The Bikes
The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.
It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.
The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.
If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.
- Rule #12 and the Cascade Effect
That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, ... - Guest Article: Black Is Not The New Black@kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
- Dialing in the StableThis was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
- Matching the drapes to the rugAs a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
- Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the HourEveryone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...
@Cyclops Try to be as accurate as this guy:
http://builderslife.blogspot.com/2012/07/17mm.html
@wiscot That is level for the SMP. It is slightly scooped like a horse saddle (more anatomical according to SMP) and the curved beak allows you to get on the rivet for those ghost aero-bar moments.
@Chris
Yes the seat post is a hold out from the old days of carbon, much in need of replacement. As for the rims, you would need rims drilled for that application, otherwise it would work. That’s one of the issues with wheel systems, you cannot just rebuild unless you go with a proper replacement part or a bit of jerry-rigging.
@unversio
I should have said that I felt like Pantani. I even climbed in the drops thanks to the tailwind. I sure as shit didn’t look like him.
@Cyclops
Nice blocks on ya!
@G’rilla
When I took Frank’s frame to a guy that had an alignment table he checked it and it was always less than 1mm out in all the spots he checked.
It looks like Kualis is using mitering jigs and holes saws to cut his miters…
…it should be no problem to get a spot-on miter that way. I hand file mine until they are right. Very tedious but it is a labor of love.
That Kualis stuff is pretty freaking sweet though.
@Cyclops
Oh please! You’ve been serious about building your own from day 1 – admit it!
@sthilzy
I can definitely see how electronic would be much more precise and powerful for shifting. Some pros refuse to run it, much Cancellara being one, to the chagrin of sponsors.
@Dan_R
I’m not sure I’m clear on what you are trying to say and I’m afraid I have no idea what a ‘stop & desist’ order is? The link you sent was for the complete bike, not the frame – the frames are specified here http://www.sartoantonio.it/. However, I did specify internal routing for this bike, as well as a few other things such as the integrated seat tube, colour, size, internal electric/Di2 etc. I was trying to say in my original post that I didn’t go for a lighter frame such as the RR02 (Built bike=Cima Coppi) because they are built simply to be functional & light and are not to my taste (or requirements) with round tubes and external cable routing.
Although I had no choice but to purchase through the UK importer I was in touch with Sarto in Italy throughout the build, both by email and telephone, an excellent Company to deal with they are too!
@Cyclops Cool jig. The very experienced guy who built my frame does all his miters by hand. In the spirit of the Giro, Avanti Deacon!
@Dan_R
Exactly, if you re-read my initial post I think you will see you have misunderstood… this is the Kilo frame built to my size/spec with the ‘standard’ Kilo frame shaped tube set/1k weave wrap. I am saying I could have had a lighter frame if I had sacrificed shaped tubes and internal routing.
@DocBrian
…. but look fugly don’t you think? For the similar money as Ultegra Di2 you can have Campag Record which, regardless of your opinion about its function, looks like it should be in an art gallery.
@Buck Rogers
bike sat up as per professional measuring and it is a vast improvement on hit and hope.
A great day for a ride near Niagara Falls.
yes yes, white bibs and short socks.
@thebaron Last time I was back visiting my old hometown (St Catharines) I had a couple good rides, including one which I followed the river from NOTL up to Ft Erie as part of the route. Anyway, I could not help noticing that on the Niagara Parkway the road bike riders in club kit cycled on the road, while everyone else cycled on the asphalt path which runs alongside. Just an observation, but it spoke volumes.
@strathlubnaig yes everyone else rides on the path for some reason. it appears the road has been re-paved fairly recently along the Niagara parkway.
@thebaron
Here is a shot with the newly paved Niagara (Ontario) parkway, it was amazing. First time ever on it.
@thebaron
@Mark1 Got it now. Sarto does outstanding work, good on ya. There have been a few (very few) knock-offs found, so as one of NA’s few dealers, I was just looking out for the consumer, so to say. I am more than happy to hear that you got the frame you were looking for. I have a Cima Coppi in the shop, waiting for a Miche/Chorus build for demo rides. Yes, the CC is built for function and weight, even the paint is lightweight! You need to post a pic once she is built up! And again congrats on a fantastic frame.
On EPS & Di2/Ui2, I had a Specialized Venge in the shop yesterday, kitted out with EPS Super Record (yup, nothing says I have money to burn…er invest, like a $6000 gruppo) and the gruppo had some nice aesthetics. Although, I thought the gruppo was out of place on that frame. N’est pas? (Note, I do not carry Specialized or any of the “Big Four” brands, this bike was in for a quick mid-ride wheel truing.)
@thebaron The road looks great, but I have to ask if the that is the matching jersey to the bibs???
Nice tarmac on ya
@Dan_R Nope. The only thing that matches is the fact that they were both made in Italy. i generally wear black with that jersey.
but yes the road was great.
I don’t think these are actually for sale. I couldn’t afford them either way.
@RedRanger
Seems like a waste. how much do they cost/
@thebaron
is this even real? how would you squeeze it?
@RedRanger Don’t forget the carbon fiber bolts for your bottle cage:
http://www.schmolke-carbon.de/carbon/carbon_uk/schraub.php
@thebaron
Shaken, not squeezed.
@PeakInTwoYears
lol yes Mr Bond.
It was posted on the Fairwheel bikes FB page. If you like bike bling, you should like their page. They do a lot of really costum stuff, even fabricating carbon stuff. Those Tune tea tests I posted a while back sell for $240 a set. These bidons are pretty expensive from what they said.
Just picked up a set of LOOK Keo Blade pedals, looking forward to testing them out. I’ve ridden Sprints and Max 2s, eager to see how these ride/feel.
Also switched from white pedals to black on the #1. Amazing how a small change can make the entire bike look different.
@wiscot
It starts on the dining room table, then, like new sneakers when you were a kid, you take them to bed. Finally you get them dirty and they become part of your every day life.
I need some front mech help as my n2 is stuck in the small ring. Tension and alingment seem ok but the shifter will only click up 2 times not 3 so the chain dumps back down.
Its humble tiagra thats covered around 6000km.
Any ideas where to start?
@motor city The adjuster might have cranked itself up (or you might have done it) or the limit screw could have moved (don’t think this happens often). Try backing off the adjuster first and try the shift. Then try to push the mech over with your thumb. If that didn’t work I’d undo the cable and make sure you can push the mech all the way again with your thumb. If you can’t it could be a sign that the limit screw has moved, adjust it till it works ok then click the lever as you would to get it in the small ring and than reattach the cable. @frank had a trick for the perfect set up of the front mech that he got from @tommytubulare I think. It could have been that you turn the adjuster (on the downtube or cable) right down, then you adjust it a couple of turns, then you attach the cable tight before backing off the adjuster a turn. Should be perfect after that. One learns best from mistakes so if I’ve remembered it wrong I’m about to learn something too.
@motor city
First check the obvious – clean the front mech, especially if you have thick, sticky sports drink in your bidon over the mech.
I would then check the limit screw. I had Tiagra years ago and the limit screw would tend to move. I finally put some thread lock on it out of frustration.
@Dan_R
The Venge/EPS combo is a frame killer, particularly the Sworks Venge. Had one rider go through 3 frames here recently, cracking the frame at the FD mounts. For some reason the position of the FD moves under upshifts, and pushes the chain into the side of the large chainring when shifting up. The FD is too strong and cracks the frame at the FD mountwhen that happens, and then the frame’s toast. Cannondale won’t warranty frames with EPS either, and when the guy put DI2 on there the problem went away.
Give me some recommendations for racing/training tires.
@DerHoggz conti 4000s
@DerHoggz Continental GP 4000 S, Black Chili. Nothing else is even close.
Although I do like Schwalbe and Maxxis for off-road tires.
http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle_de_en/themes/race/racetyres/gp4000S_en.html
@DerHoggz
Scwalbe Ultremo ZX.
Light, fast, great durability and puncture resistance.
@Ron
I got a pair of Blade carbon Ti.
Amazing weight difference from the Keo Max’s I had on. Generally they feel a bit more solid underfoot as the contact area is more broad.
Enjoy!
@mouse
Second that – they were great when I used them. 15 months, no punctures. Light, rolled well.
@Ron
I have some Keo Carbon Blades – got the stiffer spring. Nice and positive clipping in. Feel great, or at least they did back when I paid attention to them after getting of some Keo Carbons. Now they’re just there and they work. Great kit.
@DerHoggz Tyres are articles of belief… for every person who swears by one type, there will be another who thinks they offer as much comfort, traction or protection as a child’s balloon.
I assume we’re talking clinchers… I will get Conti GP4000 if I can’t find anything else, but I avoid Schwalbe. I like some Michelin (the old Krylions and Pro Race 3) but would not even bother to ride on Pro Race 4 because I can guarantee they will last less than 1 km. My favourite are Vredestein Fortezza Tri Comp.
It all depends on the type of roads, the type of riding and also the the type of punctures you are trying to avoid. For me it is little bits of metal from truck tyres that are most likely to cause damage and some tyres seem better at resisting that than others, but maybe not so good with glass or sharp stones.
So my real advice would be to just get a decent set – something over $40 per tyre I think is a good benchmark – from any of the big names and try them out in your conditions.
@snoov @itburns Cheers for your help. Will take another look at the bike tonight and your suggestions.
The cage seems to move across ok and the position indicator moves all the way to the left on the shifter. It then just seems to be missing the third click so the shifter idicator drops back to the middle and the chain also drops back.
@DerHoggz I ride Conti GP4000S (23’s) and get on well with them. I also have a pair of Conti Attack / Force that are really nice tyres but are too lightweight for the roads where I live.
My rain / commuting bike has Schwalbe Durano that have been really tough but have a pretty dull ride. When they eventually die I’ll go for Conti GP4000S (25’s).
@Blah
And I third that. had them for several thou km. no vices, no problems. Roll well Eric etc.
@DerHoggz
I use Conti GP4000s on N1 but to be honest I am not their biggest fan and I am slowly wearing them out so I can replace them, I prefer Vittoria tyres…the Evo Techs are nice, punctures are a matter of luck and I think some of the experience are fortuitous rather than analytical. Go for rolling resistance and comfort. I moved my winter tyres to Vittoria Open Evo Techs and they are beautiful…they wear quickly, but they make the ride so much better…
@Deakus
Have found that nice as they are, Contis cut up easily – except GatorSkins which are brilliant for day to day riding in poor conditions . Maxxis also have some nice hoops and even their race models have proven durable to me.
Nevertheless, am rapidly becoming a Vittoria fan. (? Tifosi?). Now on Vittoria Rubino Pro Slicks; they go well. Thinking about the Corsa CXs. 320 Treads Per Inch cotton……..There are a pair on the wall at my LBS calling my name and I have to pick something up there tomorrow. Clinchers admittedly but I’m not that far infected by the virus to glue my tyres yet. They are also a nice match for my Pinarello/Campagnolo bike. However, they will probably not be the most durable (which is almost a dealbreaker) as my local streets usually resemble KrystalNacht.
@ChrisO @ped @Deakus @tessar @wiscot @DocBrian
Thanks guys for your answers! Still dunno about electronics on bikes;
Here’s a bit of technology from the past the I remembered seeing on a friends bike. He had a National (Panasonic) 10 speed racer with FFS. There’s alot of FFS posted over the Velominati pages, but FFS is an acronym for Shimano’s Front Freewheel System. The cluster/cassette was fixed to the rear hub and the front chain wheels freewheeled! That mean’t you can change gears while freewheeling! It blew my mind back in the 80’s, still does now!
Here’s the Wiki on it https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Front_freewheel
Thanks to Sheldon Brown for the FFS ad
Watch very.very carefully;
Could this technology be improved for today?
@DerHoggz
Vittoria Evo Corsa CX. will cut up a bit but for race tyres, durability is probably not as important.
@sthilzy
Electronics are the devils work and should be avoided at all costs!
@Deakus
@DerHoggz
As others have said, depends on your local roads. I am quite fond of the 320 tpi Vittorias. Although they can be spendy, somewhat prone to puncture, and wear quickly, they are quite supple. Even better are Veloflex.
@DerHoggz
have nearly 4000km (3200km on current set) logged on Maxxis Re-Fuse without a puncture. Im sure there are others that are lighter and roll better, but the piece of mind is worth it, plus I’m always training and never racing.