. I’m actually doing a sprinter’s muscle workout as we speak.
@il ciclista medio
I can’t offer any suggestions for the wrist issue, but the bonsai thing is cool. I’ve thought about trying that myself before, but haven’t gotten around to it as of yet.
@G’phant
Well I am heading (or is that am already?) to an age where the body is showing signs of wear & tear. I was a chef for over 20yrs so the wrist copped quite a hiding over the years.
The hoods were my next tweak as is a slight upward tilt of the bars. I try to take advice from wherever I can as practical experience is worth more than a textbook. Lawyers & medical advice is a new one though, unless we’re talking worker’s compensation then they tend to offer a lot on the subject in my experience.
@frank
I raised the seat approx. 10mm according to the markings on the post & back about 5mm. I was careful not to make any radical changes as I have ridden essentially the same pos for a while. I did feel that my pedal stroke was better without any niggles in the knee or hip area.
Funnily enough I did clean some potatoes yesterday but I have that down to a fine art. Thank the first year of my apprenticeship & an arsehole of a head chef (think Gordon Ramsay’s crankier brother with a drinking problem & having a small stature to boot).
I won’t be pushing the posish as I listen to my body religously & we’ve become quite close over the years.
@Marcus
yeah but I’ve got medium sized feet, a slightly bigger than average nose, average sized ears & a medium build. All of which are supposed to be indicative of something or other. Nor do I drive a red sports car or a Hummer, so I don’t think I’m lacking in any other department that needs compensating. With my hands, I did consider a career as a concert pianist but cycling became my passion.
@minion
thanks mate. All solid advice
@mcsqueak
Yeah, it’s a great pastime and very rewarding to watch something that you’ve nurtured grow and take shape over the years into a thing of grace and strength. Hopefully the same as my cycling.
@il ciclista medio
One thing that has not been mentioned (I don’t think) is your saddle level? I do not mean put a bubble level on it or visually level but find that spot where your sitz bones are and make that level. Meaning that not all saddles look level and the best way to find out is to ride up a slight incline at normal rpms and take the weight off your hands and see if your butt slides forward (or back). If forward the back of the saddle needs to come down (raise the seat post the same amount to compensate). This takes the weight off your hands. With the new saddles you can get them dead level without putting more pressure on the delicate bits. Once level you now can ride stress free – no weight of your body and arms on the handlebars – very relaxed for hours. Good luck.
@il ciclista medio – 10mm up and 5mm back is a massive change to absorb all at once – you’ve effectively changed not only your seat height but your reach by 15mm!! Leave the ‘bars and halve the changes (at least) – big moves like this need graduated steps to give you time to adapt, and I’d normally only move you 2-3mm at one time.
Very well put!
@Oli Brooke-White
@all
Thanks for the advice. Yes, in hindsight it was too much too soon. Over enthusiastic to say the least. Also a reminder that I’m not as young and flexible as I once was.
I adjusted everything again yesterday before heading out for a slow 40k’s to see how it felt.
Moved the seat forward 5mm and adjusted the level (thanks @Rob!). I left the stem height as is and moved the hoods up slightly (thanks @G’phant).
Result – just about perfect. No wrist pain. See how we go throughout the week but I think it’s just about there.
Once again thanks to all for some good advice.
A lot of this tweaking makes me a little nervous, and I wonder to what extent we’re avoiding the more important and obvious fix, which is invariably the body. I used to suffer from shoulder pain while riding, and I fiddled around with different seat, seatpost, and hood positions, before coming to the conclusion that I was really suffering from a muscular imbalance and my shoulders were bearing the brunt of the strain. Wrists can be tricky, but I’d want to strengthen the engine before fiddling extensively with the chassis…
@il ciclista medio
Thanks, glad it helped.
@Steampunk
Really agree with all the tips above and your good point too. The thing is when I learned to get my seat level on my own and then found Bernard Hinault saying the same thing in his book. I think it is the first thing folks with issues in the shoulders, arms, and hand/wrists should check. All those I know who have gotten level loose all pain, soreness and tension. The nice thing is when you get to that point the hands are just resting on the bars and all of the upper body can relax and just let the legs do what they do best.
@mcsqueak
GP4’s are nice, I’d go with a 25mm… I 25’s with latex tubes are about as close as you can get to tub’s without the hassle IMO. I’m on Open Corsa CX 25’s and love ’em.
@Steampunk
Worldy advice mate and thanks for your concerns.
Like a lot of people, I had developed bad habits in everything from standing, bending, lifting, walking, posture & of course cycling. I have been for a number of years, after doing something stupid and avoidable to my lower back, concentrating on strengthing my core muscles and stability.
This has allowed me to retrain pretty much how I did and now do everything including increasing my upper body strength. My core strength has increased ten fold and my posture is the best it has ever been. While I don’t have the build of a sprinter, I’m reasonably strong for my size. I do climb well for my weight as well.
I also bought myself a “Posture Pole” a couple of years back which is probably the best piece of equipment a cyclist could purchase to alleviate many muscular aches and pains. It helps to realign the spine and improves posture overall. After a few hours on the bike or sitting at an office desk, I go home & lay down on it for 10-15 minutes. (I have no affiliation with the company by the way!!) It was originally developed by a cyclist/chiropractor for cyclists. It also added to my height (as I am a bit of a short arse apparently!) with the improvement in posture.
That’s why I couldn’t work out the wrist pain and sought some thoughts, all of which have been very helpful.
So again, thanks to all for your advice and raising some serious concerns for consideration. This is one reason why a site like this is so fantastic and I love visiting.
Cheers
I did indeed wind up going with the GP4000 25’s. I paired them with latex race tubes and mounted them this afternoon. I haven’t had time to give them a spin yet but I may take them around the block later just to see how they roll. I won’t have time for a good ride until this weekend unfortunately.
They do make my bike look really slick, though. My old wheels were red, which was alright but my bike is black with white and red accents, so it felt like too much color was going on… The black tires look way better with the bike and white bars. I’ll need to take a picture of it next time I’m out.
Now I just need to figure out what my new running pressure will be and I’m all set!
@Buck Rogers
Tires for P-R: Sorry for such late response. Life gets in the way sometimes! I’d look at the Vittorias. I’ve read good things about them. 25’s for sure. I’d look to have a tough set of wheels. If you can run 36 hole, 3-cross, I’d start there. Some form of box aluminum. I’m so old school, I’d hate to have a lifetime goal ruined with a broken wheel. Flats wouldn’t bother me. Double tape the bars. Fix any loose fillings in your teeth. Buy some more insurance. Rent a jack hammer and break up your neighbor’s driveway while keeping a loose grip–you know, get the feeling, for practice.
@il ciclista medio
It’s a really incredible community and it’s great to get everyone’s advice. Thanks for being a part of it and for helping drive some really interesting conversation.
@Rob
You’ve got me wondering about saddle flatness; I’ve always used a bubble level, but I’m going to go out and try your suggestion. Thanks!
@Jeff in PetroMetro
Try also to get your dog to drop a few bombs in their yard while you’re at it, just to complete the neighborhood legend that you will surely become.
@Jeff in PetroMetro
I agree, Vittoria’s are good. The pair I just ran was great… never had any issues. I wouldn’t have a problem recommending them at all, though I ran 23’s and not 25’s. But as far as the brand goes, they seem to be quite good.
@Jeff in PetroMetro
Thanks man, good advice. I’ll have to look into the price of renting a jack hammer, but will probably wait until the day before I move to Texas, you know, exit strategies and all that sort of stuff.
I used to run Vittorias when I used sew-ups back in the late 80’s and always loved them. Now I only have clincher wheelsets, was not sure how their clincher tires were.
Good thought on getting some strong wheels. I’ll have to think about picking up a new wheel set for bike #2, which will be the one I’ll use on the trip next Spring.
@Buck Rogers
I’ve been running Open Corsa Paves all winter, and was running the regular Open Corsa clinchers this summer. I love the ride quality. They are so supple. Also I’ve had good luck with flats. The Paves are tough. If you’re venturing out on the cobbles you can do a lot worse; seems like half the field in P-R runs them in some form or another, with the rest running hand-crafted FMB tubulars. The Vittorias probably run a bit short on mileage because the tread is fairly thin, but that’s the trade off you make.
@Nate
Thanks Nate! I’m going to go ahead and get the Vittorias Open Corsa for my ride next year at P-R on the steel Lemond that I have. Should be a good fit and I think it will d the job. Just have to wonder about new wheels now as I have 24 spoke wheels at the moment on that bike and as Jeff pointe dout, probably not the best idea for a life goal to go into it with possibly less than absolute bombproof wheels.
@Buck Rogers
OK, my post was a bit vague but you want the Open Paves (naturally) not the Open Corsas. The Open Corsas are nice summer tires but not Roubaix material. The purpose of the Open Paves speaks for itself. And Jeff is absolutely right about wheels; you’ll want box rims, 3 cross, 32 or 36 spoke wheels, depending on your size. Not only are they bombproof, you’ll find 3 cross wheels absorb significantly more bumpiness in comparison to high tension, low spoke count radial or single-cross wheels. And don’t overinflate the tires.
@Nate
Ahhh, my bad. You werre clear, I just was not seeing too well! Yes, I will need a new set of wheels for the ride next year and will run the Vittoria Open Paves. Good stuff! Thanks, man.
Question about saddles: Anyone use the Prolongo Scratch Pro TS saddle? I have a good deal on getting one and I am not sure how good they are. I have been having problems with my current saddle, the Selle San Marco Aspide Arrowhead Ti and piriformis syndrome (numbness and pain in my right hammy after long rides). Thinking about getting a different saddle to try to help it out. Thanks.
Ooops, where’s that “edit post” funtion when you need it! I mean the Prologo, not prolongo!
@Buck Rogers
No experience with Prologo, but my personal experience with saddles is that the cutouts (like your arrowhead) actually intensify pressure rather than reduce it. more pressure on a smaller surface area. For me, I’m way more comfortable on saddles that distribute the (considerable) weight of my ass more.
@frank
Thanks Frank. I’m pretty sure it’s time for a new saddle, just trying to figure out the best one for my narrow ass!
Project Upgrade Steel (from Shimano 9spd to Record 10spd) is officially under way. Rain Bike restored to its original glory.
Took her out in the rain yesterday; great to have her back to her old self.
@frank
Looks sharp! I love the yellow tire/saddle/paint combo.
@mcsqueak
Thanks mate. That bike was bought and built up hot on the heels of Pantani’s streak in 98-2000 where he rode similarly config’d bikes. I couldn’t get the Celeste version of the frame, but got the black one and mimic’d his setup as best I could with the money I had. Then over a few year’s time, I switched to the Arione from the Flite I had on there, and to the FSA bar/stem that’s on there now. Loved those bars when I got them in ’06, but would never buy them again; round drops only for this fucktard.
[album: http://filemanager.dutchmonkey.com/photoalbums.php?currdir=/velominati.com/content/Photo%20Galleries/frank@velominati.com/Pantani%20Bike/&byfile=yes&file=marcobike3.jpg%5D
@mcksqueak+1
Nice looking winter bike, Frank…. Looks like you took a yellow-framed bianchi, held it by the seat post, then dipped it night, then added yellow tires and Bianchi decals. Sweet
A hint of spring in the air in Seattle. A short spin owing to having bruised a rib in a fencing tournament last night. Kept telling mysel “don’t ask a guy what bike he rides. If he’s a velominatus, he’ll tell you. If not, don’t embarass him.”
@frank
Hey Frank, how did you treat the frame?
Someone should market a “Rule 9 Frame Saverâ„¢” and a whole line of foul weather gear.
Anyone here a capitalist?
That’s my commuter bike:
@Pedale.Forchetta
Mate, you just never disappoint. That is a beauty.
Please be gentle….new member first post! This is my Litespeed Archon Ti, that I bought as a frame and transplanted the parts from my previous Planet X. For that morning it was probably one of the most expensive trainer bike in the world. I just checked that nothing was going to fall off!. It now has new Pro-Lite forks, and ceramic BB. The process continues.
Cheers
Nickcw UK
I thought a couple of the reviews of the Bosberg from Ritte’s site were pretty funny:
@nickcw
Very nice. Envy. (And you even swapped the bar tape from saddle-matching white to wind-trainer-matching blue just for the day you were riding it inside. Outstanding attention to detail…)
@Cyclops
Points for the best paint job going. I’ve had a bit of a crush on the Bosberg (and, now, the Crossberg, too) for some time, and would like to try one at some point. You’re right, too: some good humor on their site, too.
@frank
Holy crap! Didn’t think they made seatposts that went that high! I’m a little sore just looking at it!
@nickcw
Welcome! Excellent first post.
I like it. I’ve got Ti Envy. I’ve never owned Ti, but I’d like to.
Just my taste, but I’d lower the levers a bit. Maybe it’s the angle of the photo.
@Pedale.Forchetta
Clean. Simple. Elegant. Perfect.
Thanks all for the warm welcome here. As requested over in “The Rules” section I’m posting up a few pics of my bikes. Please forgive the pics of the L’una showing the improperly mounted computer,European posterior man purse and low-class water bottle cages (replaced with Bianchi carbon), all are now in compliance of the rules. The Eros is now my grocery & beer getter so the back rack should be acceptable.