The Bikes
The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.
It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.
The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.
If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.
- Rule #12 and the Cascade Effect
That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, ... - Guest Article: Black Is Not The New Black@kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
- Dialing in the StableThis was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
- Matching the drapes to the rugAs a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
- Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the HourEveryone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...
Huh. Looks like my shimano and my look pedals are the same thread pitch. I must be doing it wrong…
@Xyverz
To get the freewheel off I would stand up, hold the wheel in front of me on the ground, supporting with my legs, then wrench up towards myself. How many different tenses did I just use?
Pedal threads should be the same, one of the few standards that are actually standard.
@DerHoggz
Thanks, I’ll give that a shot.
For the pedals, it seems that I can’t do anything but cross-thread the damn things. :-( Either that, or the threads are deeper on the pedals than in the cranks…
@Xyverz
A vise really makes it easier. Obviously put the remover in the vise and turn the wheel. And the tip about using a quick release to hold the remover tool on is important, not too tight though and when it does come loose remove the skewer so it does not hold everything together as it unthreads. Believe me, this old system sucks wallaby balls, it’s so easy to mess up both the freewheel and the remover tool. I’ve done it more than once.
@Xyverz
+1 what Gianni said.Stop by a workshop and ask them to use the vise.Also clean the threads in the cranks and the pedals and inspect them.Use grease on threads.Make sure L and R pedal is on the correct side.Somebody before you might have made a mistake and damaged the beginning of the thread and that’s the reason the pedal doesn’t want to go in easily.You might have to tap and clean the old threads in the crank then.
@Xyverz
That looks really nice mate. Good luck with the pedals and freewheel. I’m not sure how the dork disk is affixed and I haven’t dealt with an old freehub like that but it looks like metal. Maybe you could just cut it with some tin snips and yank it out, taking care not to snip a spoke, unless it acts like a spacer? I’d wait to see if those more knowledgeable tell you this won’t work before you try it. Also, is there a chain guard on the outside of the big ring? I’d remove that too.
@Nate – Thanks sir! I’m not sure if this is a spacer or not, but there’s definitely space between the freewheel and the hub. There is indeed a chain guard on the cranks, and that will get removed as soon as I’m confident in my derailleur-adjusting skills.
I’ll be taking it to my LBS either Monday or Tuesday to have them check out the cranks. The bike is comfortable enough that I’m seriously considering buying a set of Keos to put on it (that is, if I keep the bike), and i’ll definitely want to make sure that they go on nicely. I’m also considering a set of TRP brakes to replace the Weinmanns (they’re only $60 for the pair).
On the topic of Silence – getting a creak from my headset/stem area on my LOOK when I’m out of the saddle. Didn’t used to make this sound, took off the stem to move some spacers around, now makes a sound when I’m rocking out of the saddle.
Have removed stem/spacers and cleaned, replaced. Tightened to specs using a torque key.
Should I snug by hand, going beyond the 5nM torque key?
Should I try removing, cleaning again? Is it advisable to put carbon paste on the fork steerer, under the stem? (Deda stems instructions say not to lube.)
Or, I haven’t relubed the HS bearings/races. But, didn’t really touch these to move the spacers in the first place.
Any ideas?
@Ron
I have a Look 586 and it started doing the same thing. I just lathered everything up with Phil Wood grease and haven’t had the problem since. I know there are “supposedly” issues with grease on carbon but what’s a boy to do? I also grease the hell out of the Epost before I put it in too.
Disclaimer: I am not a doctor and I don’t play one on TV. No carbon fibers where harmed in the making of this reply but I cannot be held liable for any injuries, explosions, failures, or voided warranties caused by a blatant disregard of manufacturer’s instruction.
I’m back
@Ron
Try oiling the front skewer, I had a similar noise which I thought was coming from the stem but no.
@the Engine
Been wondering where you were.
@the Engine
Welcome back, mate! Where you been?
@snoov
I have the same noises; only when getting up out of the saddle. I’ll take a look at my skewer and see if that helps. I did re-grease the entire headset (minus the spacers), which didn’t help much at all. I’ll give your suggestion a try this evening.
I’ll try that snoov.
Cyclops – what did you lube on the front end? Steerer tube, inside stem, skewer…?
Like I wrote, mine arose right after I pulled the stem off to move spacers. I wonder if I need to tighten the stem clamp bolts just a bit beyond the 5nM recommendation.
RE: gloves/mitts. I like the feel/feeling of not wearing them. But, in the summer they are necessary with all the sweating, no matter how good your bar tape is at soaking up/not being slippery. I always wear full-finger gloves for cx riding. And, just like Nate pointed out, it only takes one crash and mashed up/scraped hands to realize that gloves are a nice protection tool, just like a helmet. I completely don’t understand folks who insist they just cannot wear gloves. Oh really? That’s like a hockey player saying he can feel his stick better and prefers to not wear them. Okay, sure. But, after you get your hand smashed by another stick (or gouged on a rock/the road) I think you’ll sing a different tune. Anyway, whatever works for ya.
@Ron EVERYTHING
@Ron
Like a cricketer not wearing a box facing a fast bowler…
@Ron
Pop out your bearings on your headset and re-grease them with white lithium grease. Try to keep it off the carbon, and carbon-paste everything else. No more sound.
Unless, of course, you quick releases need lubing, which can also happen.
@Ron
Don’t do this, especially is you have a carbon steerer.
Did my Pyrenean trip – in between drinking and not doing much watched lumps of the Tour (pictures to follow) with my family who loved it (Mrs Engine is now reading “A Race for Madmen” the first time I’ve seen her read non-chick non-fiction probably ever) and climbed the 1st cat climbs they did on Stage 15 (once the tacks had been swept up).
Anyway I’ve just driven back – its 1,500 miles from there to here – and I’m allowed to quote the distance in miles as it was diesel powered rather than gun powered. I’m gritty eyed and the big homecoming mind dump will just have to wait.
There is one one pressing problem – I’ve got to go to the LBS tomorrow for new pedals. I had a very minor off and my Speedplay cleat parted company with the base plate on my shoe rather than releasing from the pedal – the four embedded nuts that locate to the screws that keep the mechanism in place have come out of the plastic. Utterly undefuckable and resulted in a 10km one legged cycle home. The mechanism is still stuck to the pedal as I can’t get the leverage without a vice to twist it off/
Here’s the nub – has this happened to anyone else with Speedplays? Should I get them replaced under warranty (they were new with the bike back in April and at a push I’ve done 2,500kms with them)? Or should I admit they’re not right for me as this has happened elsewhere and go with something else? If so what? I’ll be heading for the LBS tomorrow lunchtime UK time so any thoughts by then greatly appreciated.
It’s a great feeling to be able to maintain your own equipment. Especially when you realize you’ve been riding on a rusted BB30 bottom bracket for a few months. I feel like I’m going twice as fast now!
And the headset press I had to buy is unlike anything else I have in my toolbox. I’m hoping for another chance to use it again.
@the Engine it’s personal preference for me but Speedplays just seem to be too much hassle for the benefits you get from them.
If the shop is happy to give you a credit instead of a straight warranty maybe see if they can get you some Iclics, they’re pretty awesome & have been updated to version 2.0 since Brett’s article.
@Mikael Liddy
+1for the iClic2s. Plenty of float, and they look the business as well.
@the Engine
I’ve been doing SP for awhile, and I love them. Now, I just had issue with taking off the cleat, but I also had walked quite a bit in them. So the fact that getting a couple of the screws out was a hassle is on me. A lot of my buddies race on them and have no problems.
My 2 shillings.
@the Engine It may be the shoe? The left foot on my Speedplays lost three of the four screws (Specialized Comp shoes) this summer, and I only noticed it by accident one day after a ride. It appeared that the screws “backed off”, but even with replacement screws, it’s still a problem. I really like Speedplay pedals, so I’m just going to buy Sidi Ergo SP 3 shoes to go with the Sidi Dragon 3’s I use on my ‘Cross & Mountain bikes. Sidi’s fit better anyway.
@DerHoggz @frank and all
Ok so I’ve greased and lubed every moving part I can find – and am still getting a “creak” when out of the saddle or just laying down the V (obviously, pretty much all the time).The grease on the dropouts tip cured one creak but the now obsessive pursuit of silence has now become a major distraction when riding (thanks for that @eightzero!). So my current path of investigation is looking like: more grease on the dropouts, and then the less than appealing tasks involving bottom brackets and headsets. The only other thing I can think is that the bearings in my Look Keos are f-ed.
Any other ideas? Otherwise it’s sleeves up, wrench out and time to get greasey. Will follow up when it’s done.
@Giles I had the same problem recently. Thought it was the head set so put more grease in there than an Italian disco but to no avail. Took it to the LBS and they tightened up the front wheel and greased it and problem solved. A Mavic wheel and a common problem apparently. Good luck.
@niksch
do you happen to unclip with your left foot? I love speedplays but cant stand how high maintenance they are. other guys in the club have been wearing them non-stop no issues for years. I like to ride around at midnight, and about 60km out realized i too lost a few screws. so i had an unexpected night of 1 legged drills on the return home. it’s always my right side that loosens up so i think it’s related to me using them as commuting pedals as well, and all the unclipping wiggles them loose, no matter the loctitie color. did order a few bags of extra screws, just in case i dont check them often enough and another handful works their way out
@ten B I’m still runing version 1.0 but would love to update them soon. SWMBO’s 30th is in a couple of months though so all available funds are spoken for at the moment.
@the Engine
This happened to me as well when I had to repair a broken chain in muddy conditions, at the first set of traffic lights I just couldn’t get unclipped. You can buy just the baseplates from http://www.i-ride.co.uk/index.html. I love my speedplays and don’t think the greasing of the bearings every few months and a drop of dry teflon lube on the cleats every second ride is a hassle.
@Mikael Liddy
I am going to ask a long overdue question. What does SWMBO stand for? Apologies for the silly question.
@girl
Ha. I asked this very question about 2 months ago.
She Who Must Be Obeyed!
@girl
It was popularised in the 70s/80s TV series Rumpole of the Bailey. His wife Hilda was always referred to as She Who Must Be Obeyed, but the joy of it comes from the delivery by Leo McKern. Look it up on You Tube.
It is in itself a reference to the all-poweful queen in She, by the adventure novelist H Rider Haggard.
@Mikael Liddy
Thanks – I’ll ask but I don’t think they do…
@scaler911
Have always used the Cafe Covers so surface screw wear isn’t bad – there’s still plenty to engage with on the Philips headed screws on the part of the cleat nearest the road. The problem was the nuts that are embedded in to the adaptor plate breaking free of the plastic. It occurred to me that this might be a design safety feature so that if you crash and a cleat jams the binding fails before your leg.
@niksch
I’m beginning to need new shoes anyway as my Shimano’s have stretched somewhat – it would be good to finish the season with my current shoes and use them on the winter bike however you may be on to something here.
@roger
Yes I always unclip with my left foot to the extent that my right foot never leaves the pedal all day – its the right side that failed.
@snoov
That’s exactly what happened to me – 1kmph off at a junction waiting for a car to pass – unshipped the chain and couldn’t get the leverage to unclip.
@mouse
Thank you. I must not have been paying attention.
@ChrisO
Thank you. Will check out You Tube,
A few have chimed in with preferences, so here’s mine. I’ve ridden Look pedals for ages. Love ’em. Keo carbons from ages ago on #2 and new-this-year Carbon Blades on #1. Both have enough float and are easy in and out. No stresses ever with either set, and I’ve never done any maintenance whatsoever with either beyond the obvious geese on the thread on installation.
Current shoes are Sidi 5. They’ve been okay but took a whole to wear in, with a little pain on the outside of my right foot. Gone now and all good.
Apropos of nothing, I have a set of Time Ulteam white slippers I’ve never ridden as they don’t clear the pedal/crank, even with the clear all the way over. Size 47s. The Look pedals allow 2mm of Q adjustment with washers, but I cannot find any anywhere in Singapore. I have a pair of 1mm washers I have installed, but am not willing to tear the outer of such bling shoes so I’ll wait until I can get some more washers.
Screw you, iPhone autocorrect.!
@Blah
@Nof Landrien which blade did you go with? The more stiff red one or the yellow? I have the red and they certainly take more pressure to get into than the other steel spring set I have. I haven’t had issues getting out, myself.
@Blah yep I have Time shoes with nice crank scuffs all over the inside of the shoe. I assumed that it was my shovel like feet. The sidis I had before never suffered like that but were a noticeably “smaller” shoe. I don’t notice the contact between the crank and the shoes but it obviously happens enough to mark up the shoes. That said, they still bling! The Time shoes though are brilliant, absolutely no complaints. My only gripe is the irreplaceable heel…
As for pedals, I’ve used Keos for ages, simple, easy, straightforward. The bike takes enough maintenance as it is without throwing in the pedals as well. But see my last post, after 5 years of service and no attention they might be playing up.
@Giles five years, no maintenance? I’ll take that. On creaks, last creak I had was an alloy chain stay that had been chewed up by chain suck. Only found the tear in the metal when taking off the cranks to check the BB. New frame time then. Ouch.
@Mikael Liddy
All funds for a couple of months?! I think you need to replace the batteries in your Rule #11 meter – it’s obviously not working.
@the Engine
Maybe, but I doubt it. Probably more likely a manufacturers defect. Whatever you do, don’t let em get like this:
Missed a race last night cause I could get the f’n screws out. The mounting plate between the cleat and the shoe had come loose, so I just wanted to tighten it up. The cleats were still working fine, but as you can see, I couldn’t replace the screws anyway. Glad I had a backup set in the workshop.
@scaler911
Mine are in a much better state outwardly because of the cafe covers – we’ll see what the LBS makes of the torn mounting plate bolts…
You have a workshop?
In my dreams.
@Giles
The only problem I’ve found with Looks is removal. If you don’t remove them regularly (regardless of greasing), they can offer enough resistance to make removal using the Allen wrench difficult. I’ve borrowed friend’s bikes recently and wanted to put my pedals on them, but it took four broken Allen wrenches and a trip to the nearby Expo in order to remove the suckers. Even there, a burly 100+kg muscle-packet had to heave hard with a lever. Why go the difficult way instead of letting us have the good ‘ole standard pedal wrench?
@niksch – You might want to try some blue loctite on those screws. That should keep the screws from backing out on you.
@Giles – When I get the creaking in my pedals, I apply a bit of Tri-Flow to the pedal platforms. This eliminates about 75% of noises on my bicycle. The other 25% is because the cleats are old and no amount of lube will shut them up. *sigh*
@Daccordi Rider – I’ve heard that about the Mavics; that the cones come loose easily. I’ve had my Ksyrium Elites for a few months now, but haven’t ever checked that. I may just get that looked at.
@Blah – I’ve always wondered about the carbon blades. They look cool and everything, but I’ve been curious to see how much tension they have in ’em. After falling over in my first pair of Keo 2 Max’s because I’d tightened them down too far, my current pair is still at stock tension and they’re working just perfectly for me. How’s the tension on the blades, and which version did you get? … Oh, I see from a further post that you got the stiffer ones. I’ll keep that in mind for my future #1.
@scaler911 – Oh damn. That does NOT look good. That’s one of the reasons I wear cleat covers every time I get off my bike.
@tessar – I haven’t had that problem yet with my Looks. Then again, I’ve actually managed to take them off every couple months for crank-arm cleaning and whatnot.