The Seduction of Symbols
There was a time when bicycles were lovingly handmade by artisans who themselves loved the sport more than those for whom they built the machines. Lugs were filed to become Luggs; chain and seat stays were beautifully chromed for durability despite the grams it added to the frame’s final weight; spokes were chosen for their purpose and laced to hubs and rims in a pattern that suited the specific purpose the wheel was intended to serve. Throughout the process – from building the frame to manufacturing of the components – extra care was taken to make every element of the bicycle beautiful; these bicycles, when you are in their presence, radiate La Vie Velominatus.
As was customary at the time, components would be pantographed and frames repainted and rebranded, leaving behind little evidence of their origin. But hidden in the components and frames were symbols that the manufacturers stamped into their wares to preserve their identity; Colnago their Fiore, Cinelli their C, and Campa their Shield. These symbols have come to hold great meaning within the sport and we of a certain ilk scour the photos of our heroes’ bikes for evidence of their existence.
For a variety of reasons including cost, proprietary tube-shapes, and repeatability of production, these practices have largely died away in mainstream bicycle manufacturing; in fact, nearly every element in the art of bicycle building that requires attention and skill is slowing being eliminated from the craft. Ahead-set stems have replaced the need for a carefully adjusted headset and stem, sealed-bearing bottom brackets and hubs have eliminated the subtle touch required to hold a race in place with one hand while tightening the assembly with the other. By and large, the machines and riders are stronger than the terrain they race over, leaving little practical need for the attention to detail and customization that once came as a matter of course.
There is, however, one magical week of racing where the terrain is still stronger than the riders: the cobbled classics of de Ronde van Vlaanderen and Paris-Roubaix. This is the one week during which the Pros still require highly customized machines and we, as fans, can scour the photos of our heroes’ kit, looking for the symbols tucked away in the components to discern their origins. One such symbol is the brass badge affixed to the valve-hole on Ambrosio rims.
These rims are chosen by the Specialists for their strength on the stones regardless of what wheel sponsorship obligations might exist within the team. Their mystique is further deepened for those of us living in the States because they aren’t available here. It follows, then, that the Golden Ticket, as I call it, is something I’ve coveted for as long as I can remember (which, admittedly, isn’t very long and, upsettingly, keeps getting less long) but have never had a good enough reason to justify procuring from Europe. But Keepers Tour, Cobbled Classics 2012 provided the perfect justification to go about finding a set and I wasted no time in doing so. Upon arrival, the rims spent the better part of two weeks sitting in my living room or next to my bed, patiently waiting for me to pick them up and rub my thumb over the badge, just to reassure myself they were still there.
Not long after the rims arrived, I excitedly loaded a picture of Boonen in the 2010 Ronde and turned the laptop to show my VMH.
Frank: Hey, what do you see.
VMH: Boonen. Goddamn, he’s a stud. Don’t let me too close to him; I can’t be responsible for my actions.
Frank: What about his wheels.
VMH: What?
Frank: Don’t you see? He’s got my rims.
VMH: You can’t possibly know that.
Frank: Openly shows his exasperation by groaning audibly and rolling his eyes. Yes, I do. Check it. You can see the Golden Ticket on his back wheel. Its obvious as shit. What’s wrong with you?
VMH: Sighs, pours another glass of wine. Exits stage left. Hopefully not for good.
*Coincidentally, on the same day that this article was being written, Inrng published a similar (better) article on a related subject of hand-built wheels. Well worth the read: The Dying Art of Wheelbuilding
Hoist by your own pedant’s petard, perhaps?
@Oli
If we’re going all pedanty, it’s “hoist with [your] own petar[d]”, as Shakespeare coined the phrase.
ie, Shakespeare wrote in Hamlet “…hoist with his own petar;”.
But only if we’re being pedants.
@Oli
Maybe but if we had a goddam edit button I would have changed it before anyone even saw.
Anyway Shultz/Klink wasn’t pedantry, just correcting a fact.
Like getting that Eddy van Impe mixed up with Lucien Gaul.
All the talk in this article has me pondering bike kit for cobbles. I think ill throw a chain catcher on but that’s about it.
@Marko
Marko just stay on a big ring all the time and you don’t need one.
@TommyTubolare
True enough but I’m not sure I’ll be able to Big Ring it up the Koppenberg.
@Blah
The saying has transcended Shakespeare, and I don’t think he would have slipped pedantry in there anyway.
My point was that there seems to be a LOT of correcting going on around here, most of which is done in posts containing their own errors. Let those without sin cast the first stone, and all that.
It goes without saying that I’m certainly not immune to pointing out the occasional mistake myself, but the pedantry just seems to be hitting a level of pointless oneupmanship lately that seems quite unnecessary.
I remember the debate about adding an edit function, and the upshot was that not having one meant people were more likely to consider what they wrote in their posts as they wouldn’t be able to change them afterwards. The price of setting the bar high (when it comes to serious matters) was typos and the like. Trash talk, whatever, no one cares aboutand errors there would often go uncorrected. We’re able to self edit what we read: and if some (like me) are posting from work, when we’re on a break or meant to be doing something else, our posts are likely to contain errors. Pedantry is a wonderful thing when used properly.
@TommyTubolare
Okay, my tubs just came in from Ribble. Two 24’s and two 27’s. Guess it is time to walk-the-talk and get those CX tubs off the rims and clean them up and stretch the new tubs for a day or two and then mount those puppies! Going to mount the 24’s first and run those until getting close to my P-R ride then switch over to the 27’s. Too cool!
@Nate
Hey, thanks for the heads up! I think my 2007 Merckx should be okay but I will not use them for the ’92 Merckx. Good to know! Truly appreciate it.
@Buck Rogers
Which tires did you select? I am running 23 Vittorias and I am thinking of going for something a bit wider as my daily training tires- looking for some recommendations.
@Anjin-san
I bought four Vittoria Pave’ Evo CG’s. Two 24’s and two 27’s. I am going to run the 24’s for training and the 27’s for P-R.
@TommyTubolare
Okay, old CX. Tubs are off the rims. They are Champion Fango 32’s. The kicker is that there was no tape used. He glued them directly to the rim. Is this okay to do with the road Pave’s in your opinion? Also, it is going to be a royal Pain in the Ass to get all the old glue off the rims!
@Buck Rogers
How you doing?
Glad you got them already.I’d probably mount 27’s straight away but on the other hand having fun with a glue twice will be a good practice for you.
@TommyTubolare
It’s not a problem.I never used any tape even for CX tubs.Extra thin layer on a rim and on a tire would be efficient enough.
For Paves for PR only I’d do the same.Extra thin layer on a rim and on a tire will do.For normal road use it’s an overkill.
In terms of an old glue you have to kind of judge it yourself.See what’s the condition of it.Normally if there’s a lot of hard chunky pieces they come off easily when using plastic tyre lever.Just scrape them and they will come loose.Later if the old glue layers are thick and uneven use thinner,white spirit or acetone and a cloth to remove the residue bit by bit.Just dip the cloth in acetone and rub it hard into the rims and you will see it begins to loosen up.It takes patience.
If the glue still looks good you don’t have to remove everything.The old glue will be reactivated once you apply new thin coat.If you feel like you want to do it from the scratch and you have time and patience clean the rims completely and begin as you would do with brand new wheelset.It would definitely make you feel as if you bought brand new wheelset when you see those rims cleaned up.
@TommyTubolare
@TommyTubolare
Awesome! Okay, I will go with the 27’s straight away and run thosemand I will do an extra thin layer on the rim and the tires. Have to get some thinner or acetone and some glue now. Killing myself that I did not already get it!
@Buck Rogers
At the moment it looks like I have been playing with glue too much as I just replied to myself.Shit!
The reason I think you should mount 27’s right away is that it would be kind of waste to take 24’s off after a good gluing job if they are not punctured just to mount 27’s for the tour.After mounting 27’s you can go for few rides here and there to get used to them so it’s not like you will wear them out.If any problem occurs you still have enough time to get a new tire glued ready for the tour.
Feel free to get my email from Frank and drop me a message if you have any doubts along the way.
@TommyTubolare
I have found that using a dremel tool with a plastic brush attachment works really well to get the old dried glue off… really fast and safe enough to use on carbon rims.
@Buck Rogers
Thank you. I have been running the Corsa EVO CX in 23 and have been very impressed with puncture resistance and durability. I now have one set with nearly 1,500km without a problem… I just jinxed tomorrow’s ride. That said, I am looking for something a bit wider for some of the bumpy and occasionally gravel roads we have around here. I’ll give the Pave’s a try in 24.
It’s been a dry winter here — generally can’t complain — but got the first Rule IX ride on the Nemesi yesterday and on top of the many other wonderful things to say about them, there is almost no loss of braking performance in the wet.
How do we feel about sealant on tubbies?
@frank
Second-hand view point here but my sensei/coach had this to say when we were discussing the merits of tubs:
I’ve used Tufo sealant in Tufo tubs and never punctured … although I might have done and not realised!!! ;-)
Tufo sealant DOESN’T work in anything other than Tufo tubs though (which aren’t repairable other than with the sealant). I’ve not tried other makes of sealant in other makes of tub but I’ve no reason to doubt it won’t work ok.
For what it’s worth I have had great success with Stan’s when Mtn Biking. On some big ol’ 2.4″ tires with tubes I have had “would be flats” that have sealed almost instantly with just the loss of a little pressure.
I don’t know if your tubbies have removable valve corse but if they do and you can get hold of a syringe (VMH is an ER nurse) it makes putting the sealant in very easy.
@frank
I read up on the topic and put a bit of Caffelatex in mine as by far the most common flat I have is from little bits of glass or wire, which in theory the sealant should deal well with, certainly enough to get me home. Caffelatex seems to get the best reviews.
Of course on Saturday I rode over some fender bender debris, putting a hole in my rear tire the diameter of a pencil, well beyond sealant. First time I’ve had such a puncture on any kind of tire. I was almost home and just Van Summeren’d it the rest of the way. I had been riding without a backup tire as most of my routes would allow me to JVS back to public transport in the event something like this happened far out on a ride but I’m rethinking that and looking at adopting the classic spare under the saddle with toestrap approach.
@frank
I know of several people who have used 10-20ml Stan’s solution and rate it for all but the biggest holes. The only downside is that over time it can dry and/or coagulate causing a lump of rubbery stuff to noticeably and audibly roll around inside the tyre – in a clincher the lumps can easily be removed, but that’s a lot trickier with a tub.
@frank
I used Stan’s in my CX tubs with great results. NOT a lot, but technique matters. Get it in the tire. Spin said tire. Remove tire from bike and flip it parallel to the ground and slowly rotate and shake. Flip over and repeat. Getting the gunk in all the nooks and crannies is what seals it tight. All those years of mountain biking are finally paying off…
@Oli
Thanks Oli (and @Chris, @paolo, @Nate) – that’s more what I’m after. I’ve heard it works, but what are the drawbacks. Based on the feedback, I’m loathe to put it in my FMB’s, though I might not care too much for training tires where the security outweighs the downside of the rattlerattlerattle.
@frank
Weight primarily I reckon, but it’s probably all of about 20gr/tire.
I think in my research I read that the Caffelatex doesn’t coagulate like the Stan’s but I can’t be sure nor can I be bothered to replicate the work. You could probably found what I found with a bit of Google-age. Other issues — if you have a big puncture (like I had this weekend) you might have to clean up some sealant residue on your frame. Another tip is to position the valve stems correctly when inflating — at about 4 o clock, to let any sealant drain out of the stem before you pump, to prevent leaks/sprays of sealant.
@Anjin-san
Great info – thanks!
And don’t let your latex tires with sealant go flat and leave them sitting. The sealant will stick to itself and tear the latex tube from the inside.
@frank
I agree with Nate and the only sealant you’d want to use in your tubs is Effetto Mariposa Caffelatex.
The best way to repair the tubular without compromising on riding qualities is of course an old needle and thread method however since new tubulars are getting harder and harder to repair this way sometimes you’d have to use sealant.
I did many tests and tries on my old tubs I kept over the years and despite the Caffelatex Espresso instructions saying that it will fix punctures up to 1mm I had luck repairing bigger cuts of 3mm.All you have to do is use it properly.
If lets say you have a flat on a road and want to use Espresso Caffelatex it’s important to deflate the tire fully,locate the puncture which is usually caused by a small sharp glass,take that small glass out of the tire and while injecting the caffelatex from the pressurized can hold the cut in the tire with your thumb until you fully empty the espresso cartridge.You will feel the tire is filling up with air and you should continue pressing with your thumb finger until the puncture seals itself.You will have now around 5 bars in your tire.If you don’t cover the puncture with your thumb the sealant will simply spray you and the frame and it might be not enough latex left to seal the puncture fully and then you’re fucked buddy!
If this scenario occurs you need to refer to old school method when sealants were not known or used and take off the punctured tire and replace it with the pre-stretched and pre-glued tube from under your saddle or your jersey pocket.So even if you carry a 1L bottle of sealant ALWAYS carry a spare tube as this liquid shite might not work.
If you want to have more than 5 bars in your tire to pump it up use a mini hand pump rather than cartridge inflator.High inflator pressure might cause just sealed area to burst.
If you don’t want to carry Espresso can on your rides use Caffelatex sealant from the large bottle.Carry it in a small 20ml bottle and use injector and a mini hand pump in case of puncture.
Stans works well and it’s stronger however the tubs just don’t feel the same after injecting 20 ml of it.It may be only 20g however rotating mass in your wheels feels rather more.Most of the time too much sealant gets the wheel out of balance and it spoils the plush ride on a tubular.
Caffelatex in comparing to Stans is ammonia free and behaves different as it’s a foam rather than a liquid.As you spin the wheel caffelatex foams and spreads more evenly preventing from any imbalance.Plus I never noticed blocking the valve when using it and what is very common with other sealants.
Personally I’d only use sealant when my tubes are almost done(30% of lifespan left) and when I’m sure I will not be repairing them with an needle and thread.And injecting sealant as a preventing measure before you even get a puncture is a total waste of a tubular and its qualities.Sorry but only fools do so as you may wear out the tire completely and never get a puncture.
@Minion
Thanks mate.Very good point to remember since all sealants have adhesive properties and if you don’t keep your tires pumped sealant will cause opposite side walls of the inner tube to stick and harden together.When pumping up the tire you will hear a loud whoooshhh and when you hear it don’t look at the valve like a fool pretending and swearing cause you know it ain’t the valve but you with your pump and the air pressure just ripped a huge gash in your inner tube.
That’s a big one to look out for.
@Chris
Thanks Chris.
Tufo sealant works very well with Tufo tires.One important thing to point out is that Tufo tires use butyl inner tubes rather than latex so I wouldn’t use it with latex inner tubes however I think it would still seal it with great effect.
@all
By the way is it just me or Tufos with 30ml of sealants inside them really ride like a garden hose?Anybody got more experience with them?
@TommyTubolare
Wow, super info! Somehting else to add to the jersey pocket.
But, that being said, I have always wondered how does one carry a pre-glued spare? I always just carried a pre-stretched spare with me and would ride home VERY carefully if I flatted (only happened one time to my memory) but how do you fold and keep a pre-glued tub under the seat?
Probably a bloody obvious thing but I am clueless on how to do it!
Thanks!
@Buck Rogers
Hey Buck!
Finally got some photos for you.I carry a spare in my jersey pocket and I fold it just like in a photo below.It’s an easy method and you can fold a tubular really small especially if not pre glued
Back in the days though when carrying a spare under the saddle folding method was a bit different.
Begin with letting the air completely out of the tubie and lay it flat down with inside edges touching each other
Now fold it up to the valve but stop short.It’s easier with a short valve so you can remove valve extender and carry it separate.The pre glued base tape should be pressed against the pre glued base tape leaving the outer tire thread free from glue contact
Now fold under 1/3 of the length from the bottom and one more fold to the top
Now you can secure a folded tubular tight with a toe strap and install it under your saddle.That’s the other side of the folded tube
By the way I used rubber bands to help me make photos and you don’t need them while folding.In both methods the idea is the same to have pre glued part against pre glued part.In case of a new spare tubular base tape against base tape.Also when properly folded the valve should have no stresses on it.Valve should be sheltered by tire folds.
You can place the tube under the saddle so that the logos are visible out and in that respect depending on a manufacturer your folding technique may be adjusted keeping the principles in mind.
@TommyTubolare
Good Lord, that was worth the wait! Not that I minded about that either, though.
I always would worry that the pre-glued portions would become stuck to each other and then not come apart when I needed them. I usually just placed a non glued spare tubby on my seat post with eletrical tape back “in the day”. I will book mark this thread and use this method from now on.
Btw, both wheels cleaned, new Ultrega cassette on, and both tires stretching. Now I just need to take them off, glue them, put them back on and let them dry! Hopefully first ride on sewups in 19 years will be later this week!
@TommyTubolare
Awesome. I was looking all over for something like this recently but your presentation is succint and to the point.
@Nate
Thanks Nate.Glad you found what you were looking for.
@Buck Rogers
Buck it’s easy to fold the tire so no way it will give you trouble.To make photos how to do it it’s actually harder and you have to use rubber bands and the tire doesn’t wanna stay in the right place.
In terms of pre gluing when you do one coat of glue the tire will be dry in no time and once folded the glue reactivate itself once in contact with the glue on the rim.Remember it’s not a strong bond but bond good enough to get you safe home.
If you don’t want to carry pre glued tire you can actually fold it really small.Dedicate one new tube to be your spare only,for example cheaper slick in 21 mm.If not pre glued it will fold beautifully small and will definitely get you home.
On another note my friend dropped off his Corsa Evo 23mm to be repaired but even though I told him several times do not forget to pump up your tires that muppet forgot in December when he left for holidays.Since his bike is hanged by the top tube in the garage the valve extenders balanced the wheel with the valve down where most of the sealant gathered and after pumping up you know what happened-WHOOSH!!!Few photos below.This tire is retired for good now.
@TommyTubolare
What’s your recce on number of glue coats for rims (most sources say 3) and base tape? I ve seen 1-3.
@TommyTubolare
Just finished gluing the front wheel. I used two thin coats on the rim and the base tape, separated by twenty minutes. Used way more glue than I thought I would have to. I only had bought two tubes and I used 1.5 on the front wheel alone.
My biggest question/problem was how do you know that you have it glued on straight? I was trying to match the base tape evenly throughout with rim edge but it never seemed perfect to me. I hope I did not screw it up! Also, do you let them dry with full max pressure or training pressure or lower!
Thanks!!!
@Nate
On new rims 3 THIN coats.Always remember to cover the edges of the rims.Most holding power for tubulars is at the edges.If your brush slips and you end up with a bit of glue on a side of the rim do not worry as you can wipe it off clean later with acetone.
On tubulars 1-2 coats depending on a tire.
On latexed base tape tubs(Vittoria,Veloflex) one coat will do.The coat doesn’t have to be as thin as on the rims but don’t go ape shit either.One solid coat.Just like with the rims glue must completely cover the base tape to the edges.If a bit of glue ends up on the side of the tire just leave it alone.Do not remove it with acetone.Once dry it will be almost invisible and won’t cause any problems.
One thing to remember here is if it’s too much latex or latex is spread uneven on the basetape remove it in sections using a single cut mill file or sand paper.I wouldn’t worry about Veloflex too much but it happens with Vittorias occasionally.But do not remove it completely as over the years I’ve noticed that this latex is there for a reason.It prevents and keeps the solvent in the rim cement from loosening the base tape from the tire casing.
On Continentals with fabric (clothed) base tape I always do 2 THIN coats as the base tape soaks more glue.On some new Contis with black latexed base tape refer to Veloflex/Vittoria method.And stretch those Contis a bit longer at max PSI as they are tight man!
@TommyTubolare
I think I love you! Your advice is always bang on, mate. Top stuff.
@TommyTubolare
Fantastic info. I am also new to tubulars, having just received my set of Hed Stinger 6s this past week. This will help me out a great deal and save the embarrassment of a poorly folded spare.
@Buck Rogers
You probably used too much glue but don’t worry about it.I use acid brush to spread the glue.Find one that fits nice once pressed into the rim.Start at the valve and spread the glue from the middle point between two spoke holes up and down.Like that when you reach each spoke hole there’s only a bit of glue under the brush.That way you will avoid glue entering the valve holes.
Two things always to remember is stretching the tire onto the rim and centering it once on the rim.I like to mount my tire slightly inflated so the tire holds its shape.
In terms of stretching do it evenly on both sides otherwise you will create a radial up and down wobble and it’s hard to correct it later.The most common wobble appears at the valve.
When centering side to side do not follow only the base tape but the tire thread as well.Vittorias thread is pretty straight however the base tape might be off center in places.We’re talking 1-3 mm here and there.You want to make sure the thread makes a straight line as you spin the wheel.
@Oli
Thanks Oli! As always I really appreciate your comments.
@roger
Thanks a lot.Good decision mate.Once on tubs riding your bicycle will feel special again.
@Buck Rogers
First of all here: ‘That way you will avoid glue entering the valve holes’ in my previous post I meant spoke holes.You don’t want the glue there.Couldn’t edit,sorry mate.
In terms of pressure when curing your glued tires max. is not needed.I think 110-120 PSI will be plenty.
While on the subject @TommyTubolare, any wheel stands you can recommend for the whole process? Something minimal, as I live in the city and don’t have the luxury of a full garage.
@TommyTubolare
Also, for anyone that is as much of a dumbass as me, make sure that you have the tread going in the correct direction when you glue on the tire on your rear wheel. I realized after getting the rear tire all glued on an hour ago that I had glued it on in the wrong direction. Fortunately, I also had a bit of an up-and-down radial wobble so I pulled the tire back off and am now waiting to remount it in the correct direction and with, hopefully, equal radial stretch!
Front wheel was glued yesterday and looks perfect, if I do say so myself! Hopefully the rear one will turn out as well tonight before I am done!
@TommyTubolare
All done and both drying, the front since yesterday, the rear as of about 10 minutes ago. One last observation/question: There seems to be a bit of a rise at the valve stem region on each tire/wheel radially when I spin them. I tried to restretch and reglue the rear one but it did not go away. Maybe I am just imagining it but is this at all usual? If it is real, will it even out with riding? I tried putting my weight on the tire all the way around after gluing to try to even everyhting out but it did not help with that region.
Once again, thanks again oh holy tubular guru!!!
@TommyTubolare, @Oli
Great info, especially with the Oli endorsement! Thanks gents.