The Seduction of Symbols

Two golden tickets to Hell

There was a time when bicycles were lovingly handmade by artisans who themselves loved the sport more than those for whom they built the machines. Lugs were filed to become Luggs; chain and seat stays were beautifully chromed for durability despite the grams it added to the frame’s final weight; spokes were chosen for their purpose and laced to hubs and rims in a pattern that suited the specific purpose the wheel was intended to serve. Throughout the process – from building the frame to manufacturing of the components – extra care was taken to make every element of the bicycle beautiful; these bicycles, when you are in their presence, radiate La Vie Velominatus.

As was customary at the time, components would be pantographed and frames repainted and rebranded, leaving behind little evidence of their origin. But hidden in the components and frames were symbols that the manufacturers stamped into their wares to preserve their identity; Colnago their Fiore, Cinelli their C, and Campa their Shield. These symbols have come to hold great meaning within the sport and we of a certain ilk scour the photos of our heroes’ bikes for evidence of their existence.

For a variety of reasons including cost, proprietary tube-shapes, and repeatability of production, these practices have largely died away in mainstream bicycle manufacturing; in fact, nearly every element in the art of bicycle building that requires attention and skill is slowing being eliminated from the craft. Ahead-set stems have replaced the need for a carefully adjusted headset and stem, sealed-bearing bottom brackets and hubs have eliminated the subtle touch required to hold a race in place with one hand while tightening the assembly with the other. By and large, the machines and riders are stronger than the terrain they race over, leaving little practical need for the attention to detail and customization that once came as a matter of course.

There is, however, one magical week of racing where the terrain is still stronger than the riders: the cobbled classics of de Ronde van Vlaanderen and Paris-Roubaix. This is the one week during which the Pros still require highly customized machines and we, as fans, can scour the photos of our heroes’ kit, looking for the symbols tucked away in the components to discern their origins. One such symbol is the brass badge affixed to the valve-hole on Ambrosio rims.

These rims are chosen by the Specialists for their strength on the stones regardless of what wheel sponsorship obligations might exist within the team. Their mystique is further deepened for those of us living in the States because they aren’t available here. It follows, then, that the Golden Ticket, as I call it, is something I’ve coveted for as long as I can remember (which, admittedly, isn’t very long and, upsettingly, keeps getting less long) but have never had a good enough reason to justify procuring from Europe. But Keepers Tour, Cobbled Classics 2012 provided the perfect justification to go about finding a set and I wasted no time in doing so. Upon arrival, the rims spent the better part of two weeks sitting in my living room or next to my bed, patiently waiting for me to pick them up and rub my thumb over the badge, just to reassure myself they were still there.

Not long after the rims arrived, I excitedly loaded a picture of Boonen in the 2010 Ronde and turned the laptop to show my VMH.

Frank: Hey, what do you see.

VMH: Boonen. Goddamn, he’s a stud. Don’t let me too close to him; I can’t be responsible for my actions.

Frank: What about his wheels.

VMH: What?

Frank: Don’t you see? He’s got my rims.

VMH: You can’t possibly know that.

Frank: Openly shows his exasperation by groaning audibly and rolling his eyes. Yes, I do. Check it. You can see the Golden Ticket on his back wheel. Its obvious as shit. What’s wrong with you?

VMH: Sighs, pours another glass of wine. Exits stage left. Hopefully not for good.

*Coincidentally, on the same day that this article was being written, Inrng published a similar (better) article on a related subject of hand-built wheels. Well worth the read: The Dying Art of Wheelbuilding

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486 Replies to “The Seduction of Symbols”

  1. @Buck Rogers
    First of all sorry to hear about your direction issues.It happens so don’t worry and move on.To avoid it study the tire a bit before gluing.A bit of foreplay can do no harm,you know it Buck.
    Seriously though in case of Vittorias there’s a little arrow showing the rotation direction.You can actually see it on one photo on my folding tubular post.That aside Vittoria label is on one side of the tire only,the drive side of the bike opposite the valve hole so watch for that.

    A slight wobble around the valve won’t be a problem.Once the tire is pumped and while actually riding you won’t feel it so don’t sweat it too much.Back in the days I used to ride tubes from Czechoslovakia and USSR and they had lots of bubbles and imperfections all over the place and they were pain in da ass to repair.However above 150 PSI all manufacturing defects disappeared and damn they were rock hard and super fast.Don’t ask me about the comfort though but those days that was the last thing I cared about.

    In terms of stretching equally it is something that comes when you practice a lot so on a daily basis even shop/lbs mechanic do not get to do it.Despite the qualities not many ride tubies today and people who do look after the gluing themselves.Only PRO mechanics know it exactly cause they go through lots of wheelsets.

    To get the right stretch next time use an old method I remember from the past.Map your tire and rim so to speak.Stretch the tire without glue on a rim and pump it up max and leave it sit for 24.After you get back to it pump it up to 10-20 PSI align it properly as you would do exactly if the glue was there.Once you’re happy with alignment pump it up again to your typical riding pressure.Spin the wheel and check alignment again,adjust if needed and also look for any imperfections on a tire or a base tape and memorize them.Basically determine how perfect the tire is before the glue is applied.
    Once this is done use a soft ball pen,marker or felt-tipped pen and mark the tubular on both sides at the following positions:opposite the valve,three o’clock and nine o’clock.Now proceed to mark the rim in the exactly same places relative to the tire marks.Now when stretching you will know exactly how far you should go on each side as you will simply align the marked areas.When centering you will also see exactly how far each mark on the tubular is exposed on both sides of the rim.To learn I used to do the marks like that on a tire on every second spoke and believe me each time the tubular was aligned to perfection.Over some time you just go with your feeling.

  2. @TommyTubolare
    Woah, impressive info there! Man, where do I send the fees that I owe you for all of this amazing advice!

    I tend to be a bit OCD in things, pays off during microsurgery but can sometimes bite me in the ass in real life!

    Today, everything looks great after switching the direction of the tread and restretching it and then regluing. I think it will be perfect.

    Both are now glued and I should ride on them tomorrow for the first time. Really cannot wait.

    Thanks again for helping me out with my perfection (imperfection) neuroses! I cannot imagine anyone every being able to explain and help as much as you have so easily and straight forward with such great advice. Definitely saved this thread to my “favorites”!

  3. @roger
    If you are planning to build your own wheels in the future investing in Park Tool TS-2.2 would be a good idea.You might find Park Tool TS-2 on sale somewhere I’m sure as they have newer 2.2 model now.
    If you are really on a budget they also have TS-8 for home mechanic.
    Tacx T3175 truing stand could be your other option or Spin Doctor stand.

    If you’re not into truing/building wheels get a bike repair stand and you can clean your bike easier and glue your tubs without any problems.

  4. Looking at some nemeses on ebay at the moment, anyone know if ’94 8 speed Dura-ace hubs cab be converted to 10 speed? Suspect not but worth asking, they’re cheap.

  5. @Oli

    @TommyTubolareI think I love you! Your advice is always bang on, mate. Top stuff.

    New term for lexicon:
    Velomance – an attraction to a fellow velominati’s bike skills that is so strong, it’s bordering on love.

  6. I won at ebay, allegedly low mileage Nemesis rims with Dura-ace hubs are hopefully en-route. Now to get some tyres for them. Saw some relatively cheap Vittoria Pave EVO CG which should be perfect for the Keepers’ Tour.

    The wheels are radially laced on the front and radial/crossed on the rear. Am I right in saying that’s not as strong as completely crossed. At about 87kg (or there about’s depending on my schizophrenic weighing scales) is re-lacing worth thinking about?

    @TommyTubolare
    There’s some great looking advice there, I’ll have to get my head around it before getting the glue out.

  7. @Chris
    WHoah – that is proper V activity – I have just got a set of Vittoria Open Pave Clinchers – not quite as true to the religion, but they have a green stripe down the middle to go with my avatar

  8. @Bianchi Denti

    @Oli

    @TommyTubolareI think I love you! Your advice is always bang on, mate. Top stuff.

    New term for lexicon:
    Velomance – an attraction to a fellow velominati’s bike skills that is so strong, it’s bordering on love.

    Velomance – Not that there’s anything wrong with that!
    Good one!

  9. @Dr C
    Now you’ll just have to win your national championships to get the matching jersey (although if you’ve nothing to do in the summer there is another green jersey to go for!)

  10. @Chris
    Ah, I can picture it – @Fronk, @Brett, @Gianni, @Oli, @Chris, @ChrisO, @Grilla, @Marko etc etc (replace as required, can’t name all 5000 of ya!), pulling in a long V-train up the Champs Elysees, with me in my Witte Kitte for leading young rider tucked in waiting to strike……stuff of dreams

  11. @Dr C

    @Chris
    young rider… …stuff of dreams

    I said green not white! I was thinking slightly tubby bloke with questionable climbing skills from one of those islands in the puddle to west of Liverpool!

    Would be quite awesome to get a properly attired v-train going at full gas. Maybe into the Roubaix Velodrome.

    Was the Witte Kitte a good idea? It might never be the same again if it’s a muddy day on the 31st!

  12. @Chris

    Looking at some nemeses on ebay at the moment, anyone know if ’94 8 speed Dura-ace hubs cab be converted to 10 speed? Suspect not but worth asking, they’re cheap.

    @Oli

    @Chris
    Eight speed freehubs are fine with ten speed cassettes.

    Important distinction for those painting with a broad brush: Shimano eight speed free hubs are fine with 10 speed cassettes. With Campa, they changed the spline pattern between 8 and 9 speed and they are not compatible.

  13. @frank
    Whew, saw the first bit of that in the sidebar and thought “Bugger, now is not the time to find out that @Oli is fallible!”

    It wouldn’t have been velomance but velocide!

  14. Thanks for the clarification there, Frank. I did think it was obvious we were talking about Shimano, as I don’t think Campag do a Dura-Ace model, but people can be pretty freaking dumb so one can never be too careful I suppose.

  15. @TommyTubolare

    @Buck Rogers
    Hey Buck!
    Finally got some photos for you.I carry a spare in my jersey pocket and I fold it just like in a photo below.It’s an easy method and you can fold a tubular really small especially if not pre glued

    Back in the days though when carrying a spare under the saddle folding method was a bit different.
    Begin with letting the air completely out of the tubie and lay it flat down with inside edges touching each other

    Now fold it up to the valve but stop short.It’s easier with a short valve so you can remove valve extender and carry it separate.The pre glued base tape should be pressed against the pre glued base tape leaving the outer tire thread free from glue contact

    Now fold under 1/3 of the length from the bottom and one more fold to the top

    Now you can secure a folded tubular tight with a toe strap and install it under your saddle.That’s the other side of the folded tube

    By the way I used rubber bands to help me make photos and you don’t need them while folding.In both methods the idea is the same to have pre glued part against pre glued part.In case of a new spare tubular base tape against base tape.Also when properly folded the valve should have no stresses on it.Valve should be sheltered by tire folds.
    You can place the tube under the saddle so that the logos are visible out and in that respect depending on a manufacturer your folding technique may be adjusted keeping the principles in mind.

    Ha! Do you realize how this will take Frank’s growing obsession with sew-ups to another level? He will be locked in the bathroom compulsively folding tyres. “Frank, dear, what are you doing in there…Frank?”

    Also, I have but one question for you, Mr Tommy Tubolare. Are you going to join us in Belgium in late March? With your Bora wheels and deep knowledge of tyres, Frank will follow you around like a puppy, buying you beers and frites, asking ever more tyre questions. Oh yes.

  16. The Vittoria Paves are sat on my desk heralding a new era in which I won’t have to worry about how to fit spare tubes in my pockets along with all the other accoutrements of the ride. Disturbingly, I quite like the smell and I’ve not even got the glue out.

    That green is going to clash slightly with my white and red bike! Rule #8 conformance is going to be a bit of a issue or is there a dispensation for tyres purchased for a specific use and the colour options are limited? A quick bit of N+1 to get a more suitable frame colour is not on the cards!

  17. My new Pave Clinchers arrived today – unnecessarily presented in front of my coral reef tank….

  18. I have a pair of Ambrosio Crono rims going spare, anyone want me to bring them to Belgium?

  19. @Marko

    will try, but I have been notoriously unreliable in achieving anything over the last 18 months

  20. @Jarvis
    How different are the Crono rims from the Nemeses(sp?)?

    I was thinking about building a pair (or having a pair built) for a cross bike project …

  21. @Nate
    Without a doubt. And they HAVE to be the green ones. Yes, they come in Rule #8 compliant black but that’s like buying a Bianchi in anything other than Celeste. They are the Ronde tire of choice.

  22. @Oli

    @ChrisEight speed freehubs are fine with ten speed cassettes.

    Just saw this.

    So my 1992 Mavic Open CD4 rims with Dura ace 8 speed hubs would work with a current day dura ace 10 speed cassette? I had no idea that one could do that.

    They are 36 spoke and super strong, just a bit old. Might be a spare set of wheels for my P-R ride this June.

  23. @Mikel Pearce
    That depends who’s gonna build them and how you gonna build them.
    If you’re looking for a strong,durable wheelset for years to come I’d go with Nemesis rim each time.Crono F20 rims are lighter and more flexy.They also have thinner walls.I remember though that older models of Crono were a bit heavier and stronger.I think it’s got to do with thickness of the rim walls.Modern models seem to be thinner.
    Nemesis rims are definitely stronger and can take a higher spoke tension.If you want a ‘do it once do it well’ wheelset I’d recommend Nemesis.

  24. @Gianni
    Sounds fucking delicious! Any chances of including the mayo?

    Honestly though to meet you personally would be awesome,especially with your sense of humour however at the moment it looks very unlikely for me to be there.
    As for Frank and his tubbies I’d only add that life’s too damn short to ride anything else.
    Now tell me did he really convert one of his bathrooms to a tubulars cellar?

  25. @Mikel Pearce the Crono’s are light, light, light. I’ve seen it recommended that they are only suitable for riders weighing less than 80kg. I’m over 80kg and have raced on Crono’s. Not sure I’d want to be riding cross on them though

  26. Odd anecdote to add wrt Pave’s. I ordered a few pairs of Pave tubulars and received 4 tracking numbers.
    Each tub came in it’s own box, which was large enough to fit all 4 w/o issue.
    Inefficient, or reverence?

  27. @Gianni

    @TommyTubolare

    @Buck Rogers
    Hey Buck!
    Finally got some photos for you.I carry a spare in my jersey pocket and I fold it just like in a photo below.It’s an easy method and you can fold a tubular really small especially if not pre glued

    Back in the days though when carrying a spare under the saddle folding method was a bit different.
    Begin with letting the air completely out of the tubie and lay it flat down with inside edges touching each other

    Now fold it up to the valve but stop short.It’s easier with a short valve so you can remove valve extender and carry it separate.The pre glued base tape should be pressed against the pre glued base tape leaving the outer tire thread free from glue contact

    Now fold under 1/3 of the length from the bottom and one more fold to the top

    Now you can secure a folded tubular tight with a toe strap and install it under your saddle.That’s the other side of the folded tube

    By the way I used rubber bands to help me make photos and you don’t need them while folding.In both methods the idea is the same to have pre glued part against pre glued part.In case of a new spare tubular base tape against base tape.Also when properly folded the valve should have no stresses on it.Valve should be sheltered by tire folds.
    You can place the tube under the saddle so that the logos are visible out and in that respect depending on a manufacturer your folding technique may be adjusted keeping the principles in mind.

    Ha! Do you realize how this will take Frank’s growing obsession with sew-ups to another level? He will be locked in the bathroom compulsively folding tyres. “Frank, dear, what are you doing in there…Frank?”

    Instead of “it uses the lotion or it gets the hose”, Frank will be chanting, “it folds to the base or it tears the tape…”

  28. @Marko

    @Dr C
    Sweet, mine arrived a week or so ago. They are fabulous. Are those the 24″²s?

    They are indeed – which seems a bit of a retrograde, given I was going to get Conti 28’s for max air volume at one stage – that said, I also need to keep up with you studs between the hallowed sections

    I was watching an old YT of the Paris Roubaix the other night – 1086 I believe – classic – there was section in the Trench where the right hand side of the road was missing for about 4 feet – a bunch of 4 in a break approached it at speed, and bunny hopped it like it wasn’t there, followed by the support car which promptly fell into it and crashed…. I think 24 vs 28 argument is irrelevant in such circumstances

  29. @Chris

    @Mikel Pearce
    We need to set up a Velominati procurement network.

    It’s on the roadmap. Also a book sharing network for The Works.

  30. I am having trouble convincing the wife that I need a set of Paves after I had to get a set of Corsa Evo Open in 700×25 for the Merckx. She thinks that one set of $100 tires is enough.

  31. @brett
    Nice, my new (to me Nemesis/Dura-ace wheels have arrived are sat under my desk. Can’t wait to get them on the bike.

    My Paves are a slightly older model, I think, with a black centre strip and green side tread. I doubt it’ll help them stay clean though.

  32. Ahh yes, the cobbled configuration. When I get my ass handed to me in Belgium at least my bike will look cool.

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