The Bikes
The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.
It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.
The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.
If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.
- Rule #12 and the Cascade Effect
That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, ... - Guest Article: Black Is Not The New Black@kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
- Dialing in the StableThis was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
- Matching the drapes to the rugAs a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
- Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the HourEveryone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...
@G’rilla
Ok, cool. Didn’t know that.
I have a 46/38. Did you swap the 38 for a 39? I’ve only otherwise seen 46/36, and 42/38
Okay, so this seems to look like the Red FD Ti is a bit tricky to install just right & I’m admittedly not a superb FD mechanic.
I did continue to work on the setup. The shifting is now pretty good from small-to-big, the paddle overshift has stopped…but when I push from small-to-big I have the cage rub on the back of the crank arm again. If I trim it one click, it stops. I guess I’ll try to move the FD up the ST ever so slightly to allow clearance and not affect shifting performance.
These are 2012 Force standard road cranks, 130 bcd. It came with a 53/39, I put on a SRAM 46 (had to grind down the chain pin a few mms because it hit the back of the arm and would allow the ring to seat on the spider) and left the 39 on the inside. I also have a 38. SRAM tech support did caution about this set-up, pushing me towards a compact. But, I had a few local riding pals confirm it would work and since I do use this cx bike for winter road riding, I wanted to stick with a standard crankset.
Thanks for the feedback. I’ll continue to fine-tune. Apologies for bad mouthing the goods when the problem lies in the user!
@Ron
if your FD cage is hitting the crank arm, wind in the lower limit screw (clockwise) until it doesn’t. Adjust it enough that it shifts the chain to the upper ring.
After many years in the commuting wilderness, I’ve recently took the plunge and upgraded my old On-One Pompino for a Colnago Ace. Its old enough to come with Campag Veloce. Getting used to these newfangled gear things. I’ve been riding fixed for too long.
@mouse
What do you mean by lower limit screw? Lower L limit screw is for a small ring.It needs to be adjusted first.Then he needs to limit H limit screw if the FD is hitting the crank arm.
@G’rilla
Fixed your post.
No mysteries mate, it’s just the way it is.
@mikael the whole shooting match or just the rubber?
The rubber I picked up from wiggle.co.uk, they’re more than Probikekit, but PBK didn’t have 25’s.
Wiggle is having a sale on them in 23mm, $55.28CAD which is criminally cheap. I paid $78CAD each for the 25’s.
The whole shooting match, I’d rather not say because my LBS gave me a wicked deal! Always showing up with good beer makes for happy LBS
@Ron
Get WD 40, attach the red,plastic tube and spray inside both shifters generously.Protect the bartape with a cloth.Leave WD to work in for a while and then press on the brake lever and blow out both shifters with compressed air.Repeat if necessary.After that use normal lubricant to lube the shifters.If that doesn’t help shifters are probably worn out.If you don’t have access to compressor WD will wear itself out and then you can lube the shifters again with normal lubricant.
@TommyTubolare
All correct. The lower limit screw isn’t marked on my Rival FD’s (ie. no L or H markings as on the rear FD). What @Ron needs to wind in is the upper limit screw which happens to be the lower most screw when you look at the front derailleur from side on. Interestingly the locations are reversed on the rear derailleur.
Thanks for the advice, TommyT and mouse.
Going riding tonight, will give the adjustment a go tomorrow (Saturday). Right, I thought the H limit/outer would be the one to turn to avoid FD/arm contact. But, I should give this a tweak before I go moving the FD up the ST or turning it in, right?
I’ll confirm the limit screws. I thought the top one closest to the ST was the inner limit on my FD. It’s like a ~2010 Red, but I’ll consult a tech doc. The L limit is set properly at this point already.
A really easy way to set the angle for your FD is put it in big/small, then make sure it follows the chain perfectly with 1mm gap to the outside.
Have you ever watched the sram tech videos on youtube? I put an entire bike together using nothing but those videos.
I have a new bike being built up and I need to accessorise.
The frame (TCR Advanced SL) is totally black – carbon fibre with black gloss decals is what I’ve been led to believe. My wheels are already totally black. Stem and pedals are black with white graphics and Campag Record groupset is carbon/black.
So I’m thinking of a few white bits to offset it, but white only, not red.
White tape, white saddle and white cables ? Are white cages (Elite Race) too much or will it be a perfect balance. IIRC The Rules are silent on cages. My only fear is that the white Elite cages look a bit cheap and glossy. Deda do a very nice carbon cage, with a white Deda logo.
First bike-world problems huh…
I haven’t seen the frame yet, even a photo. Hopefully I will get to see it in real life in the next few days but I need to order some of the bits that aren’t easily available here, or not in the right colour, so I can pick them up in the UK later this week.
My opinion, black bars, black saddle, gumwalls.
What saddle do you use?
Also, are the frames custom painted? I haven’t found a single black on black frameset.
@Weldertron
Not custom but direct from Giant. They have a set pattern with three colours (e.g. white/black/blue) and this was listed as Carbon/Black/Black. I’m assuming that until I see it – worst case it might have the Giant logo on the underside in white, as the Propel black frame does.
It’s a non-ISP version of the TCR Advanced SL, which I don’t think is widely available.
It will have gumwalls, which will look awesome on my stealth black Enve wheels.
I’ve actually never been a big fan of the all-stealth look, which is why I’m trying to steer away a little. The Enves just came like that, and the TCR was between black or white, and I didn’t fancy white.
Saddle will be a Selle Italia SLR Flow.
I need to start buying bikes direct…
What about team colors? I like the idea of white cables. I’m going silver to match my logos (Jagwire Racer)
Team colours are black, red and white.
@ChrisO Bontrager (gasp!) makes the very slick RXL Carbon cage in white that doesn’t look cheap (and not overly Trek-y, either). Unlike the cheaper plastic ones, the RXLs grip pretty tight.
@tessar Mmmm the white does look good.
I just picked up a pair of these – really like the look of them. The white is matte finish so it doesn’t stick out like a sore thumb on a black bike. The black carbon on the inside matches nicely with your bike.
@kixsand
@chrisO ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ these!
@Andy Pandy
Andy Pandy, that is quite a plunge you took, right into the deep end. That is a sweet looking Colnago. Gears are cool, or “go buttons” as we like to call the Campagnolo shifters. Nice!
@urbanwhitetrash
nah the rubber was what I was talking about, shall keep that in the back of the mind when the current boots wear out.
@kixsand
Sold – I like that. Will try to get them.
I forgot to mention that part of the reason for the pure two-tone on the bike is that the only colour on the frame will be the V cufflinks.
@kixsand Phew, Ribble were out of stock of almost every colour EXCEPT the white. The matte will be perfect, as the black is mostly matte too.
So I’ve also ordered a white Selle SLR, and white Cinelli bubble bar tape.
How did I live without a bike stand before today? I went with the Park PCS-10.
I have exactly enough seatpost to fit the grip. That’s custom!
@G’rilla +1 wish I’d got mine 20 years ago!
A month away from fall season, five months out from my goal race – testing time! Fetched a set of old square-taper 105 cranks in 170mm to test and compare to my current 175mm. Apparently “going short” is all the rage in time trialing, as it allows you to go lower with the same power, going more faster.
So, it’s an FC1056, which googling reveals to require a 107mm JIS bottom bracket. The bike currently sports Ultegra FC6600 cranks and, I guess, requires English Thread 68mm BBs. However, I can only find 110mm spindles – would these also be fine?
I haven’t done any crank-related work in my life and now seems like a good time to start: What tools would be required to remove a standard Hollowtech II crankset & BB, and install a square-taper? And the other way around?
@ChrisO
Cool!
I should mention that they make a glossy white cage as well. Make sure you get the right ones!
@kixsand No worries, I got the matte definitely.
Apparently the frame has arrived and it may have red Giant logos on it, which was not expected, but hey… don’t look a gift frame in the carbon fibre, or something like that.
The white will still look cool I think. Photos to be posted as soon as I get them.
@ChrisO “Don’t look a gift frame in the headset”?
ChrisO – seems like you’ve made up your mind, but Tacx Taos in white are what I suggest. Nice cages, light, and pretty cheap. I don’t like any of the alligator mouth cages, Elites nor others. Arundel does a pretty nice cage too. And good taste on the non-stealth mode. I was bored of that dress-up as soon as it recently became in vogue.
G’rilla – what? You just got a stand? I have a Park Tool remove-front-wheel, BB cup type stand, a lil’ guy that holds the rear wheel up and goes around the DT that is perfect for quick work, and a stand like the one you have. My dream is a wall mounted clamp to be installed after I build my shed. Trying to work on a bike is a huge PITA without a stand. Enjoy the new set-up!
And what are the thoughts on v-brakes vs. cantilevers for the cross steed?
I currently have FSA SL-K cantilevers with Kool Stop pads. They are getting near replacement and I’ve been thinking about Avid Shorty Ultimates (still cantis though) or the TRP CX8.4. I ride and train more than I race, it isn’t that wet/muddy where I live, and my wheels are nice and true. Seems like the TRPs tend to be a nice upgrade unless you live in a place with tons of mud, where clearance is an issue. They’ll be mated to Force shifters, which I think work nicely with them in regards to lever pull.
I use the 8.4s. Very good stopping power, but they don’t have the greatest modulation. (I tend to lock them up a lot in the back, being used to a road caliper)
The purists will call heresy.
@G’rilla you may want to wrap a towel around the post to prevent any scratching. but its a great stand. mine stands up in the corner of my living room when I’m not using it.
@Ron Tons of mud is no problem for TRP V-brakes. Theory doesn’t match up to practice on this one.
http://www.trpbrakes.com/article_detail.php?aid=23
@G’rilla
To me they look like they’re pretty clogged.
I have Shorty Ultimates. Love ’em.
@mouse
The v-brakes are better stoppers hands down. I disliked em because every time one tampered with them (like to swap pads) the infinite adjustability added futz factor time.
I went with the shimano cx-50 and 70, work awesome. actually can stop a bike on a wet road descent.
@tessar
Before answering the “which tools” question, The length of the spindle is going to change your “Q Factor” which may or may not be a good thing for you. And it’ll mean some adjusting of the rest of the drive train. Which may or may not make it noisier.
I was always taught that you want to go as long as possible in crank arm length to get as much leverage as possible, on as big a chainring as you can push. Worked for me, but then I’m fucking old.
But I’m guessing you can pull the gig off with 3 tools.
One of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-BBT-9-Hollowtech-brackets/dp/B000C12BMW (to remove the current BB)
This:
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Compact-Crank-Puller/dp/B0028YUZSS/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1378703383&sr=1-2&keywords=park+crank+puller (to remove the crank and can tighten the bolts on the “new” one).
a 8mm hex.
You might need 2 more to install the new BB, but I’d need to see it. This will be more than an hour and a beer in the garage if you haven’t done it before. G’luck!
In other news (and to stir up trouble), I was thinking of writing another drunk article about how we’re about to be subjected to road disc brakes. I ran across this and it summed it up better than I could.
(from yourbikehatesyou.blogspot.com.au)
@scaler911 I have really been enjoying that blog and the FB page. now if only I could figure out what shop this guy works at here in AZ.
@scaler911
Right, sounds like fun. I’ve wrenched on other parts, but never touched the crank area before.
Regarding the Q-Factor, apparently Shimano’s been pretty consistent with it. I’d rather have it narrower, but that’ll have to wait for the final crank – this one’s just a cheap test for the new length.
Thing is, this whole leverage thing was pretty much debunked – from 140mm to 180mm cranks, there’s barely a change in power given equivalent positions. However, shorter (again, mine will be 170mm, which is only short if you consider I’m 188cm tall) cranks allow larger hip angles, which, if you’ve already maxed out on the long ones, allows you to go lower again. On a TT bike, that’s of paramount importance. At the same time, shorter means smaller radius, therefore slower effective muscle contraction velocity – so faster cadence becomes easier.
We’re obviously of different schools of thought, since the next crank might even be a compact, even though I’ve gotten along perfectly fine so far with the Flemish Compact. The mathematics of riding dictate that since I don’t sprint at 70+km/h, I might as well use a 50×11 as my top gear and ride a narrow 11-25, or even 11-23 cassette on the flat races. It takes almost 60km/h for me to spin that one out… A 12-30 cassette is just as shameful as a compact, and that’s what my races currently require.
@gaswepass
So the CX-50/70 look to be cantilevers. Would these at all be an upgrade over my FSA SL-K cantilevers?
G’rilla – hmm, so you use V-brakes for cx in the PNW. I think this means I’d be just fine riding here in the mid-Atlantic, not nearly the amount of wet, muddy races. I only have one cross wheelset (though I do put on road wheels for wet winter road riding) so the futz factor shouldn’t be a big issue if I try out some v-brakes. Seems like the TRP CX8.4 have some pretty good reviews.
And how about sealed Nokon housing? Smart idea on a cx bike or just regular cables swapped more often? I have the triple TT cable routing, with one long exposed cable under the DT for the FD. I guess you use the liner sleeve on these exposed parts? Or was that only with the Gore Pro stuff, which seems to have been discontinued.
First time posting one of my steeds on here, here’s bike #2, my classic steel machine.
It’s a Motobecane (Jubilee I think) with Campag Veloce and Mavic CXP30s that have a lovely pale bronze finish. Only change now is I have a black suede Turbo saddle rather than the elephant hide jobbie in the pic.
@Velocitractor
Very nice – the gumwalls look good on those wheels. Nice ride ?
But… there is a form to be followed you know.
Photo from drive side, no bidons in cages.
I will assume you do lengthy audax rides which necessitate walking in and out of village halls and control points and this is your post-dated TUE for using SPDs ?
@ChrisO Damn it. I had noted the SPDs and was holding it back for the London Cogal. You know, start the thing off with a ritual mini pump thrashing of a transgressor.
@Velocitractor Nice bike, though.
Damn you eagle eyed Velominatus!
SPDs make it easier for the pub stops – that’s my excuse. I shall be using SPDs for the LDN Cogal so get your piss taking ready!
I’ll have to keep my eyes peeled for any infringements…
Never officially introduced my first race bike, but after a cracked frame after 2 years of Belgian glory, I figure it best to show her on the way out, while at the same time starting my relationship with Bike #2 on the right foot. Very first time I built a bike and it was a wonderful experience. Had some issues, but all in all it was very rewarding to see just exactly how everything works together to keep you upright at 85kmh downhill.
Lessons learned:
Framesets do not always come with a headset just because they are pictured assembled with the fork.
Said headset may not be able to be swapped from prior roadbike, needs to be ordered in advance particular to your frame, and you need a tool to press fit at least the fork crown race onto the fork (bearings were cake though as they were drop ins). In the absence of said tool you can always use a piece of scaffolding from the renovation of your home and a mini-sledge to accomplish the same thing.
On that note, they say it takes 5-7 hours for a race mechanic to build up a tour bike from scratch. I didn’t see how it could take that long but I also forgot the demands of renovating a house and NOT being single. One week later and several big rides missed, I am the wiser……..
Routing cables involves a bit of finesse. I am relatively happy with the result, but think it could be a bit better on the drive side for the front brake and front derailleur.
Dishwashers can be used to remove the prior bar tape adhesive, well at least heat it up enough that its nice and goey and possible to remove with wet wipes.
Make sure you insert the cables in your shifters properly. If you don’t ( like I did) you might wind up with the cable end not in the holder, and in a delicate position within the shifter necessitating disassembly. Shifters apparently have the same mystique in cycling as automatic transmissions do in automotives. Yes I broke mine……….then I fixed it. The two hours inbetween of cursing, ‘ahhhhhh haaaa’s, and scratching of the head were the most rewarding part of the assembly.
Wrapping your own tap is not that hard! Got it on the first try and while its not perfect it is sooooooooooooo much better than the tape that came stock on Bike #1.
All that is left is to build my set of DT Swiss 585 wheels which are sitting in the garage. But first I’m going to christen the new bike in a fitting belgian way: Rule #9
Enjoy the pics, and apologize with the quality. Just point & shoot as the focus was more on the build and copious amounts of beer then photog skill.
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