The Bikes

The Bike. It is the central tool in pursuit of our craft. A Velominatus meticulously maintains their bicycles and adorns them with the essential, yet minimal, accoutrement. The Rules specify the principles of good taste in configuration and setup of our machines, but within those principles lies almost infinite room for personal taste.

It seems in some ways like a kind of Stockholm Syndrome, the way we honor our machines. We love them to a point that lies well beyond obsession. Upon these machines upon we endure endless suffering, but also find an unending pleasure. The rhythm, the harmony between rider and machine, the outdoors, the wind in our faces and air in our lungs.

The Bikes is devoted entirely to our machines. Ours, The Keepers, and yours, the Community. It features articles devoted to our bikes, and proves a forum for uploading photos of your own machines for discussion. We will be harsh, but fair; this is a place to enforce and enhance our observation of The Rules.

If you’d like to submit an article about your own beloved bike, please feel free to send it to us and we’ll do our best to work with you to include it.

  • Rule #12 and the Cascade EffectRule #12 and the Cascade Effect
    That is a very reasonable opening salvo for the Rule about bike ownership. Three is good and certainly a minimum, and we are talking road bikes here, if there was any doubt. They naturally become ordered: the #1 is ichi-ban, top dog, go-to bike for every and all rides. #2 was the old #1, ...
  • Guest Article: Black Is Not The New BlackGuest Article: Black Is Not The New Black
     @kogalover is singing my song here. Bikes are beautiful. ’nuff said. VLVV, Gianni With all those posts on riding in winter and being visible, either by putting Eyes of Sauron or other car melting devices on one’s steed, or by even considering a YJA instead of donning plain black kit, it was about time to finally get ...
  • Dialing in the StableDialing in the Stable
    This was going to be an article about Rule #45. It is amazing how much time is wasted and matches burned when professionals stop for that second bike change to get back on their #1. With all the jigs available to team mechanics it would seem they could set up five bikes exactly the same. And ...
  • Matching the drapes to the rugMatching the drapes to the rug
    As a longtime titanium bike owner, I’ve always been jealous of a beautiful painted frame but Ti and carbon frames don’t need paint like a steel frame needs paint. But I want some painted beauty. It’s like buying a white car; I can’t do white, need some color. So between a Ti frame and a ...
  • Festum Prophetae: Waiting for the HourFestum Prophetae: Waiting for the Hour
    Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth. – Mike Tyson The one thing everyone should always plan for is that however well-conceived a program might be, things will never go to plan. The high level plan for my Festum Prophetae Hour Ride was as follows: Have a custom Hour Bike built by Don Walker. Because reasons. Reasons like custom ...

15,871 Replies to “The Bikes”

  1. @frank

    I must confess that I’ve only been communicating with Royce this past year — this pair not mine. Image noticed from a Facebook post by VELETAGE SALON FÜR RADKULTUR. I am keeping the idea fresh though.

  2. A new CX bike. Final assembly on Thu and 80k, 1700 meters (50 miles, 5600′) of red Georgia mud on Sat at Southern Cross CX race. This bike is heavy. 21.3 lbs (9.6kg) in photo and 20.6 lbs after cleaning. And that’s with ultra light Industry 9 wheel set. Steel frame Ritchey Swisscross disc. Set up with hydraulic disc brakes, mech 105 front and rear derailleurs. Ultegra crank. The combo mech/hydro levers are very heavy/substantial pieces of componetry. Little wonder the Ultegra hydro group is set up as Di2. Saves a lotta mass in the lever. Early crash in race resulted in rear wheel taco’d when dude behind me launched off my rear wheel = thank goodness for the disc brakes or would have been done. Bombing down off a mtn ridge on fire roads of muddy/washboard switchbacks in misty fog? Hydro rules for certain. 1 finger control from the drops. I had to try the 105 group san as just seemed to me to be a really solid option nowadays. The 105 RD is solid/spot on. The FD ? Some weird plasticy thing in the cage that is already trashed. 2+ hours today and still not finished cleaning. Dang…

  3. @DerHoggz

    Looking for an aggressive geometry race frame under $1000, suggestions?

    We built up a sweet race ride for my daughter using a Specialized Allez alloy smartweld frame set. Came w/carbon fork. You can’t go wrong with Cannondale’s alloy CAAD10. I really dig mine for racing. Speshy bikes to me seem to be set up with a little longer effective top tubes than other bikes of “same” size. For ex I can fit on a med Tarmac and a large CAAD works fine. Maybe that makes it a little more aggressive if stretched out and low is what you’re going for.

  4. @Tugman

    That was tricky! I saw the box and expected one thing and got another. Very nice looking bike.

    @wilburrox

    @DerHoggz

    Im a pretty big fan of Cdale road bikes. And Im a big fan of the CAAD line. If I could I would totally get one to compliment my SuperSix. BTW, its consistently rated one of the top aluminum bike on the market right now.

  5. @DerHoggz

    Looking for an aggressive geometry race frame under $1000, suggestions?

    If you’re over in Europe, you can’t beat the Canyon Ultimate AL for value. The same geometry as their ProTour race bike, just with an extra ~250g on the frame. Might as well get a groupset on it while you’re at it, it’s basically free for the price they’re charging.

    Tons of options for a frame-only at this price, though. Let me know what you settled on, I may have wrecked mine too this weekend at a race…

  6. @DerHoggz

    I’ll echo the others.  You can’t beat modern Al for the price point, especially on the 2nd-hand market.  Cannondale, Focus, and Specialized (if you’ve forgiven their douche-like moves against Cafe Roubaix) are worthwhile considerations.

    If you happen to be in the US and ride a 60cm frame, I’ve got a CAAD10 for sale after upgrading to a Cervelo R3.

  7. @RedRanger

    This site and the folks posting here intro me to more cool stuff… I’d not heard of HiFi wheels before. I like idea of setting up an inexpensive tubular alloy disc rim for the CX bike. Cheers

  8. @cognition

    @DerHoggz

    I’ll echo the others.  You can’t beat modern Al for the price point, especially on the 2nd-hand market.  Cannondale, Focus, and Specialized (if you’ve forgiven their douche-like moves against Café Roubaix) are worthwhile considerations.

    If you happen to be in the US and ride a 60cm frame, I’ve got a CAAD10 for sale after upgrading to a Cervelo R3.

    I’ve got a Felt F75 and it’s awesome. Looks the business, too.

  9. I’m baaaaack…
    Careful readers may remember when I posted a pic of my new Pinarello back in January. The bike was the result of months of planning and design, and built to perfection by Cyclepath in Portland Oregon.
    Right off the bat I noticed a problem with the disc clearance around the fork leg. There was also an issue with the clearance around the rear derailleur which made contact with the chain stay. So after a couple of months of working with the shop (who were wonderful) and Pinarello (who were…not) we finally got the issues sorted out, the frame was replaced, and at last I got my baby back. I’m pleased to report that the bike is perfect.
    To celebrate, I flogged the bike on a short mud ride last night, just to make sure all was right.
    So happy to have this done at last…

  10. Chrissy – glad you got that sorted out. I feel completely unsettled when any one of my bikes it out of commission. What bar tape – just fizik microtex or other?

  11. I started purchasing items for this build during the early winter.  The build is nearly complete.  2015 Ridley Helium SL.  I have yet to ride it.  My current number 1 will be angry at me when it becomes my daily training bike and doesn’t get to race any longer.  Well maybe some Crits and Gran Fondos, it at least deserves those.

  12. @ChrissyOne

    A muddy Pinarello. I like it. Is that kinda like taking a Ferrari off-road? Garage doors make for easy backdrops don’t they? Not always particularly interesting but certainly easy. I was gonna snap a photo of my bike in front of the garage door the other day and I thought, well dang, I can come up w/better backdrop. But you did manage to make a bike against a garage door look classy. That’s a good looking bike. Those mech/hydro levers are something else hey? I ran them on my bike (posted above) last w/e for first time and was not 100% as comfortable with them as I am with the good ol’ good ol’ Shimano levers. And they are HEAVY. Love the brakes, not yet sold on the levers. I dig that Pinarello. Cheers.

  13. @Sparty

    I started purchasing items for this build during the early winter.  The build is nearly complete.  2015 Ridley Helium SL.  I have yet to ride it.  My current number 1 will be angry at me when it becomes my daily training bike and doesn’t get to race any longer.  Well maybe some Crits and Gran Fondos, it at least deserves those.

    I think that bikes are the most international of branded products. A super cool Ridley from a Belgian company. American ENVE and SRAM. Italian saddle (Arione’s make me sore just looking at them but I know many folks love ’em). French Mavic wheel set (?). Any chance these are German Conti’s ? There might be a few countries that aren’t involved in the bicycle business. And if we were to start listing them they’re probably all somewhat dismal places.

  14. I’ve got a question for the group: I bought my first nice road bike (Felt Z85) about 6 months ago and have come to learn that the frame’s a size too big for me. It’s workable, but slamming the stem isn’t going to happen. I’m saving up to buy #2 this year (a CAADX to be a Rule #9 bike) and buying two bikes isn’t financially possible. I’m thinking of going one season on a slightly too-big frame (54cm, I’m 5’6″), buying the Nine bike late summer/early fall, riding that in the ‘off’ season while saving for a new #1. Then come spring, sell the big one and get an appropriately sized one that might even be a bit of an upgrade.

    But I’m curious, how would you approach this situation?

  15. @SamV

    What does “too big” mean?

    You have a few spacers, your stem isn’t slammed and your bike is a tiny bit heavier… apart from that, is it really a problem?

    Do children point and laugh as you ride by?

    Have you been invited to take part in a tall bike parade?

    The only reason I could think for changing is that it is causing you pain and discomfort because you can’t adjust the geometry enough. In which case forget the #2 bike and sort out your main ride.

    But if you are thinking about buying a rain bike and waiting a year to make a change then I assume that isn’t the case.

    I any case, a winter bike is nice but not essential – thousands of people live without them. If you are desperate to have one, get a cheap fixie.

  16. @SamV

    First, If you are 5′ 6″ and are riding a 54 frame you may find that using a non laid back seat post and or shorter stem will make a “too long” top tube almost disappear.  Second, slamming your stem will actually be easier on your body because you will have less drop between your saddle height and handlebar height (stack vs. reach).  You should not require a single spacer and still be able to ride comfortably.

    Take a picture and post it if you can.  I used to do bike fitting and if you want to PM me I can maybe give you some ideas.

  17. @ChrisO

    There are some very mean children around here!

    It’s moreso a lack of flexibility on the bike’s part. Like I said, it’s workable. But I have to have the seat as far forward as it can go and a couple spacers. The aesthetics don’t really bother me, but I like to tweak. You know how it can be, the minutest of things can make a difference. At this point it’s not uncomfortable or painful, but it doesn’t feel settled (I guess would be the word I would use). So it’s a middle ground. The answer isn’t obvious to me, which is why I’m asking for opinions. And I appreciate your input.

    A winter bike has certainly felt essential this year. The fixie’s an interesting idea, and it’s on my list, but I live in an area with a lot of great climbing that I’d like to keep accessible during the snowy winters we get in the NE US. With the amount of ice and snow, disc brakes offer some peace of mind.

  18. @SamV

    I’d suggest going for a bike fit before drawing any firm conclusions about whether your bike is too big. I was thinking that I’d go a size down if I got a new bike or frame but a few tweaks here and there seem to have stopped me stretching for the hoods. (It’s early days having only just had the fitting and not tested it out over a couple of hours on the bike but it feels good.)

    It’s not just about the distances to the contact points but also weight distribution and core strength.

  19. @Daccordi Rider

    Thought I’d post a picture of our tandem. Fatto a Mano in Toscana they are a really good tandem, made to measure and custom painted if you want. If  anyone hankers after a tandem and needs Italian these are the way to go.  Granted the stoker position takes a bit of getting used to in this configuration, the more fussy types may chose to fit a seat I suppose.

    This bike was made for the Mrs Daccordi and the fact that she is a bit vertically challenged accounts for the slopey top tube look. Those built for normal sized pilots have a standard top tube set up. Beautifully handling bike as all Italian bikes are. Just for the record I don’t get on the back, that could see us in divorce court, that’s where the blind people we ride with go. This bike won the Australian Nation Tandem Road Race on its maiden voyage with 5 time Paralympic gold medalist Keiran Modra on the back, pretty good start to its life!

    That looks awesome. There’s a tandem on the cards for us but the geometry with be a bit more traditional. Mrs Chris tells me that it’s a bit frightening at the back until you get used to it and having seen her driving I’ve not intention of finding out.

  20. @Sparty

    I had considered a shorter stem. It’s currently 90mm, so not terribly long to begin with, but I know shorter ones are out there. I have noticed that the lower I have the stem, the more time I’m on the drops (more or less because the hoods are out of reach). It hadn’t occurred to me that a different type of seatpost existed. Mine is indeed set back a bit.

    @Chris

    I’ve definitely been thinking a lot about a bike fit. I’ll see what the shops in my area have to offer.

    Core strength and flexibility are not my greatest disciplines, but I’ve been trying to improve.

    Thanks a lot to you both!

  21. @unversio

    @RedRanger

    Flip that tyre quick! Before @Oli tells you that it is upside down

    You’ve got the wrong address, I’m not that guy! I might be OCD with my own bike details but I’m not down with hassling folk about theirs.

    (Plus I didn’t even notice…)

  22. @Chris

    @RedRanger

    Love it. A set of Hollowgram cranks and it would be perfect.

    Oh yes indeed I agree. And I’d also love nothing more than Hollowgrams – the Si SL2 – on my CAAD but dang… is mucho dinero. As in Mucho mucho. As is, w/FSA cranks and rings I have now, the Di2 I have shifts flawlessly and these babies, as gorgeous as they are, would not provide more performance. But sure would look fabulous.

  23. @wilburrox

    If my wallet were only bottomless. As it is I got a second job at a bike shop and pretty much feel the need to take advantage and buy a new MTB.

  24. Is it possible to get 52/36 10 speed chainsets or even replacement chainrings of that size? I’m contemplating upgrading from my compact.

  25. @SamV

    I’ve got a question for the group: I bought my first nice road bike (Felt Z85) about 6 months ago and have come to learn that the frame’s a size too big for me. It’s workable, but slamming the stem isn’t going to happen. I’m saving up to buy #2 this year (a CAADX to be a Rule #9 bike) and buying two bikes isn’t financially possible. I’m thinking of going one season on a slightly too-big frame (54cm, I’m 5’6″), buying the Nine bike late summer/early fall, riding that in the ‘off’ season while saving for a new #1. Then come spring, sell the big one and get an appropriately sized one that might even be a bit of an upgrade.

    But I’m curious, how would you approach this situation?

    @SamV  I’m 5’6″ and tend to ride a 54cm – though the concept of 54cm does vary a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer.  So I’d suggest you do not make the assumption it is too big without getting a bike fit.  I do tend to use a seatpost with minimal lay back but I don’t have to use a short stem and have 100mm or 90mm depending on the individual bike top tube measurement.

    You say it is your first nice bike so I’d also ask what have you ridden previously and maybe it is just a matter of getting used to nice bikes!  One thing to bear in mind is that if you have stem spacers in the 54 then typically if you go down to a smaller frame you will tend to have a greater seat to stem drop with a smaller frame (depending on make/model).  So actually you are more likely to be able to slam the stem on a bigger frame than a smaller one.

    A qualified bike fit would be the way to go.  Personally while I could go down a size when I have tried a smaller frame I do feel a bit tucked up and the bike fits I have had come out at a 53/54 equivalent depending on make and how their stock sizes pan out.

  26. @RobSandy

    Is it possible to get 52/36 10 speed chainsets or even replacement chainrings of that size? I’m contemplating upgrading from my compact.

    I think you will find that until 2015 Campag you could not interchange compact and full chainrings without changing the cranks as the spiders were not compatible.  A bit nuts really.  So you may find that depending on what chainset you have it may not be possible to fit a 52 on the spider.  If you can then it should be possible for the front mech to handle the jump but again might depend on which mech you have…………..

  27. @Teocalli

    I’ve got to head to my closest LBS tomorrow, so I’ll be asking about fitting services and and seatposts. Looking at it right now, it looks like decreasing the offset could be the biggest difference maker.

    My previous rides were a 50cm 1980s Bianchi Campione with the original components that I acquired 3rd or 4th hand, and then a 54cm 1980s Takara that had been rebuilt with new Suntour bits.

  28. @Teocalli

    @RobSandy

    Is it possible to get 52/36 10 speed chainsets or even replacement chainrings of that size? I’m contemplating upgrading from my compact.

    I think you will find that until 2015 Campag you could not interchange compact and full chainrings without changing the cranks as the spiders were not compatible.  A bit nuts really.  So you may find that depending on what chainset you have it may not be possible to fit a 52 on the spider.  If you can then it should be possible for the front mech to handle the jump but again might depend on which mech you have…………..

    …and I can’t get a full 10 speed crankset with 52/36 rings either. I could get 52/39 or 53/39 I think. But then my knees would fall off.

    And that’s without trying to find out if my front mech would still work or if that would need replacing too. Boo hoo I want a 52×11 not a 50×11.

  29. @RobSandy

    Your only option might be to run an 11sp Chainset to get a spider small enough to run a 36 inner others may offer a better opinion of how rattly that would be with a 10Sp chain.

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