The Bikes

The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.

It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.

The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.

If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.

  • Rule #12 and the Cascade EffectRule #12 and the Cascade Effect
    That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, ...
  • Guest Article: Black Is Not The New BlackGuest Article: Black Is Not The New Black
     @kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
  • Dialing in the StableDialing in the Stable
    This was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
  • Matching the drapes to the rugMatching the drapes to the rug
    As a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
  • Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the HourFestum Prophetae: Waiting for the Hour
    Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...

15,871 Replies to “The Bikes”

  1. @brett

    My ride for the next two weeks in Colorado/Utah… thanks @DaveTurner

     

    Lucky git! You picked a good time to leave town, buddy. It’s eathquakes a go go here at the moment.

  2. Had my first road biking off today. Was out with my 10 year old son Angus taking the long route to the pub so he could get a decent length ride in. Unfortunately, he had a lapse in concentration and came off right in front of me at about 24kph. I clipped him and came down myself. Once I’d untangled him from his bike I realised he’s put his chainring through the back of his leg quite badly so I got my wife to come and pick us up. He displayed a shit load of V over the next couple of hours before he got patched up in A & E. I’ve never seen such a big hole in someone – fortunately he hadn’t gone into the muscle badly but it was wide enough that they couldn’t stitch it and they had to give him a local to be able to clean it.

    Just after the crash, a guy from a house we’d just passed came out when he heard Angus crying and kindly took our bikes into his garden so I didn’t have to leave them by the side of the road. I went back to get them this evening – nothing major to report, a small nick out of my saddle, a scuffed rear deraileur and a twisted shifter. The bars are carbon, though, is an impact strong enough to twist the shifter through 30-45 degree likely to have damaged them? I haven’t had time to strip off the bar tape yet.

  5. @Chris

    There are riders who have fallen and riders who are going to fall. Well done on changing membership categories.

    Glad to hear your little fella is ok – reminds me of a stack i had in a crit about 4 years ago.

    Racing with the young bucks (rather than in Masters), one of young fuckers (nothing like your son I am sure) attempted to pass on the inside of a corner with predictable results for about 8 of us. He was getting roundly abused by all and sundry, so much so that I took (very uncharacteristic) pity on him enough to tell the others to calm down, was just a mistake etc. So he and I ride back to the finish together, me with a decent amount of skin missing, him with no discernible injuries beyond a few scratches.

    He then says, “Those guys were much angrier than the ones I crashed with last week.”

    My sympathy for him abated somewhat.

  7. @VeloVita

    Anybody here have a Mercian? I’m considering building up a traditional steel road bike as my n+1, but with modern components, seeing as I already own carbon and aluminum road bikes and my only steel road bike (a 1984 Club Fuji) is now built up as a town bike with mustache bars (since it was too small for me to begin with). I know there are tons of builders in the US, but I have an affinity for some of the older builders (and don’t particularly care for the aesthetics of Waterford). I really like some of the options Mercian seems to offer, and their prices seem extremely reasonable for a custom bike, assuming that you aren’t charged VAT if you order from the US (and that you don’t get hit with import duties).

    Only just saw this – Mercians are very highly regarded among the audax crowd in the UK. Roberts is the other most-popular builder – I have one of theirs and love it dearly. And if you go further north then Bob Jackson. Have a look at them as well.

    I love Roberts – it’s a pokey little shop in a back street in south London where they come out to greet you wiping their hands. The lights flicker as they  they do the frame welding out the back, and they don’t bother with things like deposits before they get on with it.

    I highly recommend having a frame custom built. There’s nothing like it, and as you say, the price is actually quite reasonable. I don’t understand why so many people spend thousands on factory-built frames as a preference – it’s like saying “Yes I know I could get a Savile Row suit cheaper but I’m going to buy off the peg at Brooks Brothers.”

    My only concern would be that you won’t be there in person to try it out, but if you have a pretty good idea of what you like and how you want to be positioned that should be manageable.

  9. @ChrisO

    @VeloVita

    Anybody here have a Mercian? I’m considering building up a traditional steel road bike as my n+1, but with modern components, seeing as I already own carbon and aluminum road bikes and my only steel road bike (a 1984 Club Fuji) is now built up as a town bike with mustache bars (since it was too small for me to begin with). I know there are tons of builders in the US, but I have an affinity for some of the older builders (and don’t particularly care for the aesthetics of Waterford). I really like some of the options Mercian seems to offer, and their prices seem extremely reasonable for a custom bike, assuming that you aren’t charged VAT if you order from the US (and that you don’t get hit with import duties).

    Only just saw this – Mercians are very highly regarded among the audax crowd in the UK. Roberts is the other most-popular builder – I have one of theirs and love it dearly. And if you go further north then Bob Jackson. Have a look at them as well.

    I love Roberts – it’s a pokey little shop in a back street in south London where they come out to greet you wiping their hands. The lights flicker as they they do the frame welding out the back, and they don’t bother with things like deposits before they get on with it.

    I highly recommend having a frame custom built. There’s nothing like it, and as you say, the price is actually quite reasonable. I don’t understand why so many people spend thousands on factory-built frames as a preference – it’s like saying “Yes I know I could get a Savile Row suit cheaper but I’m going to buy off the peg at Brooks Brothers.”

    My only concern would be that you won’t be there in person to try it out, but if you have a pretty good idea of what you like and how you want to be positioned that should be manageable.

    Mercian have been around for years and have a very good reputation.  Based in Derby.  Funnily enough there is an article on them in this months Cyclist Magazine.

  10. Anyone still wanting a cervelo frame after Frank’s customer satisfaction disaster may wish to look here (??Uk only)

  11. @ped

    Since we don’t know the details it is between Cervelo and Frank.

    Did you inspect the frame?

    From my experience Cervelo has been replacing the frames for many clients even when simply they shouldn’t even consider a thought of replacing the frame.There is a process one should follow to get a warranty-via local Cervelo dealer,distributor and then contacting Cervelo directly.If a frame is to be warranted it simply will be.Instructions are on their website.

  12. @Nate

    Lovely bike mate.Very clean and neat lines.I don’t like the pedals but I’m sure you can live with that.Perfect call with bottle cages.Enjoy it.

  13. @snoov

    @snoov

    @Ron As I just fitted new tyres to my bike tonight (heading to the Alps tomorrow) I thought I’d let you know what my technique is for fitting them, I reckon this is how most folks do it but here it is. No tyre levers were used. I tried to get myself a set of Vredestein as suggested by @TommyTurbolare latex tubes but they haven’t arrived in time.

    Fit the first bead of the tyre, take care to check if there are directional arrows.

    Unscrew the valve and blow some air into the tube (with your mouth not with a pump, gently push the stem with your teeth).

    Get the tube sitting nicely in the tyre, if there are any kinks it’s stretched at the other side, work it back till it sits properly.

    Now get the tube in position with the rim so that the second tyre bead is sitting close to the rim.

    Start pushing the tyre over inside the rim, start opposite the valve and stop when it starts to get tight near the valve.

    Let all the air out and pinch the tyre together opposite the valve to make it easier to get the last bit in..

    Finish pushing the bead into the rim being careful not to catch the tube in between the tyre and the rim.

    Inflate a little then check the tyre is evenly seated.

    Once it’s seated correctly pump it all the way up.

    I used to struggle to get the last bit of tyre over because I didn’t let the air out or pinch the tyre opposite the valve. I think it was @Gianni who taught me this but tonight was the first time I’d tried it, worked a charm, and not obvious so I’m passing it on.

    I’d not do this.You always start at the valve no matter what inner tube or tire.The tight bit should always come up opposite to the valve.Also I never deflate inner tubes completely,especially latex ones, no matter how tight.If it means a blister than be it.Just get some air out but make sure inner tube keep its shape.

    .

  14. @snoov, @Marcus, @brett The velominipper is in good shape, enjoying a day off school with the playstation. Took him to the local GP prectice this morning, the nurse changed the dressing and said it looked good, the steristrips are holding it together well. She looked a bit shocked when she took the old dressing off and was impressed that he didn’t flinch when she gave it a prod.

    I’ve taken the tape and the shifters off and there’s no apparent damage to the bars so I should get away with re-taping and replacing the cables (needed doing anyway).

    I’ve also just realised that it looks like my bike toolbox has gone astray in the massive clear out we’ve been having. I’ve hunted high and low, nowhere so I’m begining to think they may have made an accidental one way trip to the tip. Made a quick list of the tools I kept in it thinking it’s only a couple of odds and sods, won’t be too much to replace them. Two hundred and fucking eighty pounds sterling. Aargh. Fucktard.

  15. @frank

    @frank

    @TommyTubolare

    @frank

    I have been using Rotor 3D Plus on my S3 and it’s the best crank I’ve had so far.I use NoQ 53/39 aero chainrings.Installed it using Rotor BSA 30 bottom bracket cups because axle on the 3D Plus is 30 mm.Highly recommended set up although you would need different BB cups.

    When the time comes to spend a grand on cranks (maybe my birthday – VMH, are you reading this?) I’ll have to check with you on what you mean about the axle and BB cups. The BB Shell is BB30, so I assumed Rotor just had a standard BB30 set of cups, but I haven’t looked into it yet. When I look into things, I invariably decide I need to buy it immediately.

    I like how flexible that crankset seems to be, and its the only thing I can think of to put on a Campa-equiped bike to go straight BB30.

    What does that mean? Flexibility of use I hope cause the crank is plenty stiff especially with aero rings.

    I mean with their chainrings etc, but I have to admit that when I posted that I crossed a wire and thought for a moment that their cranks allowed for both compact and standard cranks. Not that I’d ever – EVER – ride anything but a Flemish Compact. I’m also a bit Q-Ring Curious, just like I’m a bit Fixie-Curious. I just like that they have different chain wheel designs.

    I assume the Aero rings are stiffer in addition to being dead sexy?

    You should buy them in Europe though, much cheaper.

    Basically I mean the crank spindle-axle.

    Rotor 3D crank spindle has 24mm diameter and rotor 3D+ 30mm. You need BB30 frame cups either 24 or 30 based on a crank choice.

  19. @Andy Engel

    First post! My bike:

    k

    Nice bike, I had never heard of Isaac and had to look them up.  @Frank will be pleased with the Dutch endorsement!

  20. How do these rides stack up?

    Note Dogma was taken at my LBS last month as I rolled out the door so I know valve stem covers and rings vanished shortly after getting home, and final stem height is a work in progress on both.  As for the Dogma ..  I had a dream for 23 years …  and of course I am already thinking of what I would get if I did it all over again, but man it rides nice, and the descending…  Wow

     

  22. Crank arm length – I have 172.5mm on some bikes, 170mm on other bikes. I’m on the vertically challenged side with an appropriate inseam (though I totally tower over Nairo!). I need to replace a crankset on my cx race bike. It currently has 172.5s. Stick with what has worked or go with the shorter cranks? (and please don’t suggest I swap all of ’em out so I’m the same on all bikes, that would explode the Budgetatus)

    VeloVita & Tommy – Lemme look. It’s a Ksyrium ES wheelset. I pulled off a SRAM 10-s cassette, replacing with Shimano 10-s. I thought I was careful to watch what spacers I pulled off. I put on one 1mm spacer, the cassette wiggled when pushed on by hand. I added a second 1mm spacer, doesn’t seem right. This says I need a 1.75mm Mavic + a 1mm. Let me look at the cassette I pulled off. Maybe I overlooked the spacer I need. Thank you for the info though.

    http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_How-To_-_Part_2_3257.html

  23. @Ron

    Regarding crank arm length, I suppose some riders are more finicky/nuanced than others, but I wouldn’t worry too much about a difference of 2.5mm in length.  As you know from when we met at CX Worlds, I’m pretty tall (191cm) and were I to buy a crankset, it would be 175mm, but I have a 172.5mm crankset on one of my road bikes and honestly, I can’t really tell the difference.  Provided you’re comfortable riding the 172.5mm cranks on your other bikes, for a CX bike I would go with a the longer of the two sizes since CX is much more about stomping on the pedals to produce power when needed as opposed to consistently pedaling at a high cadence and the longer crankarms will give you more leverage.  Pantani used 180mm cranks for mountain stages for increase in leverage and he was quite diminutive.

  24. @Deakus The C35’s rock, I am very happy with the ride.  Some of my favourite roads are older pavement, and a few chip seal sections etc.  I am riding a 25c Continental on them and run around  and am loving it.  My typical rides have 500-1000m of climbing and we get some winds as well.  I read alot of reviews and couldn’t find much (any) negative.   I am just around 80kg and run them at 7-7.5 bar (100-110psi).   As it is a full new bike it is hard to really pick out what is the wheels, I did hit a solid cross wind on a descent the other day and I was going about 70kph+/- and didn’t feel it much so I think the 35 was the right depth, glad I didn’t go for 50’s.

    As for the Group-san vs Gruppo was (and still am) awake many nights thinking on this and will probably continue to be.  I haven’t ridden Campy for 20 years (for no particular reason just haven’t) but will probably build something up and try it out on the next bike project…

  26. @TommyTubolare

    @snoov

    Start pushing the tyre over inside the rim, start opposite the valve and stop when it starts to get tight near the valve.

    I’d not do this.You always start at the valve no matter what inner tube or tire.The tight bit should always come up opposite to the valve.Also I never deflate inner tubes completely,especially latex ones, no matter how tight.If it means a blister than be it.Just get some air out but make sure inner tube keep its shape.

    Your insight into all things tire related is always well thought out and informative.  Any further clarifications about why you recommend starting at the valve?  I have always started opposite the valve and, when a tire maker even bothers to publish instructions, I have only seen instructions to start opposite the valve.  Just checked some Continental instructions laying in the “document pile” and verified this again.

  27. @itburns

    @TommyTubolare

    @snoov

    Start pushing the tyre over inside the rim, start opposite the valve and stop when it starts to get tight near the valve.

    I’d not do this.You always start at the valve no matter what inner tube or tire.The tight bit should always come up opposite to the valve.Also I never deflate inner tubes completely,especially latex ones, no matter how tight.If it means a blister than be it.Just get some air out but make sure inner tube keep its shape.

    Your insight into all things tire related is always well thought out and informative. Any further clarifications about why you recommend starting at the valve? I have always started opposite the valve and, when a tire maker even bothers to publish instructions, I have only seen instructions to start opposite the valve. Just checked some Continental instructions laying in the “document pile” and verified this again.

    Wierd…I always start at the valve..but I have no idea why..I think it is because I want to make sure that part is seated correctly first…

  30. @itburns

    @TommyTubolare

    @snoov

    Start pushing the tyre over inside the rim, start opposite the valve and stop when it starts to get tight near the valve.

    I’d not do this.You always start at the valve no matter what inner tube or tire.The tight bit should always come up opposite to the valve.Also I never deflate inner tubes completely,especially latex ones, no matter how tight.If it means a blister than be it.Just get some air out but make sure inner tube keep its shape.

    Your insight into all things tire related is always well thought out and informative. Any further clarifications about why you recommend starting at the valve? I have always started opposite the valve and, when a tire maker even bothers to publish instructions, I have only seen instructions to start opposite the valve. Just checked some Continental instructions laying in the “document pile” and verified this again.

    I was always taught to start at the valve as well since due to the extra bulk of the tube at the valve it ensured that the tire was going to seat properly there.  I’ve never tried mounting a tire any other way.  I’m interested to hear Tommy response to this.

  31. @VeloVita the logic of starting opposite the valve is so you can mount a tyre easily – with just hands. Start opposite the valve, when the bead gets tight, if need be, you can slide the bead opposite the valve into the well of the rim which gives sufficient slack to mount the rest of the tyre.

    You cant do this if you start at the valve because you cant slide the bead into the well of the rim at that point.
    It does raise the possibility of pinch flats if you dont then ensure the tube is in the middle of the rim and the bead is mounted properly – but only if you dont take care to check the mount.

    You can still mount with looser beads and stronger hands by starting in any place – this is just the easy way.

  32. @Marcus

    @VeloVita the logic of starting opposite the valve is so you can mount a tyre easily – with just hands. Start opposite the valve, when the bead gets tight, if need be, you can slide the bead opposite the valve into the well of the rim which gives sufficient slack to mount the rest of the tyre.

    You cant do this if you start at the valve because you cant slide the bead into the well of the rim at that point.
    It does raise the possibility of pinch flats if you dont then ensure the tube is in the middle of the rim and the bead is mounted properly – but only if you dont take care to check the mount.

    You can still mount with looser beads and stronger hands by starting in any place – this is just the easy way.

    I thought I’d read this somewhere but I know @TommyTubolare gives good advice.  I’ve never been able to get my Vittoria tyres on without tyre levers until I started opposite the valve.

  38. First proper ride today on new wheelset & vittoria open corsa evo SCs – sold on both, more than living up to the hype.

  40. @smithers clean & simple bike, very niced indeed. Were you tempted to fit them separately so you could tell the difference in ride each gave? Seem to remember Steampunk mentioning it was something he kinda regretted after doing a wheel & tyre change at the same time.

  42. @VeloVita

    @Ron

    Regarding crank arm length, I suppose some riders are more finicky/nuanced than others, but I wouldn’t worry too much about a difference of 2.5mm in length. As you know from when we met at CX Worlds, I’m pretty tall (191cm) and were I to buy a crankset, it would be 175mm, but I have a 172.5mm crankset on one of my road bikes and honestly, I can’t really tell the difference. Provided you’re comfortable riding the 172.5mm cranks on your other bikes, for a CX bike I would go with a the longer of the two sizes since CX is much more about stomping on the pedals to produce power when needed as opposed to consistently pedaling at a high cadence and the longer crankarms will give you more leverage. Pantani used 180mm cranks for mountain stages for increase in leverage and he was quite diminutive.

    I agree.  Don’t worry too much about length.  I used to believe that due to my stumpy guns I should only ever ride 170’s. That still holds true for my road bike and XC bike, but by accident I had my CX bike built up with 172.5’s and I have 165’s on my track bike.  TBH, I really don’t notice the difference, and hadn’t really given it a second thought until you’d brought it up…

  47. @snoov

    @Marcus

    @VeloVita the logic of starting opposite the valve is so you can mount a tyre easily – with just hands. Start opposite the valve, when the bead gets tight, if need be, you can slide the bead opposite the valve into the well of the rim which gives sufficient slack to mount the rest of the tyre.

    You cant do this if you start at the valve because you cant slide the bead into the well of the rim at that point.
    It does raise the possibility of pinch flats if you dont then ensure the tube is in the middle of the rim and the bead is mounted properly – but only if you dont take care to check the mount.

    You can still mount with looser beads and stronger hands by starting in any place – this is just the easy way.

    I thought I’d read this somewhere but I know @TommyTubolare gives good advice. I’ve never been able to get my Vittoria tyres on without tyre levers until I started opposite the valve.

    I am glad I am not the only one with thumbs like jelly.  Prehaps I can now hold my head up high in public and declare that I have been able to get a tyre on without the use of levers!

    I will now mount starting opposite the valve.  Does this work for blow up dolls too?

  48. @smithers

    First proper ride today on new wheelset & vittoria open corsa evo SCs – sold on both, more than living up to the hype.

    I have to say, I am loving my Open Corsa SCs, the ride is sublime compared to the Conti GPs

  49. @Deakus

    could not agree more.

    stupendously smoother / faster / more satisfying than my GP4000s – my LBS did warn me….

  50. @Mikael Liddy

    they did have contis on originally and did a 50k mosman alps hit out on them – switched to vittorias and did an 80k la perouse / maroubra / coogee / bondi ride today : unreal – significant difference in ride quality, so much smoother. was very concious that they are way more fragile – expected them to blow at any moment  ~ but all good

    the combination of pro quality wheels and tyres is a joy – albeit clinchers not tubs…… they’re next year ………..

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