The Bikes
The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.
It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.
The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.
If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.
- Rule #12 and the Cascade Effect
That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, ... - Guest Article: Black Is Not The New Black@kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
- Dialing in the StableThis was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
- Matching the drapes to the rugAs a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
- Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the HourEveryone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...
@DCR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mint-Cond-Lemond-Full-Carbin-Road-Bike-Personal-AD-/111202283016
This is a bloody travesty! “Carbin” frame indeed…
SRAM is already doing a recall on road hydro brakes. victory for tradition.
@RedRanger Really? Blimey, bad PR for them then!
Autumn/Winter Base Layer – I have a long sleeve Craft base layer that I dig.
I’m after a shorter sleeve base layer for the upcoming cooler months. I have jackets, jerseys, etc. for cold weather, I’m after something for around 4-12*C. I dig merino wool, I know the DeFeet base layer is liked by some ’round these parts, and I have their Kneekers and like those.
a) sleeveless or SS? Would be paired with arm warmers, will SS be bulky under the V-jersey or is it silly to leave part of your arm uncovered?
b) any other nice base layers for cool weather? I’ve seen Solo has one, don’t think Craft does Merino.
@VeloJello
Oooh! A double water bottle holder on seat pole! Seat pole?
@revchuck
The nice thing about steel is that it is easier to refurb and repair (if needed). Way back when, before I rode Alu and then Carbon I used to spray WD40 inside the frame, seemed to work pretty well at reducing rust. Planning on the same approach – if I find a suitable frame.
@VeloJello http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/news/article/sram-hydraulic-road-brake-recall-expected-38920/
@Teocalli Agreed. My Colnago is a well used late 70s frame. The outside has been stripped and painted more than once, and shows very minor surface pitting and a small spots of surface rust. I coat the insides of the tubes with JP Weigle if I have it on hand, or a light lube if I don’t. The inside of the tubes have a thin layer of oxidation, but nothing that’s come close to compromising structural integrity. And that’s after more than 30 years of service!
On the repair side, it’s been re-welded on the chainstay and dropout and continued to work just fine. I would not hesitate to ride it in bad weather.
@Weldertron Agree with comments posted by others. Nowt wrong with the SRAM Omnium. I don’t use it but know a couple that do On decent Felt Track bikes. No issues and the 144mm BCD allows you to use a range of decent quality chain rings. BB’s cheap and easy to replace. I use DA cranks snd FSA rings. DA hubs. 4 years old on training wheels and still as smooth as ever. Miche OK. I have 20 year old Campy Record on s spare set of tubs. Not even DA can touch them for quality.
Thanks for the help guys. It’s a mid budget build, as it’s the first frame I have ever built.
The Omnium will look the part as i’m building the entire bike with oversized/shaped tubing. I know the sloping top tube will be controversial, but if i wanted a level top tube bike i would just buy a frame. My reasoning is the shorter seat stays will keep the rear end super stiff for my massive wattage (more like wantage).
I will probably use a complete Deda finishing kit. The initial wheel build will also just be some aluminum hoops. If i love racing ill eventually build some deep carbon tubs.
@Ron
The sleeves make a big difference, especially when doing a gilet/warmers combo that small uninsulated gap makes a big difference.
@DerHoggz
I agree, definitely sleeves for a winter base. I’ve got the Defeet merino, paired with the Defeet arm warmers, a SS V-Jersey and V-Gillet, I’m good down to about 0C in the dry. It’s such a versatile combo that I can’t remember the last time I wore my LS V-Jersey.
Other nice cold weather base layers? I’d say my Rapha merino short sleeve lifestyle accessory is pretty damned good and worth the money.
That feeling when FedEx says they are not sure where your bicycle is…
Is it N1, or a newly acquired steed?
@Weldertron n+1
I’ll pray to Eddy for ya.
Last-ish track question. Crank arm length? I usually run a 172.5 I’ve heard you should run shorter for the Velodrome. Any opinions? I plan on running a 48 until I get a feel for what I like.
@Teocalli
Stand by for more on this later, but carbon is just as easy to repair as any other material. Steel rusts, and that is really its big downside. Apart from that, any material can fail; a good friend spent a few days in hospital after a steel fork collapse. No material is immune from failure.
Instead of WD-40, try Frame Saver.
@Weldertron if you are referring to me this was a +1. Not sure I’ll sleep well tonight….
Sadly I had to return the Colnago which had started to feel like a part of me, and left me with the dilemma of what to replace it with. I decided to build up my own Dream when I found this frame on eBay. It turned out to be in perfect condition despite having been repainted, it had been done well with the white decals. The campagnolo parts were variously sourced and the end result turned out better than the one I had borrowed and has now done quite some miles. Just the winter to get through and I already can’t wait for spring 2014.
I’ve met some great people along the way who have offered fantastic help and advIce. The V provides a great mix of guidance and humour and the rules offer us all a set of standards to keep cycling to. Keep it up guys.
i can see I’ve violated a few rules with the bike but I’m learning and will put them right.
jerry
@colonel Strong work and nice bike. Embrace the winter, it’ll make spring so much sweeter.
@Weldertron
165’s is what I run. I have Omniums. They seem fine.
Forget 172.5’s, you will be getting pedal strikes on the banking. Not recommended!
indoor or outdoor velodrome?
@Chris thanks. I agree, I just have to review my summer wardrobe!
@colonel
Welcome! I had a Colnago once so I can empathize with your delight. Great looking bike too. You’ll get lot of grief around here for the fenders, but I have a more practical question: how do you like those crud catchers (that’s what they are, right? I have Planet Bike 1/2 racing guards on the winter bike and they work well, but I do fancy a set of the ones you have.
@frank
I’d be very wary of trusting a carbon repair. A friend had his chain stay crack and wrap his rear mech in to his wheel half way down Luz Ardiden after it had been professionally repaired. In fairness, the chain stay still looked better than his road rash. I sense an article coming from you, Frank.
Past the 10,000 mark here, nice!
Hmm, a Colnago with fenders. Nice bike, I just wouldn’t be able to beat up a black beauty like that in rain and winter riding.
Crud Mudguards. I used them on my No.1 for a winter. They work pretty good on a race bike, as full fenders of most other makes are hard to fit. They take awhile to install, as most fenders do. I also snapped one off when I tilted my bike up to wheel it down a narrow hallway.
Before you put full fenders on a race bike, I have some alternate ideas:
1) get a cross bike 2) ride cross in really bad weather 3) use your cross bike on the road in bad weather with road wheels/tires 4) get a used cross frame for cheap, slap on whatever parts you have around, use that with full fenders 5) get a used, cheap-ish road bike. I got my road rain bike for $500 and it’s a pretty darn nice bike.
I love riding in bad weather, I know bikes are waterproof (if carbon!), but n+1 is right there staring at you. I personally couldn’t go on subjecting my N.1 or N.2 or N.3 to grimy winter riding.
All this talk of winter bikes. What’s wrong with the school of thought that says, I am a Velominatus therefore I care for my machine; it gets wet and dirty, I clean it and lube it and ride it?
@Mike_P Abso-lutely! OK, its a chore, but the joy of stripping and cleaning my bike after a filthy ride, then standing back and admiring it is the finale of a Rule #9 session.
@wiscot
Well, I do agree. I did say I wouldn’t ride it through the winter but I just wanted to extend the season a little. The Crud2s were recommended to me and they’ve worked out well so far. Easy to fit and you can extend them with additional pieces for fuller coverage. I’ve seen the results of Paris Roubaix and I wanted to cut down the cleaning. It seems a little considerate on group rides?
in terms of winter use, I’m easier about it on the basis of keeping the Colonel cleaned and lubed, but I understand the wear issues. Things wear out anyway, why spoil the enjoyment?
@wiscot
@Mike_P
The biggest thing is how much wear it takes; all the road grit wears out your drive train like crazy, and the rims take a massive beating as well. Not to mention the cables get completely fucked. And, depending on your material of choice, you could deal with some corrosion (especially if you live somewhere where they use salt.)
You can’t just clean that stuff off; you have to completely overhaul the bike to get it reasonably back to working order. Every year, I’m amazed at how much shit comes out of the rain bike when I strip it down to the frame and service it for the next season.
It comes down to keeping your #1 in as a good a condition as possible, for as long as possible. Then a rain bike is a good, comfortable, and reliable bike, but not nearly as valuable and expensive to maintain. For instance, my rain bike has a cheaper cassette and chain, and wheels that I can easily service and replace the rims on.
@Mike_P
I suppose it’s a matter of opinion, AND who is doing the work. There’s a local shop here that has fixed some completely screwed carbon to better than new condition. I think it’s a matter of looking around for someone with the knowledge and equipment to do the job right.
@frank
Exactly. My winter bike is a gash alloy frame off the interwebs with generic components. Still a nice ride and dialled in the same as my others, but it’s just easier to go out in the shit weather when you’re not fretting about the likely damage being done to a #1 or #2. FWIW I’m in SE WI and they use a ton of salt on the roads and increasingly a grit/sand mix. Th guards I use not so much to protect the bike, but me from incessant cold wet spray. Say what you like, but 3-4 hours with totally frozen feet isn’t fun.
As the immortal Shug Donald of the Regent CC used to say, “the only thing that keeps you dry is the fuckin’ hoose!”
@wiscot
Sage words from you both, thanks. I think “bombproof” is kindof the watch-word.
Not much better than this project Velocolour is working on.
Thanks, Hoggz & Chris regarding a fall/winter base layer. Ah, right, bare arm could really change the ride quality. That amazes me every fall when temps drop – a thin gilet, full finger gloves, a zipped up or down jersey can change everything, let off some heat, trap some in, the smallest changes can make an enormous difference in comfort.
Right on, Chris. One of the many benefits of being a Follower is that I no longer waste time debating things like full jacket or gilet, knickers or leg warmers. I ride the same bib shorts, base layer and jersey in most conditions, then add on Kneekers, arm warmers, maybe a cap when temperatures drop. It keeps things simple when pulling out the kit for a ride. (I do live in a pretty mild-winter cycling playground these days though.)
Back in the days when a car engine looked like a car engine and it used to be possible to service the things yourself my Dad always used to say that you have not really started a job until you have raised blood on your knuckles.
Just came across the below re the moments when things were not “going to plan”……
Quick threadless headset adjustment question. I swapped out a black stem/fork steerer shim for a silver one to match the stem. This is a 1″ to 1 1/8″ adapter, needed to put a Thomson stem on this steel fork.
I filed the shim down so that it is perfectly flush with the edges of the stem, now I can’t get the preload right to snug up the headset, get wobble when I grab the brakes and rock it. The shim is perfectly flush, might it need to be a bit longer?
Before I pull the shim off and compare it to the original, wanted to inquire. Also, is there a way to sort this out besides getting a new shim and starting over? Could I maybe take just a tiny bit off the top cap bolt and this would allow things to be snugged? I’ve tried it a few times, the bolt is tightened, then tightening the pinch bolts on the stem, but there is still wobble. Thanks!
@Ron
In my experience the cap usually has a lip to seat inside the spacer, therefore your stem should be 1-2 mm shorter than the spacer stack and not flush. Also if they are flush you will never get any pressure on anything but the steerer tube which is pretty much what you are finding. If you think about it you must have a small difference to be able to apply some preload.
@Ron +1 to Teocalli, you need a small cap to apply the preload. Not sure why you would file the spacer down to match the stem as the cap should hide any gap. Good news is you should be able to file the stem down just enough to allow the preload cap to do its job.
@Ron
Just so we understand exactly what you did – I think what you’re saying is the when you insert the shim sleeve into the stem, there was extra material either under the stem or on top of (depending on which why you inserted it) basically because the stem and the shim have different stack heights (I have a shim like this on one of my bikes). You filed the shim down so it had the same stack height as the stem and therefore fit completely inside the stem with no extra material sticking out. Is that correct? If so, what @Teocalli said about the extra space of 2mm or so the stem or spacer should have over the steerer tube that’s necessary to preload the bearings may have been lost. Therefore you may need to add a spacer either under the stem or on top of the stem to add that 2mm or so back.
@Ron
Also, if the Thomson stem you’ve got is the X2, its stack height is approximately 4mm less that many other typical stems (and possibly the one you previously had on the bike) which could have also contributed to the loss of that extra space needed to preload the headset bearings. Again, a spacer below or on top of the stem to re-establish that gap should allow you to get the adjust the headset properly.
Getting closer to compliance…..
Carbon steerers, and recommendations on how to saw down so I can slam my stem compliantly please? Have sawn down steel and alu in the past but would rather take a bit more care with n1…
@VeloJello
If you’ve done steel and Al, then carbon is no different. I just used a fine tooth hacksaw and it worked great. I’ll assume you already know about measuring the thing. I suppose if you wanna be really anal, you could wrap where you’re going to cut in tape, tho I don’t think that’s necessary. And wrap the steerer with something like a shop towel if you’re going to clamp it in a vice (don’t clamp very hard, just enough to hold it still). Measure twice, cut once.
@VeloJello
I think most places recommend a special blade that is closer to a grinding/cutting wheel so it doesn’t rip the carbon or something. Park Tool sells one.
@scaler911 Thanks for that. I thought that was the case but would rather follow the voice of experience.
@DerHoggz cheers!
@VeloJello for a clean cut, start on one side, flip over and finish from the other.
@Nate Many thanks Nate! All this great advice should result in me not fudging it up…
Anyone looking to rid themselves of Sram red/force parts? I am looking for shifters and f/r derailleur.
@VeloJello
Seems like you’ve got three? Spacers under your stem? Maybe rather than dropping all three at once you could remove them one at a time, taking time to get used to each new position, keep one above and consider 2mm of carbon for under as well.