The Bikes
The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.
It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.
The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.
If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.
- Rule #12 and the Cascade Effect
That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, ... - Guest Article: Black Is Not The New Black@kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
- Dialing in the StableThis was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
- Matching the drapes to the rugAs a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
- Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the HourEveryone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...
@frank
What happened to R3? You have a lifetime guarantee if you’re the first owner.
@Mikael Liddy
Hope you will dial your set-up because with that stack of spacers and 70 mm stem something gotta be wrong.Why 4cm shorter stem in one go? Try 1-2 cm and different stem degree maybe?
@Ron
You can repair the threads with threadserts. Found some here.
I’ve used them on my stem clamp and I’d say they hold better than the original tapped aluminium.
@frank
@frank
Is that your knee or are you attempting to smuggle walnuts into the country subcutaneously?
@TommyTubolare
When the time comes to spend a grand on cranks (maybe my birthday – VMH, are you reading this?) I’ll have to check with you on what you mean about the axle and BB cups. The BB Shell is BB30, so I assumed Rotor just had a standard BB30 set of cups, but I haven’t looked into it yet. When I look into things, I invariably decide I need to buy it immediately.
I mean with their chainrings etc, but I have to admit that when I posted that I crossed a wire and thought for a moment that their cranks allowed for both compact and standard cranks. Not that I’d ever – EVER – ride anything but a Flemish Compact. I’m also a bit Q-Ring Curious, just like I’m a bit Fixie-Curious. I just like that they have different chain wheel designs.
I assume the Aero rings are stiffer in addition to being dead sexy?
@TommyTubolare
I am the first owner, but apparently there is a clause that if they feel like being douchebags, they’ll just offer you a crash replacement. Given that I don’t want an R3/R5 in their new geometry, it didn’t seem worth it. Especially since Veloforma does a bike with very similar qualities, but with a race-oriented stack and a more stable head tube angle. And they will paint it in Velominati colors. What’s not to love? (I paid for the frame, bt dubs, in case anyone is wondering.)
One of the rivets on the bracket that holds the rear derailleur stop on the chain stay obviously corroded (even though I seldom ride it in the rain and when I do, clean it meticulously) and split the stay right along the seam. What kills me is the frame has never been crashed or hit by anything other than The V, but still they claimed I “must have hit it with a hammer.” More to come on that and I thought about suggesting that this would invariably wind up online but decided to let them treat me how they would treat anyone. I did tell them, however, that I own three Cervelos. It did not seem to matter.
The whole thing is very surprising because I’ve heard great things about their customer service and willingness to warranty their frames.
I loved that frame; I may send it to Calfee or some other carbon repair shop to have it repaired and move it into Rain Bike duty, replacing my also-beloved Soloist. If the repair is more than a few hundie, I’ll hang it in the shop as a memento to one of my favorite bikes I’ve ever owned.
@kixsand
If you don’t have wads and lumps of scar tissue from a lifetime of being a Velominatus, you’re not trying hard enough, mate.
I’m the same when I ski; if i don’t double-release at least once, I skied too conservatively. “Double-Release Frank”, they call me.
Coincidently I also carried the “Double-Release” moniker – although entirely unrelated to skiing…
@frank That doesn’t sound too proper; I wonder if the vaunted customer service was a casualty of being acquired by a bigger outfit.
A buddy of mine had a carbon frame repair done recently for a budgetatus price. Happy to track down details if you want them.
@frank
@Frank, that’s not really you, wearing the Yellow Skinsuit of Authority, is it? Say it ain’t so, Joe, say it ain’t so…
@Mikael Liddy
MMMM …. yep, been there ! Easy, but not the cheapest, answer is ” New Frame” … Ive got a serious neck issue at C7 and was riding a 56 cm Trek for a long time, all my “fit” measurements suggested a 56. I bit the bullet and test rode a few 54cm frames of varying flavours and settled on my 54cm Fuji SST. Massive difference in feel and riding ( notwithstanding the move from aluminium to full carbon ). Cant help but think that the frame size reduction has helped. Im 178cm tall and roughly a 79/80 inseam.
Out of interest how does yours handle now with the way shorter stem ?
After two years learning to ride and race on my first road bike (built by my own hands, piecing components together from LBS’s and other cyclists), I have finally gotten a true race bike. Although I have done very well in every race I’ve been in, I was cautious in my choice of frame material. Being a new cyclist, I opted not to spend the $ on full carbon, as I am sure that there will be many more crashes as I become a more accomplished cyclist. Also, I climb very well and although one like me may opt for a pure climbing machine, my weakness is cutting the wind with my small, 1.65m/64kg frame. This is the best aero aluminum frame that I could find in a proper size. Again, built with my own hands. So far, the energy saved on the flats has paid off in getting up the Japanese climbs of upto 1000m faster and without looking like death at the top!
Damn, Frank. I’d be really fucking pissed off with Cervelo. That’s awful customer service. And I wouldn’t have been able to say, “You do realize I am going to tell a whole bunch of cyclists who ride really nice bikes that you’re shite and wouldn’t help me out, right?”
I cracked a cheap frame from a big online dealer (my commuter, relax, not my 1, or n+1, or n+1+1, or even n+1+1+1) and after going around and around they’re replacing the entire bike. 1.5 years old too. And I get new 5700 10-s 105 that I’m swapping to a nicer bike.
scaler – I don’t see how a macrame saddle cover could be comfortable. I’m guessing you see a lot of those around Portland?
@sthilzy
You can repair the threads with threadserts. Found some here.
I’ve used them on my stem clamp and I’d say they hold better than the original tapped aluminium.
Hey sthilzy, cool and thanks for the feedback. I thought there must be something around like that. But…$110? Yikes. I’m thinking of going for a lightly used Force crankset. Looks like you can find them for around the same price and there are a fair number of them around.
It’s always crazy when you have a bunch o’ bikes and one breaks (or two for me right now!) and you have the feeling the world is collapsing. That’s how it is when every bike serves a very useful purpose. “Why do you have so many bikes?” Because I ride them all.
@TommyTubolare the change was as a result of a physio based fitting session that was prompted by some pretty significant neck & shoulder discomfort that has been present for a while but exacerbated by the arrival of the new baby & carrying him around recently. Basically the shop set up had me ridiculously over stretched, the spacers have been there from the beginning & given the change in reach will stay there until I become a little more comfy with that position.
@Barracuda not sure about the handling, haven’t had a chance to take it out yet & based on what the conditions sound like outside tonight I doubt that’ll change tomorrow despite the day off!
@Barracuda btw I’m 181cm & about a 32/33 inch inseam.
@all: while there has been frame sizing discussed here recently. My #1 is feeling small. I have a fizik Antares pushed all the way back on a 25mm setback post and a 130mm stem. My own (perhaps wrongly) determinations via comp cyclist fit calculator is that I need another cm plus of setback and that much more on the front half as well. Do I get a 140 stem and a post like FSA makes with 32mm of setback and calk it a day? Or have I found myself in n+1 territory?
Further note, I know n+1 is always encouraged but I do like my frame and guess really I’m curious if aesthetically the extreme stem and seatpost will look fantastic or not.
@graham d.m.
I’m inclined to recommend a session with a reputable fitter if you’re finding yourself looking at both limits of what’s commonly available as far setback and stem length go. That said, it sounds like a lot like how Frank’s bikes fit and he’s perfectly comfortable on them. I’m curious, how low are your bars? (i.e., do you have any spacers underneath your stem?) If you need more reach and can lower the bars to stretch out more, you may want to remove the spacers and try that. The comp cyclist fit calculator is nice to use as a general guideline, but I wouldn’t take it as gospel – I ride with a stem a full centimeter shorter that what any of the three fits would recommend based on my measurements, but then my Ridleys have 73.5 degree STAs that necessitate more saddle setback and therefore effectively lengthen the top tube by about 5mm.
@VeloVita I’m sure you’re right regarding a fitter. My bars are slammed using a slamthatstem.com cap. The issue is I have odd body measurements. My shop put me on a size 52 caad10. I’m 1.78m tall but have shortish legs versus torso and I have monkey arms. The 52 only has a top tube of 53.5cm. The fit calculator estimated a TT of 56-57cm with a 12cm stem.
@graham d.m.
I used that post on my R3 and it was a great post. Nothing wrong with a 140mm stem, despite everyone’s fear of them. You will look uber Pro.
But don’t let that stop you buying another bike. Fix this one up to fit with the stem/seat post and buy another bike just because.
@graham d.m.
“When in doubt — throw it ( wait ) — build up a frame that is as close to 100 percent as possible.”
This is why Cav rules…
@Cyclops
answer is spot on, but I bet that’s window glass in his hipster specs.
Ha, yup, as an eyeglass wearer I find it mildly annoying that people wear around fake glasses. Ah yes, my genetic defect is your fashion accessory.
On topic, a quick question: on my cross bike I have a 42/38 up front, an 11×26 in the back, run 52 link chain length. I’d like to try out an 11×28. I know I’ll need a longer chain at 53. How do I know if my RD will handle it? Is this a visual inspection or can you mathematically figure it out, like you can opt with chainlength calculators? SRAM Force RD. I know as you get up that high you might need a long RD. Thanks!
@Spun Up
I;’m not sure they are just a hipster affectation. Look closely through the lens at the fence behind. There is some distortion going on suggesting some kind of necessary lens. Sure, it’s not in the Stephen King range of visual assistance, but I think they’re on his face for a reason. I wear bi-focals and have different lens requirements for each eye, but don’t wear them while riding. Maybe Cav’s the same, doesn’t need them for riding, but for reading and other close-up stuff. Gotta love the new found appreciation of the real cap though. Hopefully it’ll catch on.
@wiscot
Cav rides in Oakley’s, as do I, and I’ve got standard Oakley prescription lenses in mine. Maybe he does too. Maybe that’s as close to being Cav-like as I could ever hope to be.
@Mike_P
Maybe he rides in contacts but prefers glasses of the bike. Who knows but there certainly enough distortion going on there to clear him of the hipster accusation.
Got to love him for the #capsnothats.
@frank
Really sorry to read this, Frank. I’m in the process of going through a Cervelo frame swap myself. BB shell cracked on my RS (no crashes) and as first owner I went back to them through the LBS for the warranty replacement. No arguments at all and got a call this week asking if I want an R3 or an S2 instead, as they no longer make the RS. Waiting for the frame to arrive but so far, so good. I wonder if like so many things in life, this depends on who the idividual is you’re dealing with.
Anybody here have a Mercian? I’m considering building up a traditional steel road bike as my n+1, but with modern components, seeing as I already own carbon and aluminum road bikes and my only steel road bike (a 1984 Club Fuji) is now built up as a town bike with mustache bars (since it was too small for me to begin with). I know there are tons of builders in the US, but I have an affinity for some of the older builders (and don’t particularly care for the aesthetics of Waterford). I really like some of the options Mercian seems to offer, and their prices seem extremely reasonable for a custom bike, assuming that you aren’t charged VAT if you order from the US (and that you don’t get hit with import duties).
@Ron
you can go to a 28t with a standard force der. and up to 33 tooth difference (between small-small and big-big). any more and sram’s wifli derailleur would be the choice, but if you are actually using this ‘cross bike for ‘cross, that strikes me as unnecessary.
Final piece in the puzzle. Upgrade work starts Monday night: bars, stem, shifter, cassette, fork. New saddle a couple of weeks ago. Pics to follow…
@Ron
Basically you’re talking chain wrap capacity and you run into problems the larger the difference is between your large and small rings since the you obviously need a longer chain for the big ring. The way I’ve been taught to calculate chain wrap is that you take the difference between you chainrings (in your case 42-38=4) and add it to the difference between the cogs you want to run (in your case 28-11=17…4+17=21 teeth). As long the result is smaller than the chain wrap capacity of your rear derailleur and it can handle the size of the largest cog, you’re fine. From what I’ve seen from the specs, SRAM Force short cage rear derailleurs can handle a 28 tooth cog (though that’s the maximum) and have a chain wrap capacity of 33 teeth. You should be fine. As far as chain length goes – for a cross bike I always run my chain as tight as possible.
@Steampunk a new fork?
@frank This is why I appealed to the wisdom of the Keepers and the community. Your response should’ve been my first instinct: fix the current AND buy a new bike. This is the learning curve of the pedalwan. Thanks
@unversio Ha! Done! As close to 100% will be attained!
Opinion needed – which color shift levers (black or silver) to go on a bike with black brakes (with silver shoes), black cranks (with black rings with silver accents), silver front and rear derailleurs, and silver hubs with black rims with silver machined brake tracks? Basically there is plenty of both black and polished silver on the bike so I figure either color will work, but what would you go with?
@VeloVita silver
@VeloVita I would say black by I would need to see the bike. What color is the tape?
@Steampunk
Nice! I’ve decided to go to a carbon stem on my Veloforma just because it is (a) glossy and (b) has a better color than the one on my R3 for the V-Paint scheme (the R3 had red highlights).
I have to say, I’ve never been so pleased in my life with how the spacer width and weave matches the stem EXACTLY. This is the only spacer I have that is exactly the same width as the stem, which has thinner side walls than do more other stems. And, based on how well the finish matches, I’m guessing the spacer might be made by Pro. I can’t remember where I picked it up; it wound up in my toolkit at some point.
This just goes to show, its the little details that really bring these things together.
@VeloVita
Silver
@VeloVita if your gruppo is not all matched, the shifters should match your derailleurs
@Pedale.Forchetta
@TommyTubolare
@hurricane_josh
thanks guys, I was leaning towards silver
@RedRanger
The tape is orange – it’s a cross bike. The frame is a matte forest green with a matte black fork
josh & VeloVita – thanks! That was very helpful information. I didn’t know about chain wrap yet. Have it all set up. Now I need to figure out the freehub body spacers. I had one 1mm spacer on the Mavic wheel with a 12-26 SRAM cassette. It worked fine. Now that I put on the 11-28 Shimano even with the 1mm spacer there is still a bit of a wobble. Some research looks like I need a 1.75mm Mavic spacer + a 1mm spacer. But…didn’t need this with my SRAM cassette, so I’m confused, as I thought they were straight-up compatible (Sram/Shimano cassettes.)
My ride for the next two weeks in Colorado/Utah… thanks @DaveTurner
@Ron I’ve never heard of that. What wheelset have you got? i know a 7spd cassette on an 8/9/10spd hub requires a 4.5mm spacer, but 8spd, 9spd and 10spd cassettes all go right on as is.
@brett nice wheels. To bad the bike is so bouncy looking.
@Ron
You need a Mavic hub body spacer. Mavic wheels are delivered including this spacer.
Go to your LBS as they might have one spare.
http://www.bike24.com/p27976.html
@RedRanger
It’s amazing… just got back from my first half-decent ride in Breckenridge, and the bike is way more capable than I am at this altitude (so far). Climbs like a demon, and just rips the descents, eats up rocks and roots and wants to be popped off every little roller or rock it sees.
@brett Breck is friggin high. Sounds like you are having a blast.
@Nate
Yeah it’s high alright! And we’re going a lot higher too… first few days have been a struggle to get acclimatised, and climbing is even more of a struggle than normal! Walking up the fuckin stairs is an exercise in oxygen debt!
Discovered my first awesome US beer too…